I'm not saying you didn't, but a rotary does NOT have to detonate to blow seals. The damage looks pretty much the same, though detonation damage is usually worse than just general seals blowing due to age/general wear.

Let me know if you need help with the engine, I can probably set you up for around 2G with a 12 month+ warranty.

 

"...I was attempting to race a newer Firebird/Trans Am when somehow the boost spiked to 15psi. I say somehow because the boost controller is still hooked up and that was set for 12psi. Sigh, well it knocked pretty bad at the top of second with the dreaded metallic popcorn noise and all. After that the car just doesn't idle right. I started it up this morning to see if it would even turnover and it still does with no difficulty but the idle still goes to ****. I checked the MAP sensor hoping it was just the vacuum line which had come undone. No such luck. Car idles in neutral with 8 or so HG of vacuum in nuetral and with the a/c on it drops to 2 or 3. In gear it's even worse. In gear without a/c it stays around 3HG and with the a/c on it dropps to 0 or maybe even 1/2PSI of boost. A little light gray smoke escapes from the exhaust."

That's a quote from my livejournal. Anyways I'm pretty sure it was knock. $2K seems to be the going price. I checked out your website and it looks like you do some pretty solid work. The problem is it would be more money to remove the motor and send it to you. I suppose what I would end up doing (regardless of which shop I finally do end up choosing) is to send the car out with everything and have the shop remove and rebuild it then reinstall it. I also need to change my setup when this happens. The setup I'm currently running doesn't appear to be very safe; intake/dp/mp/catback/boost controller.

Do you mind if I ask how much experience do you have with 3rd gen motors (even though I know the teardown and rebuild portion is generally the same)? I ask because of the various vacuum lines (which I plan on replacing at time of rebuild). I also want to add the block off plates to remove some crap which the car doesn't need.

 

Mine was sitting around 100 last motor I popped.... I wouldn't mess w/ boost untill your motor gets fixed... if your air pump is bad... take the bastard out and cap the rear metal tube you see between the firewall and the LIM. less clutter.

 

Removed the air pump about a month ago. I didn't mess aorund with boost. It just spiked for some odd reason. Up until then it would hold at a solid 10-12-12 pattern which is not perfect but livable.

 

I specialize in FC setups because I know the most about them and have dealt with them the most. However I also am moving gradually more and more into FD's...have done about 10 installs to this point, not including tinkering with my own FD. As for the engine blocks themselves, all 86+ engines are built in an identical manner. IF you want a vacuum hose job done during the install I can accomodate this no problem...if you have defective solenoids or checkvalves then we'll need to source those elsewhere, I don't keep any in stock.

IN general, a ported rebuild that required a rotor and rotorhousing due to seals blowing, installed with hose job will run you around 2700-3 grand with an 18 month warranty.

 

Hrm I need to check my wastegate. Is it possible for it to get stuck closed? Boost controller is still connected and checked most of the relatively easy to access vacuum hoses and find no leak. I'm still trying to figure out what caused this spike so it doesn't happen again in the future.

RR - I want to keep stock ports. No point in moving the powerband further up, also I've heard that the stock turbines don't push enough air to really warrant a port-job.

 

I wasnt saying that you had to get a port job...over 75% of turbo rotary owners do, though. I actually prefer building stockport engines, they idle rock solid and pull great vacuum compared to large streetports.

 

not true.