R1 strut bar install
06-05-13, 07:58 PM
#1
R1 strut bar install
I just got finished installing a adjustable R1 strut bar on my 1993 RX-7 and had a few questions.
How important are the torque settings? Does the bar actually have stress/pressure applied to it during hard driving or is it more for looks?
The reason I ask, is that I found the page about installing the strut bar in the factory service manual, and I torqued the strut plates to the mounts (Two nuts per mount) at between 34-46 lb/ft (Per FSM), but when I went to torque the bolts that connect the strut plates to the bar at 24-33 lb/ft (Per FSM). both the bolts stripped and I had to buy close replacements at the hardware store. The original bolts are definitely not stainless steel! When I put in the replacements I just went "Hand tight".
Finally the FSM called for torqueing "Joint B" to 3.5-5.2 in/lbf and the "Locknut" to 87-121 in/lbf. I don't even know what tool I would need for this so I just hand tightened them as well.
Just wanted to see what other had done to install this bar.
This link shows the page from the FSM:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...r1-car-555327/
Thanks,
Drew
How important are the torque settings? Does the bar actually have stress/pressure applied to it during hard driving or is it more for looks?
The reason I ask, is that I found the page about installing the strut bar in the factory service manual, and I torqued the strut plates to the mounts (Two nuts per mount) at between 34-46 lb/ft (Per FSM), but when I went to torque the bolts that connect the strut plates to the bar at 24-33 lb/ft (Per FSM). both the bolts stripped and I had to buy close replacements at the hardware store. The original bolts are definitely not stainless steel! When I put in the replacements I just went "Hand tight".
Finally the FSM called for torqueing "Joint B" to 3.5-5.2 in/lbf and the "Locknut" to 87-121 in/lbf. I don't even know what tool I would need for this so I just hand tightened them as well.
Just wanted to see what other had done to install this bar.
This link shows the page from the FSM:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...r1-car-555327/
Thanks,
Drew
Last edited by SoundwaveFD; 06-05-13 at 08:27 PM.
06-05-13, 08:30 PM
#2
The exact torque settings are not super critical. It does need t be held in place firmly. Hand tight is not tight enough.
The bar is certainly functional. It solidifies the front end. It makes the car handle better. I noticed the difference immediately after installation.
The bar is certainly functional. It solidifies the front end. It makes the car handle better. I noticed the difference immediately after installation.
06-05-13, 08:37 PM
#3
^Agree...on everything. Just tighten until you're confident it won't loosen on it's own. Can't explain why those stripped out. I've never had an issue with mine. The 'R' models came with them, so I've never driven without, but I do think it's a worthwhile addition.
06-05-13, 08:40 PM
#4
tard of teh century
It definitely ends up with forces on it but if you're not tightening the bolts enough you should find out because they'll come loose. There shouldn't be any catastrophic failure from it as lots of car don't have the strut bar and get along fine.
If you managed to strip out those threads with those torque values then the bolts or nuts were probably damaged. It's pretty easy to damage bolts in that situation because there'll be pressure on the threads from the bar and people will hammer out the bolt or hit it out and it'll destroy the threads. Another thing to never do is if you take the nut off and you find you still are turning the bolt to get it out as if the center section was threaded, that's another sign you're putting pressure on the threads where you shouldn't be.
Stainless bolts aren't very strong, they're generally weaker than the bolts the oem will be using.
For torqueing the Joint B and Locknut nuts you just need to put a crows foot socket on the torque wrench. As long as you put the crows foot at a 90 degree to the torque wrench it won't change the level arm enough to matter.
If you managed to strip out those threads with those torque values then the bolts or nuts were probably damaged. It's pretty easy to damage bolts in that situation because there'll be pressure on the threads from the bar and people will hammer out the bolt or hit it out and it'll destroy the threads. Another thing to never do is if you take the nut off and you find you still are turning the bolt to get it out as if the center section was threaded, that's another sign you're putting pressure on the threads where you shouldn't be.
Stainless bolts aren't very strong, they're generally weaker than the bolts the oem will be using.
For torqueing the Joint B and Locknut nuts you just need to put a crows foot socket on the torque wrench. As long as you put the crows foot at a 90 degree to the torque wrench it won't change the level arm enough to matter.
06-05-13, 09:39 PM
#5
You want the two (3) bolts that secure it to the strut tower on each side to be solidly hand tight (give it a good push with the wrench). Those also secure the shocks to the car!
You'll note the joint in the strut bar itself has a super light torque spec (it's in inch pounds), so it really just needs yo be a snug fit when you drop it on to the strut towers.
You'll note the joint in the strut bar itself has a super light torque spec (it's in inch pounds), so it really just needs yo be a snug fit when you drop it on to the strut towers.
06-06-13, 08:06 AM
#7
I do have the strut bar in there very securely. There is no movement at all even if you pull hard on it. The strut plates are bolted to the towers with FSM recommended pressures and I believe that that is the most important part to torque correctly and firmly.
But, I tightened the bolts that secure the strut plates to the bar just by feel alone (Firmly), so hopefully that will suffice?
What is weird, is that I do not believe the original bolts were damaged before I tried to torque them to factory specs. The material the bolts are made of feels very lightweight like Aluminum (Especially compared to the stainless ones I bought), and I do not believe that they really needed or could handle the 24-33 lbs the FSM recommends.
Do you guys feel it is really necessary to get a crows foot socket to adjust joint B and the locknut? I might just do what ptrhahn suggested and make sure they just fit snugly because I don't even have anything to measure something as small as in/ft.
What is really weird is that the FSM says to tighten Joint B first, followed by the locknut. That does not make sense at all because Joint B sits to the right of the locknut.
I may be overthinking this as I feel that the bar is mounted very securely. My only concern is that by not tightening everything to spec that I might be putting undue stress on the bar or transferring stress to areas of the suspension that would not be good for the car. I do not know too much about suspension so maybe I am way of the mark here.
I appreciate all the replies and suggestions, thanks!
But, I tightened the bolts that secure the strut plates to the bar just by feel alone (Firmly), so hopefully that will suffice?
What is weird, is that I do not believe the original bolts were damaged before I tried to torque them to factory specs. The material the bolts are made of feels very lightweight like Aluminum (Especially compared to the stainless ones I bought), and I do not believe that they really needed or could handle the 24-33 lbs the FSM recommends.
Do you guys feel it is really necessary to get a crows foot socket to adjust joint B and the locknut? I might just do what ptrhahn suggested and make sure they just fit snugly because I don't even have anything to measure something as small as in/ft.
What is really weird is that the FSM says to tighten Joint B first, followed by the locknut. That does not make sense at all because Joint B sits to the right of the locknut.
I may be overthinking this as I feel that the bar is mounted very securely. My only concern is that by not tightening everything to spec that I might be putting undue stress on the bar or transferring stress to areas of the suspension that would not be good for the car. I do not know too much about suspension so maybe I am way of the mark here.
I appreciate all the replies and suggestions, thanks!