Anyone with a good site or a run down on pulling the motor?

I took out the TB, IC, and got most the wire harness out of the way. Should I take off the turbos? How about the PS and AC? Pull the trans off? Or just leave it all on untill after the motor is out?

BTW: What was Mazda thinking when putting the coils above the motor, mine look fried. Looks like going aftermarket ignition (MSD, OR???).

Later, Jeff

 

Leave the turbo on. It's up to you whether you want to disconnect the mission or not. I've seen them done with and without the mission. It was faster with the mission out, but it looked a little easier just pulling the mission since you don't have to pull the ppf/driveshaft/wiring harness. It's easier to work on the turbo when it's out. If you've got all that stuff off, you just need to disconnect the oil cooler lines and of course the radiator and you're in the home stretch.

I've helped with 5 or 6 engine swaps so it's still fairly fresh in my head.

 

remove intake, IC, AC, PS and oil cooler lines
pop the ECU harness through firewall
disconnect brake hose from manifold, ground from firewall, MAP sensor vacuum line, ignition harness, and all harnesses around it

under car....
remove all shields and cross braces along with cat back and midpipe
remove driveshaft and discounnect PPF

now you have an option .... with tranny attached or without. I've done both and either is ok. I do drop tranny and pull engine on the removeal and then to install engine and tranny together if you follow.

Oh yeah be sure to drain engine oil, tranny oil, and coolant from radatior and engine block. Don't forget that supporting the engine when you disconnect the PPF is a good idea. It is much easier to get DP off with engine out of car!! Leave the AC and PS in the car though .... just disconnect from the engine block. Don't reconnect the bottom AC bolts to the block ... you'll understand why later!

Yeah the stock coil location sucks ....

 

I think the hardest part is getting the stupid crank angle sensor connectors out. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THESE

 

I think I'm going to fly Poweraxel out to fix my F@@@ing car. You up Man. He's out lerking for Rx questions.

Later, Jeff

 

hahahaha...jeff call the shop when you got time

 

Do NOT disconnect the A/C or P/S lines, they stay connected and the pump and compressor get disconnected from the block and stay in the car.

there are quick disconnects for teh two oil lines going to the oil coolers( base or touring) and two more for the R1. Use those instead of trying to disconnect them from the block, much easier, and you dont take a chance on stripping.

It is MUCH easier to remove just the engine and NOT the tranny, if i remember, its 3 or 4 bolts, a few on top of the tranny and one below, make sure to disconnect the clutch cable, as when the tranny drops, it will hang on it, and release the clutch bearing. Dont bother touching the starter.
Its not as hard as it looks, reconnecting all the sensors is simple, they have been fried to hell, and the wires stay bent the same way as they came out.
Label the fuel lines, find the one that delivers and teh one that returns, dont wanna get them mixed up.
A good thing to do is to let the coolant drain, and then jack up the bottom of the car, as there is still coolant in the motor, save you a big mess later. Remember the coolant lines to the heater core on the drivers side, pita.

Most of all, have fun, its going to **** you off.
Rob
93 Base, white/blue pearl
LARGE garret turbo coming soon to the street races near you.