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Old 05-06-08, 08:39 PM
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Question Question about really high oil pressure

First, sorry for long post but wanted to include all the info...
I recently completed a comprehensive but stock rebuild on my motor. The only thing related to an oil mod I did was to replace the wax pellet with an Adkins plug and replace all four bearings. The motor starts and seems to run fine with good power and decent vac (about 16 in/hg vac at 850rpm) after 500 miles into the break-in on new seals and housings. After reinstallation I've found only two issues that MAY be related. Despite a search here and in the rotary tech section I didn't find anything obviously related. So I'm looking for some input/opinions/help...

1. Unusually high oil pressure. It's about 65 or 70 psi indicated at cold start-up w/a slow idle (~800 rpm w/AWS removed) on 10w-30 dino oil. Ambient doesn't seem to matter. But increase rpm beyond about 1500 and pressure will rise to just short of 120 psi indicated. Yes, I know all about the the oil pressure sending unit issues, I don't think it's that, because as the engine warms the pressure steadily drops to normal levels typical of what I saw BEFORE the rebuild.
2. The second issue is an oil leak and based on the location, it appears to be the rear main seal. This was a brand new seal installed by myself and AFAIK, correctly. Leak isn't nessarily dramatic, but it leaks out of the lower inspection plate of the bellhousing. It's really hard to tell for sure, since I can't put the car up in the air to look each time I drive it, but the leak seems to subside, if not stop, AFTER warm up.
My first question is why the high oil pressure? Could it be related in some way to the wax pellet replacement with the adkins plug, or maybe new front and rear bearings and to be expected? And secondly, could the unusually high oil pressure possibly be causing a new rear main seal leak? My understanding is that this isn't necessarily a high pressure area, but......
Old 05-06-08, 10:53 PM
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120psi is on the upper range for sure. When I first start mine up its almost up that high also. But my oil pressure gauge is kind of hit and miss at times.

Your oil leak is most likely from the pan. The way the pan and motor mounts meet up tends to flex the pan enough to leak.

Did you use a pan gasket?
Old 05-06-08, 10:58 PM
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I dont think you oil pressure is why you have a leak!

I hate to say it but mine idles when warm at 80 psi and 140 psi at 3000 rpms thats with defi gauges and 10/40 oil. And if it doesant leak yours shouldnt!
Old 05-07-08, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
First, sorry for long post but wanted to include all the info...
I recently completed a comprehensive but stock rebuild on my motor. The only thing related to an oil mod I did was to replace the wax pellet with an Adkins plug and replace all four bearings. The motor starts and seems to run fine with good power and decent vac (about 16 in/hg vac at 850rpm) after 500 miles into the break-in on new seals and housings. After reinstallation I've found only two issues that MAY be related. Despite a search here and in the rotary tech section I didn't find anything obviously related. So I'm looking for some input/opinions/help...

1. Unusually high oil pressure. It's about 65 or 70 psi indicated at cold start-up w/a slow idle (~800 rpm w/AWS removed) on 10w-30 dino oil. Ambient doesn't seem to matter. But increase rpm beyond about 1500 and pressure will rise to just short of 120 psi indicated. Yes, I know all about the the oil pressure sending unit issues, I don't think it's that, because as the engine warms the pressure steadily drops to normal levels typical of what I saw BEFORE the rebuild.
2. The second issue is an oil leak and based on the location, it appears to be the rear main seal. This was a brand new seal installed by myself and AFAIK, correctly. Leak isn't nessarily dramatic, but it leaks out of the lower inspection plate of the bellhousing. It's really hard to tell for sure, since I can't put the car up in the air to look each time I drive it, but the leak seems to subside, if not stop, AFTER warm up.
My first question is why the high oil pressure? Could it be related in some way to the wax pellet replacement with the adkins plug, or maybe new front and rear bearings and to be expected? And secondly, could the unusually high oil pressure possibly be causing a new rear main seal leak? My understanding is that this isn't necessarily a high pressure area, but......

1. High oil pressure is definitely related to the elimination of the thermal pellet in the EC. When cold, the thermal pellet function is to bypass oil that would normally cool the inside of the rotor. With this bypass eliminated, oil pressure is higher. the reason to eliminate it is to prevent low oil pressure after warmup if the thermal pellet malfunctions.
2. IIRC, pressurized oil does not directly reach the rear main seal, so that should not be related to the higher oil pressure.

Dave
Old 05-07-08, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by RX7WEEE
...Your oil leak is most likely from the pan. The way the pan and motor mounts meet up tends to flex the pan enough to leak.
Did you use a pan gasket?
Appreciate the suggestion, but I'm pretty certain the leak isn't at the pan as it comes out from around the lower inpection cover in the bellhousing. Hard to see anything more with a flashlight though, due to the PP and flywheel. And no, I didn't use a gasket. I used Hondabond with a Garfinkle Oil Pan brace, and it sat over 3 days to cure after torquing the bolts to spec.
Originally Posted by RX7WEEE
120psi is on the upper range for sure. When I first start mine up its almost up that high also. But my oil pressure gauge is kind of hit and miss at times.
Originally Posted by Busted7
I dont think you oil pressure is why you have a leak!
I hate to say it but mine idles when warm at 80 psi and 140 psi at 3000 rpms thats with defi gauges and 10/40 oil. And if it doesant leak yours shouldnt!
This is actually a little reassuring that others see high pressure at low rpm too. I never saw this kind of pressure previous to the rebuild and my first association was to the leaking rear seal. Not looking forward to pulling the transmission and flywheel to fix it, but it's not THAT big of a deal. I just don't want to go through the trouble only to have a repeat of the leaking issue with too high of oil pressure.
Old 05-07-08, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
1. High oil pressure is definitely related to the elimination of the thermal pellet in the EC. When cold, the thermal pellet function is to bypass oil that would normally cool the inside of the rotor. With this bypass eliminated, oil pressure is higher. the reason to eliminate it is to prevent low oil pressure after warmup if the thermal pellet malfunctions.
2. IIRC, pressurized oil does not directly reach the rear main seal, so that should not be related to the higher oil pressure.

Dave
Thanks Dave. I suspected that what I was seeing was related to the pellet replacement, but I could find nothing in old posts or threads to confirm it. And that's good news about the lack of high pressure at the seal.
Old 10-31-11, 02:10 PM
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Just realized I never updated this thread.....
The oil leak was NOT related to the higher pressures I saw after the rebuild. As DaveW pointed out, this is not a high pressure area.
It was caused by a rusty/pitted area on the portion of the flywheel that is inserted into the rear main/stationary gear seal. It abraided the seal and caused it to leak. Both the seal and flywheel were replaced and the oil leak never returned.
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