Racing Beat thermal pellet installation.
#1
Racing Beat thermal pellet installation.
I have been searching the racing beat thermal pellet installation and i have read a bunch of information but is mostly questions and engine rebuild threads it does not explain the process of removing the stock pellet and installing the racing beat. any information will be appreciated.
#2
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
is the motor installed in the car?
19mm impact, blast off the main crank bolt. Be careful to hold/push back on the pulley/hub assembly so that it doesnt move forward, this can cause the needle bearing in the rear of the stack to slip behind the spacer and get destroyed. not likely to happen, but if it does you are F'ed.
remove the stock brass-colored spring-loaded thermal mechanism and install the RB unit.....oem spring goes in first, then the thermal pellet. The longer thinner end points outward, towards the main crank bolt.
apply lock tite to the threads of the bolt and sealant around the backside of the base. Blast it back on with the gun on full power
19mm impact, blast off the main crank bolt. Be careful to hold/push back on the pulley/hub assembly so that it doesnt move forward, this can cause the needle bearing in the rear of the stack to slip behind the spacer and get destroyed. not likely to happen, but if it does you are F'ed.
remove the stock brass-colored spring-loaded thermal mechanism and install the RB unit.....oem spring goes in first, then the thermal pellet. The longer thinner end points outward, towards the main crank bolt.
apply lock tite to the threads of the bolt and sealant around the backside of the base. Blast it back on with the gun on full power
#3
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
You might be able to use one of the inspection holes in the bellhousing to wedge a piece of wood between the flywheel and engine block. That would make god-damn sure the rotating assembly doesn't move foward.
You'll also likely need a big impact, especially if that bolt has never been disturbed from the factory. Mine took quite a bit to break loose.
You'll also likely need a big impact, especially if that bolt has never been disturbed from the factory. Mine took quite a bit to break loose.
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
You might be able to use one of the inspection holes in the bellhousing to wedge a piece of wood between the flywheel and engine block. That would make god-damn sure the rotating assembly doesn't move foward.
You'll also likely need a big impact, especially if that bolt has never been disturbed from the factory. Mine took quite a bit to break loose.
You'll also likely need a big impact, especially if that bolt has never been disturbed from the factory. Mine took quite a bit to break loose.
=Ben
#5
from what you guys are saying its not as easy as i though. I will leave it alone until winter.I will probably pull my engine out to fix my oil pan leak and maybe do a rebuild although my engine`s compression is 100psi on each rotor.thanks for the info.