Quick Emissions Question
07-10-13, 01:37 AM
#1
Quick Emissions Question
From my understanding, the airpump blows air into the precat/cat to warm it up right? Wouldn't this only assist emissions when the car is cold? If it wasn't on there could the car still pass smog(ignoring the visuals?). The smog place I go to doesn't really know rotary/doesn't care about visuals as long as the car passes. Since the airpump will be out, might as well delete the acv too(that just controls air to airpump right?) I also read while doing the rats nest that the egr doesn't really do anything and even then it's usually clogged or something. Can I also delete that and pass smog? I read that removing these will send codes to the ecu so a resistor would be needed. If I do all of this right, my emissions would suffer but could I still pass smog if visuals were ignored?
edit:
Oh i just remembered that my car had mooing sounds under about 3k rpm... so I guess the airpump works even when the car is warmed up. Would this mean automatica fail without it? Can the airpump still work with the other equipment uninstalled? I guess I wouldn't mind putting things back every 2 years for smog though.
edit:
Oh i just remembered that my car had mooing sounds under about 3k rpm... so I guess the airpump works even when the car is warmed up. Would this mean automatica fail without it? Can the airpump still work with the other equipment uninstalled? I guess I wouldn't mind putting things back every 2 years for smog though.
Last edited by cloudz; 07-10-13 at 01:43 AM.
07-10-13, 01:23 PM
#3
The airpump pumps air into the port tract (exhaust ports) below 3500 rpms when the car is in Vaccuum, this adds air to your emissions before they hit the pre-cat. Below 3500 rpms but when in pressure (read: Boost) the air pump switches to the secondary air tract and pumps air into the main catalytic converter.
Above 3500 rpms the air pump is disengaged.
-Geoff
Above 3500 rpms the air pump is disengaged.
-Geoff
07-10-13, 11:16 PM
#5
You will without a doubt fail the sniffing test if you don't have the airpump.
My car had 70k miles and the airpump went out, tried to pass and failed terribly.
I replaced the airpump and it passed flawlessly, so yea it makes a huge difference.
You don't need EGR as long as the computer doesn't throw a code you should be good, if you have a CA computer though, you will have to either get a non CA ecu or just leave it alone. When I installed AzEKnightz's solenoids I deleted my EGR and passed with pretty good numbers.
My car had 70k miles and the airpump went out, tried to pass and failed terribly.
I replaced the airpump and it passed flawlessly, so yea it makes a huge difference.
You don't need EGR as long as the computer doesn't throw a code you should be good, if you have a CA computer though, you will have to either get a non CA ecu or just leave it alone. When I installed AzEKnightz's solenoids I deleted my EGR and passed with pretty good numbers.
07-15-13, 04:23 PM
#6
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EGR delete requires block off plates which is a fail. You will need a '95 or JDM intake manifold and that's if they ignore the sticker under the hood. You could buy a replacement '95 emissions sticker for that.
I beleive the first part of the test is at idle. So even if the rest of the test is at 3500 and it passes those, it would still be a fail. You should be able to pay for a pre-test, which is testing not sent to DMV. That keeps your car from being flagged as a gross polluter from multiple failures.
I beleive the first part of the test is at idle. So even if the rest of the test is at 3500 and it passes those, it would still be a fail. You should be able to pay for a pre-test, which is testing not sent to DMV. That keeps your car from being flagged as a gross polluter from multiple failures.
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