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Questions before undertaking Turbo rebuild...

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Old 03-11-04, 07:29 PM
  #151  
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Originally posted by aREX4X
I too am rebuilding my turbos this weekend! (unless St. Patty sucks me in first) Thanks for the write-up despite your initial outcome it has still given me enough confidence to do the job. My only problem is I have no before to judge it from, I bought the car and never drove it before I took the whole thing appart.

X...
What's your reason for the rebuild???
Old 03-11-04, 10:50 PM
  #152  
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I hope that I am wrong, but a zero boost problem is probably not due to a wastegate line that popped off. Zero pressure at the wasegate actuator will actually give an overboost situation because the boost is what opens it. I would check to make sure that the pre-spool actuator/door is shut very tight. That is the exact problem I had after I rebuilt my turbos.
Old 03-11-04, 11:44 PM
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Well, I just rebuilded mine. Rebuild wasn't that hard, but getting the damn turbos out was pain in the ***. Those damn things are heavy and there is no room down there to get them out nicely.

About rebuild... I think i did everything as I'm suppose to. The wheels spin freely and there is side to side movement. I also ported my wastegate and made sure all the doors are really closed shut.

The only thing that actually worries me is that damn nut on the wheels. I tighted it by hand as I thought was enough. I'll be putting them back in tomorrow and hope for the best

Thanks for all your help areXseven, I wouldn't do this if I didn't have all the pictures and instructions that you posted

Amel
Old 03-12-04, 02:08 PM
  #154  
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Originally posted by ISUposs
I hope that I am wrong, but a zero boost problem is probably not due to a wastegate line that popped off. Zero pressure at the wasegate actuator will actually give an overboost situation because the boost is what opens it. I would check to make sure that the pre-spool actuator/door is shut very tight. That is the exact problem I had after I rebuilt my turbos.
How did you solve the problem with the door??
Old 03-12-04, 05:37 PM
  #155  
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The actuator rod is threaded. That is how you are supposed to adjust it, but mine was so rusted that I used some washers to space the actuator out a little bit away from the compressor housing. Which pulls the door closed tightly.
Old 03-12-04, 05:57 PM
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I have a question for you guys. I didn't buy any new washers that were between the bolts that hold the coolant and oil lines on the turbo. I just reused those and tighetned them enough. Do you think that'll be ok. Is it going to leak?

Amel
Old 03-12-04, 07:52 PM
  #157  
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Originally posted by BoOsTin FD
I have a question for you guys. I didn't buy any new washers that were between the bolts that hold the coolant and oil lines on the turbo. I just reused those and tighetned them enough. Do you think that'll be ok. Is it going to leak?

Amel
Make sure they're on pretty tight.
Old 03-12-04, 08:01 PM
  #158  
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Originally posted by ISUposs
The actuator rod is threaded. That is how you are supposed to adjust it, but mine was so rusted that I used some washers to space the actuator out a little bit away from the compressor housing. Which pulls the door closed tightly.
The Actuator Rod was not disturbed during or after my Turbos came off. And both flaps/doors are working pretty good. I don't think my boost problem has anything to do with the Rod(s).

I still think it was the disconnected vacuum hose I found after I pulled the Turbos off. We'll know for sure by tomorrow afternoon.

I'll be installing the old Y-pipe w/plastic cross-over tube to compare any Turbo spool whine resonating as it travels to the IC. If the whine is minimal, then I'll take it off and install the aluminum 99' Jspec Y-Pipe. Then compare spool whine Db's.
Old 03-12-04, 08:45 PM
  #159  
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Originally posted by BoOsTin FD
Thanks for all your help areXseven, I wouldn't do this if I didn't have all the pictures and instructions that you posted

Amel
I'm glad to see the thread has helped a few members. I hope your post-rebuild start-up is without complications. Keep us posted. Thanks. Jimmy
Old 03-12-04, 10:20 PM
  #160  
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I'll hopefully start mine tomorrow. I just hope nothing leaks or that screw falls off . All I can say is I'd rather rebuild 10 turbos, rather then take one off an FD
Old 03-12-04, 10:31 PM
  #161  
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Originally posted by BoOsTin FD
I'll hopefully start mine tomorrow. I just hope nothing leaks or that screw falls off . All I can say is I'd rather rebuild 10 turbos, rather then take one off an FD
Yeah, I like the Gravy too.

What time are you gonna start the install??
Old 03-12-04, 11:50 PM
  #162  
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I installed everything except some of the polished stuff that I did as well. Like manifold, Apexi intakes, PFS Smic, IC piping etc. That's all i have to put back on. Everything else is bolted on and ready to get fluids

I'll start puting rest of the stuff around 8 30am Central Time
Old 03-13-04, 02:38 AM
  #163  
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Originally posted by areXseven
The Actuator Rod was not disturbed during or after my Turbos came off. And both flaps/doors are working pretty good. I don't think my boost problem has anything to do with the Rod(s).

I still think it was the disconnected vacuum hose I found after I pulled the Turbos off. We'll know for sure by tomorrow afternoon.

I'll be installing the old Y-pipe w/plastic cross-over tube to compare any Turbo spool whine resonating as it travels to the IC. If the whine is minimal, then I'll take it off and install the aluminum 99' Jspec Y-Pipe. Then compare spool whine Db's.
My rods weren't messed with either. Don't ask me how it happened. All I know is that took care of it. Just keep that in mind if they don't spool.

Now then, let me reiterate...on an otherwise fine working system, a disconnected wastegate line will NOT and can NOT lead to zero boost. Just think about how the system works.

