race gas with no tune??
#1
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race gas with no tune??
is it ok to add race gas for the drag strip. As everyone knows Im new here. With that said, is it ok to put like 110 octane gas in the FD? I know these cars a tempermental to things and was just wondering if this was one of those things? Thanks.
#2
i'm pretty sure yuo can always go with a higher octane... its the lower than tuned for stuff that causes the real issues. what are you hoping to get out of higher octane gas though if you aren't tuning for it? the car isn't going to run that much differently... if at all.
stay tuned to this thread for my shaming by people who know much more than i do though
stay tuned to this thread for my shaming by people who know much more than i do though
#3
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well it will be my first time at the track (with the rx7) and in my other car, it just always seemed to run a little stronger. (plus I was sprayn a 100 shot on the car)
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If I remember you were having trouble with boost spike before, did you ever get that fixed? I would be very weary to take any car to the track that isn't running 100%. But hey, its your car.
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no I had been trying to research getting a mid pipe in which everyone was telling be about boost spike and boost creep. when I get on it it "spikes" to 11.x and faster than you can blink goes and hold 10.x
#7
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Race gas will give you a little more power, but dont expect miracles. Increased octane does give a few extra HP, but for the price of a tank of race gas its not a "must have"
The guy above is correct, you will cook your cat. But to be honest why have a cat if your going to race it ? I assume you are going to run the 1/4 mile ?
If you post like this you may get flamed, next time try and give up some more info. Like what is the set up, bone stock ? running the stock ecu ?
Things to not do... Dont let that thing overheat , make sure cooling isnt a problem. You may be wating in line to race, overheating in line is embarssing. And with a FD its terminal most times.
I wonder how many miles are on your core and the condition of the turbos. If that car isnt 100% dont race it ! Good luck and post your times if everyhting work out .
Midpipe ,all you need then is a boost controler. You can boost a few more pounds on the stock twins, but like I said it depends on the condition of your car. If you looking for power, you know its a serise of mods that get you performance and saftey.
Catback- Midpipe-boost controler-resionated midpipe- larger secondary injectors- a diffrent ecu (Apexi PFC) , a good tune and your safe.
The guy above is correct, you will cook your cat. But to be honest why have a cat if your going to race it ? I assume you are going to run the 1/4 mile ?
If you post like this you may get flamed, next time try and give up some more info. Like what is the set up, bone stock ? running the stock ecu ?
Things to not do... Dont let that thing overheat , make sure cooling isnt a problem. You may be wating in line to race, overheating in line is embarssing. And with a FD its terminal most times.
I wonder how many miles are on your core and the condition of the turbos. If that car isnt 100% dont race it ! Good luck and post your times if everyhting work out .
Midpipe ,all you need then is a boost controler. You can boost a few more pounds on the stock twins, but like I said it depends on the condition of your car. If you looking for power, you know its a serise of mods that get you performance and saftey.
Catback- Midpipe-boost controler-resionated midpipe- larger secondary injectors- a diffrent ecu (Apexi PFC) , a good tune and your safe.
Last edited by Nuvolari; 05-17-06 at 11:46 AM.
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mods:
-Brand new (not rebuilt) transmission from Mazda, added B&M shortshifter with MOMO ****.
-Brand new 99 Spec Turbos from Rotary Performance
-ECU upgraded with fully programmable Apex'i PFC
-Suspension - Koni Yellow adjustable shocks, w/ Eibach springs, and RE rear toe-links
-Exhaust - M2 Downpipe and Racing Beat Single Tip Cat-Back exhaust.
-Intake - HKS Racing Suction
-Cooling - Koyo Aluminum Radiator w/ aluminum AST new coolant lines.
-Intercooler - Greddy 2 Row Front Mount w/ Greddy Elbow and J-Spec Y pipe
-Greddy Spec II Boost Controller.
-Greddy pulley kit.
-Brand new (not rebuilt) transmission from Mazda, added B&M shortshifter with MOMO ****.
-Brand new 99 Spec Turbos from Rotary Performance
-ECU upgraded with fully programmable Apex'i PFC
-Suspension - Koni Yellow adjustable shocks, w/ Eibach springs, and RE rear toe-links
-Exhaust - M2 Downpipe and Racing Beat Single Tip Cat-Back exhaust.
