Tem120

iTrader: (5)

One downside is you will need to upgrade the pullies and your water pump may still slip unless you get a tensioner to help reduce the slip

Kakashi07

iTrader: (3)

I highly recommend this if you do remove it. It will prevent any slipping of the water pump due to the insufficient pulley contact caused by the air pump removal.

One pro is you will end up with a slightly less cluttered engine bay. I don't know what you emisions standards are in NC but I currently live in GA and I have removed all associated emisions equipment. As stated early however a proper tune can help mitigate the effect on the environment. I know there are also some people who use water injection to reduce carbon monoxide emissions thus allowing them to pass emissions testing.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Also from earlier in the thread--->

KehoeAutomotive

I have a suggestion Camajo.... Why don't you unplug your air pump fuse and go drive your car around for awhile? That way you can find out what it will be like before you pull the trigger without the computer upgrade.

I've often thought about removing the air pump myself and now I am curious to pull out the fuse and try it myself. As a matter of fact I am currently having a little weird throttle "hiccup" with I lightly engage my throttle like DaleClark talks about. I might even have a problem with my air pump.

I'm so glad I'm reading up on here.

But perhaps it's a little like researching an medical problem online. You start to discover all of the horrible things that can happen and then you think you are going to die. I pulled out my midpipe letting the air pump vent to atmosphere wondering about the boost creep I was so warned about here. I am lucky so far. I'm checking my datalogger often to make sure it does not happen but I was freaking out about it.

Well anyway... pull the fuse out and go for a drive. I would like to see what happens. I doubt it would hurt anything and I personally am all about collecting data... and best of all it will cost you nothing.

Let me know what happens... I'm curious.

Johnny Kommavongsa

iTrader: (13)

^ FYI this thread is 4 yrs old. Instead of creating a new thread I asked my questions here because it was relevant to the topic.

camajo

iTrader: (3)

Wow, surprised this is still going, but I did remove my air pump and install and idler pulley around the time of this thread and its hard to say if it affected the idle. The car idled and ran about the same with our without it, but I later ran into hot start problems (unrelated to the air pump) which put me on the road to rebuild and a single conversion. I think the main point to consider is that if you remove it, you will eventually clog your cat.

IMO, leave it in if you are going to keep emissions. I later figured out my noise was just an air leak in the path of my intakes so I reinstalled the air pump it and the only noise I had was the occasional 'moo' everyone talks about which didn't bother me.

KehoeAutomotive

Too funny..... I did not notice the date on that.

Well.... if it's ok I will pull the pump fuse out and go for a test drive and post my results. Now I have to know!


twinsinside made a comment on it and I guess it just popped up to the top of the list.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

And we appreciate that! Keep it up.

KehoeAutomotive

Ok...so I went to pull out my fuel pump fuse and it was missing! I installed one and all my light throttle hesitation is gone!

Enigmatic

Thread revival!

I am battling with this decision right now as I'm about to convert to single and my short manifold allows me to keep the AP if I want.

BUT - I don't know if the Adaptronic will run the Air pump - how is it controlled? What controls it? It seems like a massive headache but removing it will screw me for emissions here in Australia, so if I can keep it relatively easily I will.

Otherwise it's going in the bin and I'm ordering the Pineapple Racing kit with expedited shipping haha.

NJ-JDM

iTrader: (23)

Subscribed. I am sort of in the same boat. I need to pass NJ emissions. My car already has a DP and hi-flo cat. Stock ECM but I have a PFC waiting to be installed. I bought a used modded Pettit y-pipe but it seems to be preventing me from re-installing the air pump. I have most of the peripherals apart as I have been replacing all of the cooling lines. It has been suggested that its just a clocking issue. I am new to the FD as up late last fall.

Enigmatic

Well I just decided to not worry, get an idler pulley kit and if I ever get pinged for emissions I'll swap to E85. Too much of a headache.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

And changing the car over to E85 is so easy.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

hehehehe

Enigmatic

Easier than trying to retain equipment and pass emissions with a modified RX7 on 98 pump fuel. My car is ready for it, minus the injectors size and flex sensor. We don't have to pass emissions every year here (Australia) - it's only if we get pinged by a cop for an EPA test. So for me it really would be easier going E85, it'd only be if I was unlucky. I would rather spend a bit going to E85, than spend a tonne going back to standard only to revert it.

adey

I have been looking into this myself, and so far this is the best explanation. Thanks (from a few years ago) Dale!!

Question though: with a full standalone ECU (Adaptronic) can I still run the air pump? The tuner said that we're able to run much leaner without the air pump connected.
Comments?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

You can if your ecu can control it. However I always unplug the airpump when we tune as it will give a falsely lean afr reading when its on due to the additional air being injected into the exhaust.