rhd93fd

Sorry for the stupid question guys, but ive done alot of searching (may have missed it) but i was reading up trying to find out what synthetic is best and what additive. From what i saw people have been saying royal purple has worked great for them. But saw no specific weight... Also i have been reading up on additives and amounts of additives, but not sure what people use. Just looking for a quick answer on both.

Thank you for the help

and again....sorry for being a noob

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/you-need-know-about-reformulated-oil-revisited-again-july-08-a-770726/

rhd93fd

so it looks like mobile 1 non- synthetic and the gm additive? is that correct? Im very sorry guys just want to be very clear on this seeing as it is my first rotary. and just another question 4oz of additive is the normal amount correct?

bajaman

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...partnumber=EOS

Is THIS the additive?

rhd93fd

i guess my next stupid question is, does he use that as an oil additive or a fuel additive?

mrgne

iTrader: (6)

oil additive

rhd93fd

i'll have to find something else to run, because that is no longer available. There is a replacement but i was told that it is different

masa_3100

iTrader: (1)

I use Royal Purple 20w50 and its great! I just bought a FC recently too and i did tons of research to prevent jacking up my first car (yes my first car is a rotary!) and royal purple seemed to be the best choice and simplest choice, no mixing and what not, just pour it in and have fun! I did my oil change with the stuff and i did notice that my engine seems to run more smoothly and doesnt stutter anymore when i let go of the gas. I dont know if its me but I think if feels better on acceleration too(more powerful and responsive) but then again the old oil in it was CRAP! Came out of my car pitch black! So anyway I use Royal Purple and its been great to me. I live in CA so the weather never goes even near 0 celcius so I use that oil weight.

bajaman

I have seriously been thinking of switching over to Royal Purple. It is much more widely available now...even friggin' WAL-MART has it here!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If this is your first rotary you have much more important things to worry about than synthetic oil and oil additives.

Use 10w-30 or maybe a grade thicker and change it every 3k or less. No additives required, and if you want to go synthetic that's optional. These engines don't have oil problems. Royal Purple, Mobil1, Castrol GTX, Amsoil, etc, etc all have their users. Whatever oil you choose make sure that any money spent on fancy oil is not taken away from more important things in maintaining your FD.

The place to add additives is in the fuel - consider using a premix oil in your gas that will lubricate the combustion chamber where the engine oil doesn't lubricate as well.

David

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Dave is dead on. Of the 15+ years I've been working on RX-7's, I've yet to see an engine that failed or had damage from running the wrong oil, or even an oil-related failure.

I've run Castrol GTX 10w30 and 20w50 for years with no problems. Pettit recommends Valvoline Racing 20w50, a good non-synthetic, for better turbo bearing life. I've been running that as of late, but nothing exciting to report.

You're not going to get something great by running a special oil in the car. There might be minor differences in horsepower one way or the other, but big deal, a cold day will make more of a difference. If you're seriously racing the car, that could be another story.

Biggie is doing an oil change every 3000 miles. Rotaries do dilute the oil with gas, and regular oil changes are a solid idea.

Dale

no_more_rice

Most people run 15w-40 (something like Shell Rotella) or 20w-50. Why? Fuel dilution generally ranges from 5-10% within 2,000 miles and resultant thinning effects necessitate use of heavier oils. See my UOA thread, it's been proven the oil typically loses a viscosity grade.

rhd93fd

ok, my car is mostly stock and will be mostly street driven and some road racing. So 20w50 is cool to run? no additive needed?

thanks for all the help guys

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I run Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w 30... and yes, I still have my OMP. Change it every 2k miles.

Julian

iTrader: (14)

Am I the only one that has moved to 0W-40 (M1)?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I've considered it. The reasons I'm myself am not fully invested in it are:
- 0w-40 uses substantial viscosity index improvers to achieve it's VI, meaning as the oil breaks down it approaches a 0w-20-like weight more quickly
- It's not available in 5qt jugs at wallyworld
- The FD does not seem to need the wide VI.

But for all intents and purposes it's a really interesting product.

Dave

sevensheaven

iTrader: (1)

+1 Royal Purple, not for the engine, but for the turbo's.

adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

I use Castrol GTX 10w-30 and change it every 1000 miles. Idemitsu premix 4 oz. to every full tank. If there were room in the engine bay for tank I would probably switch the OMP over the inject premix.

But as some of the others have said, don't worry too much about buying expensive oil right now. Just get everything as it should be on the car first.

masa_3100

iTrader: (1)

Bump for Royal Purple! \(^~^)/ Me and my other piston heads use it, and we love it!

Julian

iTrader: (14)

Does Mobil 1 0W-40 Make a Turbo Engine Susceptible to Coking?With my previous stock engine '01 Miata I used nothing but Mobil 1 0W-40 with completely satisfactory results on the street and track for over four years. I have recently replaced that car with a very low mileage '04 turbo MAZASPEED Miata and am using the same 0W-40 Mobil 1 oil for street and track. However, I have been strongly advised by seemingly knowledgeable MSM forum gurus that use of an oil with such a wide viscosity range in a turbo powered car makes the turbo bearings subject to coking. I routinely see oil temps of 230°-260°F here in the Arizona desert and would appreciate your technical opinion re the coking issue and whether Mobil 1 0W-40 is the appropriate and best oil for my MSM for street and track combination use in very hot southern Arizona.-- Richard Olsen, Green Valley, AZAnswer: We would recommend you use either Mobil 1 5W-30, which has demonstrated outstanding performance in the HONDA HTO-6 Turbo specification and is recommended for Honda RDX Turbo, or Mobil 1 0W-40. Your friends are correct - wide multigrades can sometimes contribute to deposits. However, in the case of the Mobil 1 formulations, this is not an issue since it is formulated with high Viscosity Index base oils. This means it does not require excessive viscosity modifiers like conventional oils with a wide range viscosities. Secondly, Mobil 1 0W-40 carries all the outstanding qualities of all the other Mobil 1 grades including outstanding turbo performance and high temperature stability.

Sinilluminati

once i put it in my car do i have to stick with it forever or can i change back later if i want

no_more_rice

I'm done using synthetics in this car. It's a complete waste of money because there's no such thing as an extended drain interval in an FD unless you like running thinned out, gas-filled oil for a long time.

Shella Rotella T from Wal-Mart. Dirt cheap and generally good oil.

By contrast, I run Amsoil 10w-30 in the S2000 and it's still pristine after 5,000 miles.

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't run synthetic for the "extended drain interval" Change your oil at every 3k regardless of what the manufacturer advertises and you'll be in good shape. That extended drain crap is for soccer moms and people driving disposable cars.

no_more_rice

Extended drain intervals are fine for engines in good shape and/or non boosted engines that do not contaminate the oil with fuel. I know several S2000 owners who run 8,000-12,000 miles or more on synthetic and all indicators (viscosity, wear metals, TBN, etc) still look good. This is why used oil analysis is critical, if you don't know how contaminated the oil really is (just looking at it doesn't tell you much!), you're guessing on the OCI, and you're probably wasting your money changing it every 3k on anything but a rotary powered FD (which is the worst car for fuel dilution I've ever seen)