I searched and searched but I can't find any rats nest removal walk throughs for an FD. I'm starting to think it's not possible? But I've heard of it being done. Please help.

 

Why do you want to remove it? What are you planning on running?

 

just get in there and start taking it apart. Really no walkthrough needed if you have half a brain and are mechanically inclined.

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/block%20plates.htm

 

http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/gt35rpage3.htm

and do a search for non seq turbos and emissions removal, thats pretty much all the rats nest is

 

I posed a similar question last spring:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/removing-rats-nest-fd-831971/

Make sure you triple check the connections when you hook everything back up, two crossed hoses can lead to boost issues.

 

Thanks guys. I'm just trying to get rid of the crap I don't need. The car runs in limp mode and I think it might have something to do with a vacuum leak. The car has ran like this since I picked it up and every single hose had been replaced with bullshit hoses. I think someone may have crossed something somewhere.

 

also while I'm in there, how do I convert to true twin?

 

I've said this before to other folks and it appears that it needs to be said again here.

You need to get your car running correctly before removing anything. Please don't take this as an offense but it appears that you need to know your car better. Removing things isn't gonna help you because 1) you don't know what the true problem is and 2) haven't done any initial research on what you're asking.

Anytime someone asks how to convert something hasn't done any searching b/c these sorts of questions have been addressed about a million times over.

 

Yes - those Mazda engineers had noting better to do than to add useless **** to your car just to amuse themselves. It is amazing that an RX-7 does not weight 4000lbs given all the 'crap' they added unnecessarily.

Why not diagnose the problem correctly rather than screwing with **** you don't even understand?

 

+1 <3

 

Well like i said before, someone went through and replaced all the vacuum lines. Now the car runs in limp mode. So I'm trying to go through and get rid of something the car does not need and hopefully figure out why the car doesn't run properly. I'm thinking it has something to do with the vacuum. I think someone crossed some lines somewhere. What does it matter what I do to my car anyway? I'm asking for help from people who know better than me. I'm trying to learn.

 

If the car is in limp mode the ECU is detecting something wrong. Check for codes in the ECU and your answer is likely to be in there. If you go ripping things out without knowing why I'm sure you'll make it worse.

David

 

http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

be sure to read up on things on that site if you have not browsed around already.

The link has a quick method for checking engine codes.

 

I appreciate the advice guys. I was told it's probably not the ecu but I'll check it out. I don't think it's throwing codes though. The car is a failure. I've had it for almost a year and it's never ran properly.

 

i agree with the aforementioned dont start taking stuff off to try and fix a problem, fix it then remove it because what happens when that isnt the issue? now you could have messed something else up and your car wont start.

 

If it's in limp mode as you say it's probably throwing a code. In my experience there is always throwing a related code or else it's not actually limp mode.

Dave

 

We're not saying its the ECU, we are telling you that you might be able to use the ECU to diagnose your problem.

 

O M G @ _ @


If this person knows more about RX7s than this community does then you need to just have that person fix your car.

 

Are there no decent rotary shops within 200 miles that you can bring it to

 

It's impossible...

 

omg saved^

 

Who replaced your vac hoses? Replacing the vac hoses requires removing a lot of stuff to even get TO them, lots of opportunity to screw something up or leave something disconnected. Did the problem exist before or after the "vac hose replacement".

You can't troubleshoot through opinion on whats bad, if that worked no one would ever have a problem.

Removing stuff isn't going to help you. Download the COLOR stock vac hose diagram and compare it to what you have.

Asking questions like how to convert to true twin makes no sense because these cars were true twin from the factory. Do you mean going non-sequential?

You have 15+ years of highly experienced history on this forum, regardless of what your problems are (and it sounds like you have multiple issues) the info is here if you put the time in to research the issues and learn the car. You can't fix what you don't understand, and I don't mean that in a deragatory way. Everyone here had to put the effort in to learn the car, I've had mine for years and it still makes me want smash stuff sometimes

 

because sometimes simplifying your setup will fix your problem.

it all depends on what your long-term goals are...

 

I would recommend you start searching the forums on how to do a vacuum hose job. I just finished a vacuum hose job myself for the first time and it was tough ill admit. As long as you feel confident in your mechanical abilities you can do it all yourself. Just start taking things apart that really is how you do it. Just take LOTS and LOTS of pictures though, that helps a lot. If you need any help, pm me

This may help you https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/im-ready-do-full-vacuum-hose-job-need-pointers-868621/

 

so.. can you guys not answer the question? i was helping him work on the car. we figure that its either the oil metering pump or the map sensor. we are just removing the rats nest really just to eliminate it. i couldnt find a write up for it anywhere.. i found a write up for an fc rats nest removal but somehow that disappeared from my favorite. and 200 miles seems like a pretty good distance to tow a car that we have no way of towing? the closest rotary shop is about 20-30 miles away.. even thats quite a distance just to tow the damn thing and then to pay them while working on a tight budget? could you not just answer the question at hand? damn..