ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

please note that I have done quite a bit of searching, I can't seem to find the answer(s) I'm looking for. I've looked through 25 other threads so hopefully I've done my due diligence in searching.

Weather is starting to improve, so soon I'll start working on the car, and one of my to-do's is removing the rats nest. I am planning on keeping the sequential system. My biggest concern is to start doing the job, get in the middle of it, and not have a part needed to finish. If someone could verify I have everything needed, I would appreciate it.

Parts I already have or are on the way:
Block-off plates
RTV silicone (black)
Pineapple air-pump pulley kit
Vacuum caps from Mcmaster-Carr
Zip-ties
Boost Controller (not necesarry for this job itself)
Stock vacuum diagram and simple sequential diagram for referencing

Relevant info:
Silicone hose already installed by previous owner
PowerFC already installed by previous owner (I don't need resistors)

Did I miss anything? Do I need to have extra silicone hose for anything? I know the job is to remove a lot of hose, but I haven't found anyone directly mention if a longer length hose is needed to connect something after removing the middle-man (rats nest). Should I replace anything else while I'm at it?

Thank you

zeroG

iTrader: (28)

If you're doing a simple sequential, I highly suggest you just leave the rats nest in place. I did mine and used the same stock tubing following the diagrams. You just remove the solenoids you don't need and that's it.

For me at least it would've been a real pain and taken a much longer time to remove the rats nest itself. Then on top of that you have to figure how and where you're going to mount the solenoids that are still going to be used. But if you have the time and want to make it look cleaner then by all means go for it.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

I removed all the hard pipes except the long vertical ones that go to the turbo control/wastegate/prespool actuators. It wasn't easy, but it forced me to become more familiar with how the system worked. I spent quite a bit of time tracing out the vacuum diagrams, and eventually made a new chart showing where each port on each solenoid connects to.

I didn't keep close track of how much vacuum line was used, but I did use at least a few vacuum T's. I got them from McMaster-Carr, and can probably dig through old emails and look up the part number if that helps. I also picked up a few spare hose clamps to hold the hoses that will see boost pressure (Mazda PN 9928-30-800 , they were pretty inexpensive).

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

If your in that deep, consider replacing your soft fuel lines, FPD (or delete it). If your plugs wires are getting older, it's easy to change them at the coil end and replace the coil harness.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^+1

Also maybe a UIM to LIM gasket. It is less than $11.00 from Malloy

John

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

I'll look into replacing the fuel lines and doing something with the FPD.

I replaced the wires/plugs last fall.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

My rebuild has ~12,000 miles on it now. I would hope that they used a new gasket when they rebuilt it (well known shop did the work, and I can check the invoice tonight), but when I pulled the uim last fall to change the wires and install a new coil, it looked like it was in great shape. Are these not reusable?

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^I have had my UIM off many times and it did not leak. So I would say they are reusable. I did not know that the motor was rebuilt 12,000 miles ago. It was just a suggestion.



John

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

no worries, I would rather ask and look dumb than assume and do it wrong.

Thank you.