Question for guys who blew their Motor..
#1
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Question for guys who blew their Motor..
Hey guys..
I know the reasons why apex seals blow.
To much boost not enough fuel. Detenation.
My question is: What was the driving situation
when you blew your motor??
1. Racing thru your gear 1-5 to redline?
2. in 4th or 5th gear while cruising then WOT?
3. Down shifting then WOT?
4. Forgot to Shift???
To name a few situation..
A curious thought..
Thanks.
I know the reasons why apex seals blow.
To much boost not enough fuel. Detenation.
My question is: What was the driving situation
when you blew your motor??
1. Racing thru your gear 1-5 to redline?
2. in 4th or 5th gear while cruising then WOT?
3. Down shifting then WOT?
4. Forgot to Shift???
To name a few situation..
A curious thought..
Thanks.
#6
The second.....Dunno...what happend. It just went durning hard driving.
The third.....nothing....ha!!
______________________________
My vert...had the plug prob from electrolysis on the first original engine....didn't get to blow it.
:@)
The third.....nothing....ha!!
______________________________
My vert...had the plug prob from electrolysis on the first original engine....didn't get to blow it.
:@)
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#11
hey, your car is on fire!
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all I did was crack an apex... at the track on 13 psi... they said it was because my pettit ECU had too much advanced timing. I bought it used and it was programed for more mods than what I had.
#12
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KZ1-
how would a engine blow at 3500rpm and 5psi??
is that even possible?
DamonB
Whats this copper blockweld??
You take the engine out to do this?
or was it some kind of additive??
thanks
how would a engine blow at 3500rpm and 5psi??
is that even possible?
DamonB
Whats this copper blockweld??
You take the engine out to do this?
or was it some kind of additive??
thanks
#13
Lives on the Forum
Copper block weld is made by CRC and it's available at the auto parts store. It's used for fixing blown head gaskets or cracked blocks. It has what looks like copper particles in suspension in a fluid. You must NOT have any anti-freeze in the system when you do this; just clean, distilled water. After the treatment you refill with coolant. Follow the directions on the bottle; it worked perfectly for me, but I caught my leak early when it was small.
My motor didn't blow from detonation, I think she finally just got tired after 97,000 miles.
My motor didn't blow from detonation, I think she finally just got tired after 97,000 miles.
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
WOT, didn't realize I blew it until I got off the gas and the idle was bad.
I ran through 1st, 2nd to around 7500 rpm.
Didn't notice a loss in power during the run.
Blew a rear rotor apex seal, about a 1/8 inch piece was embedded in the face of the rear rotor near the apex, and scored up the whole rear rotor.
thesaint
I ran through 1st, 2nd to around 7500 rpm.
Didn't notice a loss in power during the run.
Blew a rear rotor apex seal, about a 1/8 inch piece was embedded in the face of the rear rotor near the apex, and scored up the whole rear rotor.
thesaint
#15
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Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
KZ1-
how would a engine blow at 3500rpm and 5psi??
is that even possible?
DamonB
Whats this copper blockweld??
You take the engine out to do this?
or was it some kind of additive??
thanks
KZ1-
how would a engine blow at 3500rpm and 5psi??
is that even possible?
DamonB
Whats this copper blockweld??
You take the engine out to do this?
or was it some kind of additive??
thanks
anyway, I have the log of the run from my PFC on my computer somehwhere it shows where the knock started and what RPM, boost, etc.
#18
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Mine went on a wot run cannot remember what gear. i had been having problems with a high rpm stumble, found out the fuel pump was loosing power. So wot lost fuel pressure, heard the infamous ping let of but it was too late. Would not even idle, funny thing is I looked at all of the apex seals through the exhaust port and none were missing. Oh well, several thousand ($7000) and I'm waiting on a single, new ported engine, and all of the other bull*&%# it takes to upgrade.
Nick
Nick
#22
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by sinfestboy
ok, so a severly vented hood.
ok, so a severly vented hood.
However, just because the car might pop a coolant hose off or something that causes the temperature to sky rocket to the top doesn't always mean the coolant seals are toast. If you immediately shut the car down, most of the time you won't cause any damage.
#23
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well, having a vented hood is gonna let ALOT of heat out of there. and over time, Im sure it adds up. I mean a GOOD vented hood, like the scoot hood, or C west hood.
#24
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Originally posted by Mahjik
lol, if you overheat the engine that much, I suspect that even not having a hood on the car wouldn't help. I doubt the heat would tranfer out of the engine area quick enough to not cause any damage.
However, just because the car might pop a coolant hose off or something that causes the temperature to sky rocket to the top doesn't always mean the coolant seals are toast. If you immediately shut the car down, most of the time you won't cause any damage.
lol, if you overheat the engine that much, I suspect that even not having a hood on the car wouldn't help. I doubt the heat would tranfer out of the engine area quick enough to not cause any damage.
However, just because the car might pop a coolant hose off or something that causes the temperature to sky rocket to the top doesn't always mean the coolant seals are toast. If you immediately shut the car down, most of the time you won't cause any damage.
I have a question, when all you people blew apex seals...did you a) not change your fuel filter, b) have some other kind of fuel problem, or c) just over clock the boost with not enough fuel?
#25
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by sinfestboy
well, having a vented hood is gonna let ALOT of heat out of there. and over time, Im sure it adds up. I mean a GOOD vented hood, like the scoot hood, or C west hood.
well, having a vented hood is gonna let ALOT of heat out of there. and over time, Im sure it adds up. I mean a GOOD vented hood, like the scoot hood, or C west hood.
However, vented hoods and downpipes do help to reduce the underhood temperatures.