-Intake - HKS Racing Suction
-Cooling - Koyo Aluminum Radiator w/ aluminum AST new coolant lines.
-Intercooler - Greddy 2 Row Front Mount w/ Greddy Elbow and J-Spec Y pipe
-Greddy Spec II Boost Controller.
-Greddy pulley kit.
#9
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Sweet choices on equipment! My prior set up was close to this and at 13psi I put down 325rwhp on a street ported core. It ran mid 12's on street tires. Make sure you get a better clutch soon, if you havnet already. If your close to the mid 300 hp range that car must be a ton of fun.
Did you think of having it tuned on race gas ? One good thing about running on race gas , it will give you a little extra saftey on you motor.
Have fun at the track, drive it like you stole it and get in the 11's !
Did you think of having it tuned on race gas ? One good thing about running on race gas , it will give you a little extra saftey on you motor.
Have fun at the track, drive it like you stole it and get in the 11's !
#10
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Here's the question:
You say it's not fully tuned. What does that mean exactly? Fully tuned for the boost level you see during the spike, or not fully tuned for your mods as a whole?
Lets say you're getting boost spikes at 2psi more than your tuned boost level. Running a higher octane gas will not fix the problem of lean AFRs, but it will be less likely to detonate when you're running a little lean. 100octane race gas won't save you from detonation if your tuning and boost spike push your afrs to 15:1, but it will help if the spike causes a momentary 13:1 ratio when it should be 11:1. (I'm making up numbers, but you see the point - if you're tuned at 11:1 with 10psi, and you get a 14psi spike, you're going to be way lean and dangerous no matter what fuel you have).
In either case, your power output will be the same. Power depends almost entirely on tuning and boost levels, not the fuel. The fuel mostly determines the margin against detonation.
Dave
You say it's not fully tuned. What does that mean exactly? Fully tuned for the boost level you see during the spike, or not fully tuned for your mods as a whole?
Lets say you're getting boost spikes at 2psi more than your tuned boost level. Running a higher octane gas will not fix the problem of lean AFRs, but it will be less likely to detonate when you're running a little lean. 100octane race gas won't save you from detonation if your tuning and boost spike push your afrs to 15:1, but it will help if the spike causes a momentary 13:1 ratio when it should be 11:1. (I'm making up numbers, but you see the point - if you're tuned at 11:1 with 10psi, and you get a 14psi spike, you're going to be way lean and dangerous no matter what fuel you have).
In either case, your power output will be the same. Power depends almost entirely on tuning and boost levels, not the fuel. The fuel mostly determines the margin against detonation.
Dave
#11
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Your car may run worse on race gas. Race gas burns slower and will cause stumbling if you are not tuned for it. Run what you tuned on. There is no reason not to use 92 or 93 octane if you are running the stock ecu.
Only leaded race gas will foul your cat and o2 sensor. 110 unleaded is fine.
Only leaded race gas will foul your cat and o2 sensor. 110 unleaded is fine.
#12
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Originally Posted by Nuvolari
Midpipe ,all you need then is a boost controler.......Catback- Midpipe-boost controler-resionated midpipe- larger secondary injectors- a diffrent ecu (Apexi PFC) , a good tune and your safe.
#15
Originally Posted by tcb100
Your car may run worse on race gas. Race gas burns slower and will cause stumbling if you are not tuned for it. Run what you tuned on. There is no reason not to use 92 or 93 octane if you are running the stock ecu.
Only leaded race gas will foul your cat and o2 sensor. 110 unleaded is fine.
Only leaded race gas will foul your cat and o2 sensor. 110 unleaded is fine.
Burning characteristics of race gas are quite different than normal octane gas. You can actually LOSE power by running race gas and not tuning for it (namely changing your timing). BUT, as Dave mentioned, it may give you a slight safety margin (which is why most ppl run race gas on a dyno when pushing 15psi or more).
As for the cat, it depends. While most race fuels are leaded (hence byebye O2 sensor and cat), a few are unleaded, like Sunoco 100. That *should* be perfectly fine and safe for your O2 sensor and cat (if I'm wrong, plz correct me).
~Ramy
Last edited by FDNewbie; 05-17-06 at 03:23 PM.
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