Maybe the vacuum lines to the charge control actuator were backwards. Making it stay open and thereby venting air through the charge relief valve. That would also make the turbos whine because they would be over spinning like a ****. Anyway, good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Old 03-13-04, 06:15 AM
  #164  
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Originally posted by ISUposs
My rods weren't messed with either. Don't ask me how it happened. All I know is that took care of it. Just keep that in mind if they don't spool.

Now then, let me reiterate...on an otherwise fine working system, a disconnected wastegate line will NOT and can NOT lead to zero boost. Just think about how the system works.

Maybe the vacuum lines to the charge control actuator were backwards. Making it stay open and thereby venting air through the charge relief valve. That would also make the turbos whine because they would be over spinning like a ****. Anyway, good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Fair enough. I'll double check all the line before I crank her up. Thanks.
Old 03-13-04, 06:18 AM
  #165  
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Originally posted by BoOsTin FD
I'll start puting rest of the stuff around 8 30am Central Time
I'll start on mine around 1:00 central. Keep us posted. Good Luck.
Old 03-13-04, 06:36 AM
  #166  
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Also,...one last thing..:

At the time I cranked her up after the turbo rebuild, my Air Pump hoses were disconnected,...as well as the DP O2 sensor (wire broke off). Do y'all think these two seperate "disconnections" may have had anything to do with my boost problem?? I can/will solder the O2 wire back onto the sensor, ..but the small hose coming off the Air Pump connecting to an air pipe behind it, broke when I first took it off BEFORE the rebuild. ??
Old 03-13-04, 11:11 AM
  #167  
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I dont think your air pump would make any diff. It shouldnt change anything other than your exhaust temps ant the main cat. Air pump is there just to pass emissions.

The O2 sensor...??? Im not sure if that would create a lumpy ride but it shouldnt make a diff on your turbo spool or boost pressure.

I'm not 100% sure though.
Old 03-13-04, 06:38 PM
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Well I installed mine. It idled fine everything was great. I went for a drive. Still everything was great. I boosted it up till like 7 psi. I heard a whine and ****, but it everything else was fine. So after like 30 min of driving, I decided to push it a little and thats when all hell broke loose.

******* screw that held the primary turbos propeler fell off and ate the damn wheel. Oil everywhere, huge smoke behind me like from that game spy hunter. I don't know what to do now. I'm so pissed and hurt and broke.

Amel
Old 03-13-04, 07:31 PM
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^ OUCH!

Im sorry to hear it.
Old 03-13-04, 09:24 PM
  #170  
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Originally posted by BoOsTin FD
Well I installed mine. It idled fine everything was great. I went for a drive. Still everything was great. I boosted it up till like 7 psi. I heard a whine and ****, but it everything else was fine. So after like 30 min of driving, I decided to push it a little and thats when all hell broke loose.

******* screw that held the primary turbos propeler fell off and ate the damn wheel. Oil everywhere, huge smoke behind me like from that game spy hunter. I don't know what to do now. I'm so pissed and hurt and broke.

Amel
Sorry to hear it.

Luckily I caught mine before that happened.

I might have an extra set of wheels around here somewhere. PM me if you are interested and I can look for them.

Last edited by ISUposs; 03-13-04 at 09:26 PM.
Old 03-13-04, 09:44 PM
  #171  
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I pm'd him earlier but haven't heard from him yet. He must feel pretty disappointed and pissed-off at the same time. I know the feeling!! My lack of boost problem seems un-important for now.

Hope he can save the Twins by just installing another compressor wheel.
Old 03-13-04, 11:19 PM
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I went out. It started to rain here and there wasn't much I could do, as I don't have a garage the turbos that are on the car now are the turbos that I bought used. I still have my turbos but they are pretty much fucked as well. I could take them off and put them on the ones that I rebuilded but I think all the new parts taht i put in are pretty much gone.

I'll try to do something tomorrow, but I don't know what How much should I tighten the damn nut. I screwd it in as much as I could so that the wheel would spin freely. If I did anymore, it would get stuck. Rebuild and everything else seems easy, only problem is with that damn thing.
Old 03-14-04, 10:03 PM
  #173  
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BoOsTin FD is your engine ok? Hopefully that nut didn't get into the engine. Sorry to hear that man
Old 03-14-04, 11:26 PM
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I found the nut. It was just sitting there in front of the wheel. The front wheel was chewed up and the rear wheel was in the downipipe.

Engine is fine, Nuthing went past the IC, so I think it's ok
Anyway, I installed my old primary back on and the rebuilded 2ndary. I retightend the 2ndary nut and put them all together and back in. I went for small drive, I was really affraid to boost it. I boosted it up to 4k which was only primary and it's fine.

I never had problems with the primary anyway, 2nd turbo was my problem. I'll try to drive it tomorrow some more, so I can burn off all that oil that is in the exhaust

Amel
Old 03-15-04, 04:02 PM
  #175  
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Originally posted by areXseven
What's your reason for the rebuild???
Shaft play. Way too much of it. I took the secondary apart today (much harder than I thought) pieces didn't really slide off easily. Anyway, I didn't get to putting it back together because I used paint to mark the wheels. When I came back after lunch to re-assemble the stuff, PB blaster ate all signs of the paint, so now I have to re-balance them.

From what I understand the balancing requires them to be dis-assembled, so I will leave that to the experts. I am sending it to Don's Turbo service in Oregon. Hopefully I will get it all done.

X....


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