This is a strange problem that actually started today when I got home. When I press the clutch inwards and hold it to the floor, I hear a rattling noise coming from the clutch/tranny area. If I take my foot off of the clutch pedal the noise goes away, which leads me to believe something clutch related is wrong.

I never heard the noise before, today is the first day I hear it. After searching I found out that it could be either a bad pilot bearing or a clutch release bearing. This sucks, but it couldn't have happened at a better time, because i'm starting my vacuum hose job tomorrow and the car will be down maby a couple of weeks. Anybody have an idea of what I should be looking to replace here?

 

you are guided in the exactly correct direction. either pilot or throw out bearing.

My pilot bearing killed me for about a year. it started making weird sounds whenever the clutch was in. Finally it popped and seized my tranny and my engine together. that sucked. countless hours trying to pry them apart.

my throw out bearing also started to die and makes a smooth rattle sound as the ball bearings strive to do their job.

 

At least now I know what the problem could be. I also found the Pilot bearing is only $10 from Mazda, so Im gonna do that and the rear main seal as well while im there. Does anybody have any links to a "How To" for replacing the throw out bearing and what tools i'll need?

 

Hey Ernesto might as well replace them both while you're in there

Good luck with everything

 

Pull your engine and fix everything. Seriously! It will make your vauum hose job replacement easier also from your other thread.

 

Change your clutch fork aswell, Mine went back together and 2 weeks later, snap there goes the clutch fork , Box out again. Rix

 

i have a video or two on pilot bearing stuff on my youtube channel should be a link in my sig. Remember to install the pilot bearing, grease it up, then install the pilot bearing seal. PM me for details. The seal seems easier to install on the transmission shaft instead of putting it in the engine side with the bearing.

 

easier said that done but i agree with (t-von).. some times taking the extra mile pays off much better at the end.

 

The biggest question I have is how do I actually remove the transmission to get to these parts? I know I need a jack because im familiar with jacking the tranny up ( I had to do that during my oil pan gasket repair) If anybody has done this before, just wondering, if theres a step by step guide on what to do. BTW thanks rdahm for that video, its a lot of help

 

I've thinking long and hard about replacing the clutch while im there, because this is gonna be a LOT of work. Is it possible to replace the clutch with an aftermarket OEM replacement like the stage 1 Exedy and use the factory pressure plate, or do I need to buy the whole kit?

 

You don't "need" to buy the whole kit. However, most of the clutch kits out there which are "Stage I" or something similar, are basically upgraded Pressure Plates with OEM clutch discs. The main benefits from a clutch upgrade comes from the Pressure Plate, not necessarily from the clutch disc itself.

 

I just received the Exedy clutch OEM organic clutch kit today, and I read that it says, that the flywheel must be resurfaced prior to installation, is that true?

 

Ok, im finishing up soon on a vacuum hose job, and I was wondering does anything under the hood need to be removed in order to remove the transmission to perform the clutch job? I ask because I would like to finish everything 100% under the hood before I start the clutch

 

Not necessarily. However, depending on the tools you have available it's sometimes easier to get to the top tranny bolts without the UIM in place.

 

+1 In the beginning i would take off the UIM but then a friend here on the forums lent me a tool that allowed me to reach the bolts on top of the bell housing. It's a tight fit, but a long 14mm (IIRC) wrench can get in there. sockets might have a really hard time fitting.

I would recommend like someone (else did) replacing the clutch fork as well because the vibrating in my pedal went for about a week and then the fork snapped.