Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

Tri-Point had it on their dyno for tuning not tooth ago, I thought this might be a tune issue, but they thought everything looked fine. They had it on a datalogit.

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

So I installed a new tps because I couldn't get the other one in spec. I put a new one in and can't get it in spec either...wtf??? Anyone else have this problem?

eplusz

I'm having the exact same problem with my FD. Going to order a complete gasket set soon and start replacing every vacuum hose, I'm thinking about buying a vacuum box and hook every vacuum line to the box to simplify things a bit.

Doable since its a single

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much convinced the problem is my IAC valve. My cousin and I once again sprayed down the entire engine bay with carb cleaner and nothing happened. The AIC valve though seems to be a little lose inside. I bought one last week, but as it turns out there are different versions of it and the one I got didn't fit my car. So, I'm on the hunt for one of these:

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

So, I think I found the answer by dumb luck while looking for the location of the AIC valve. This whole time I've been messing with the AWS valve...oops

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...estion-824754/

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

Looks like the AWS valve might be the problem. I think I might try unplugging it to see if that helps.

getgone

iTrader: (2)

Have you checked the ISC (idle speed control). Its in a difficult spot on the underside of the UIM in the back (near firewall). If dirt or debris gets into the ISC, it will do exactly what u are experiencing.

When do I get the beer?

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

Actually i replaced the ISC a couple days ago.

However I'm happy to announce. THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED

What happened is once I found out the part pictured up above is NOT the ISC or as I know it the IAC valve and is in fact the AWS (accelerated warm up system) valve, I did some checking as to where the IAC was located. In that search I found the link that I also posted above, where someone had the same problem I had to the letter. Apparently if the PFC is tuned with it disconnected, and then the AWS valve is reconnected this pulsing idle is the result. I unpluged the valve and there it is a normal steady idle.

A little history as to how this miss hap occurred. One day while working on the FD I started to get a loud buzzing from under the hood. My cousin and I were confused as to what it was. After some hours of research we found out that the Idle Air Control Valve will buzz if it gets disconnected. In our ignorance, partially because we didn't have anything that showed us what the valve looked like, we mistook the AWS valve as the AIC valve. We hooked it back up and by weird coincidence the buzzing stopped. Perhaps hooking the valve up we bumped the plug to the aic valve getting rid of the buzzing. This in turn lead to the pulsing idle. Unfortunately from the recommendations from the community I now have a set of UIM, LIM and throttle body gaskets, a spare IAC valve, TPS and AWS valve. There were a lot of people that jumped on the band wagon for bad vacuum leaks even though I repeatedly doused the engine bay with carb cleaner with no change to the running of the engine or visual vacuum leaks and reported so. So hopefully if someone has the same issue in the future they will find this post and save themselves some money.

Thank you all for your participation and I'll see you on the road.

getgone

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I did not see this sooner. Could have saved u some hassle. BTW, it is called the Idle Speed Control (See page F-81 of the FSM). Happy motoring!!

fcyaa

Hey Whitetiger I'm having the same problem. Where are you located in los angeles? Are you going to mazdafest this saturday?

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

I'm in North Hollywood, and I'll probably be going to mazfest for a little bit. I got my cousin a job at Tri-Point and they're going to be there.

fcyaa

Sounds good I'll see you there.

r0ma

Is the AWS at the back of the UIM near the firewall?

I disconnected mine and the car ran smoother (no jolting between gear changes) but once warmed up would not idle, it would just stall...... any suggestions?

The problem I have is when the car is warmed up the idle will pulsate from 300rmp-1400rpm.

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you disconnected the idle air controller. It's up against the fire wall near the tps. The aws valve is under the uim near the back

r0ma

Yep you are right.... I have a block off plate kit and am gonig to remove the AWS to see if it fixes my issue.

just a question: I also have a block off plate for the IAC, if I block it off will it make the car stall again and if so do you know what is needed to correct this?

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

Yes it will. I'm not sure if you have a stand alone or not, but if you don't you're going to have problems, and if you do you're going to have to re-tune for it. Basically removing it is more trouble than it's worth. Keep it and make your life easier. Also removing it doesn't get you any more hp and its so out of the way no one is going to see it so there's not aesthetic gain either.

r0ma

Yeah I have a power fc. Ok I will leave it for the moment and rip the aws out first.

Thanks again.