Progressed made...still need advice...
08-01-07, 12:27 PM
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Progressed made...still need advice...
Okay, I just changed the plugs, re-did the entire grounding system per Damians set up, and the TPS is measuring as the following:
3F: closed: 1.10v fully open: 4.96
3G: closed: 0.55v fully open: 4.26
Factory specs are as follows:
3F: closed: 0.75-1.25v fully open: 4.8-5.0v
3G: closed: 0.1v-0.7v fully open: 4.2-4.6v
I took the measurements at operating temp. My vacuum is 20-21 on decel in gear and 16-18 at idle. Previous to today, the car choked on itself trying to start and the idle wasn't too smooth either. Today is started MUCH smoother and idled nice right away. I thought, "awesome!" I took it for a drive and upon acceleration, it is still stumbling/hesitating. I am having trouble keeping the idle to stay consistant too. I will come to a stop sign and it is 1000. I take off and come to another, it is 1300 or even 750. I have played with both idle adjustment screws. I remember having a similar problem to this before the new motor as well, but this time I have all of the grounds added and new plugs. Is there something I am missing? The Map sensor and ISC all spec out as well....
Trev
3F: closed: 1.10v fully open: 4.96
3G: closed: 0.55v fully open: 4.26
Factory specs are as follows:
3F: closed: 0.75-1.25v fully open: 4.8-5.0v
3G: closed: 0.1v-0.7v fully open: 4.2-4.6v
I took the measurements at operating temp. My vacuum is 20-21 on decel in gear and 16-18 at idle. Previous to today, the car choked on itself trying to start and the idle wasn't too smooth either. Today is started MUCH smoother and idled nice right away. I thought, "awesome!" I took it for a drive and upon acceleration, it is still stumbling/hesitating. I am having trouble keeping the idle to stay consistant too. I will come to a stop sign and it is 1000. I take off and come to another, it is 1300 or even 750. I have played with both idle adjustment screws. I remember having a similar problem to this before the new motor as well, but this time I have all of the grounds added and new plugs. Is there something I am missing? The Map sensor and ISC all spec out as well....
Trev
08-01-07, 12:58 PM
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My only codes are 30, 33, 38, 39 (split air bypass) (port air bypass) (AWS) (relief 2) All of these I removed for simplicity and emissions.
08-01-07, 02:31 PM
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i would describe accelerating in any gear as if it were in limp mode and bogging down...once I get past about 2k, it is smoother, but if I put any sort of "push" to the pedal it is doggy as all hell. I don't have a Knock sensor code either...I know with my supra the KS would really put it in a limp mode, but I always got a CEL with it as well...I am beyond pissed now...lol....just because the TPS is in voltage, is it still possible for it to be faulty? I say the the fast idle cam was fully extended out. the dash pot seems to be functioning properly as well...
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08-02-07, 02:30 PM
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As far as the lousy idle, could be a sticking ISC. Clean it out.
Could be a small vacuum leak as well.
Oh, do you have the stock ECU? Do you have the airpump, and is it functional? Some of the air pump air is injected into the exhaust manifold, and the ECU compensates for the extra air injected when it looks at the O2 sensor under closed loop. If that air isn't being injected due to removal of the solenoids or the air pump isn't there or working, the car will have lousy throttle tip-in and run rough. Found that one out on my car when I accidentally blew the AC fuse, which the air pump is on that circuit.
One way to test would be to unplug the O2 sensor and go for a drive. That forces the ECU into open loop all the time. Not good for fuel economy, but worth it for testing purposes.
Dale
Could be a small vacuum leak as well.
Oh, do you have the stock ECU? Do you have the airpump, and is it functional? Some of the air pump air is injected into the exhaust manifold, and the ECU compensates for the extra air injected when it looks at the O2 sensor under closed loop. If that air isn't being injected due to removal of the solenoids or the air pump isn't there or working, the car will have lousy throttle tip-in and run rough. Found that one out on my car when I accidentally blew the AC fuse, which the air pump is on that circuit.
One way to test would be to unplug the O2 sensor and go for a drive. That forces the ECU into open loop all the time. Not good for fuel economy, but worth it for testing purposes.
Dale
08-02-07, 02:36 PM
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Dale,
I have the airpump removed (and ACV) and the AWS as well. I could test the ISC. I have a stock ECU as well...so, go ahead and give it a drive then without the O2 sensor? Would that allow the car to run smoother then? Is the only way to take care of the issue be to get a PFC? Thanks Dale! BTW, at what point with the O2 unplugged will I get a CEL? as soon as it hits open loop?
Trev
I have the airpump removed (and ACV) and the AWS as well. I could test the ISC. I have a stock ECU as well...so, go ahead and give it a drive then without the O2 sensor? Would that allow the car to run smoother then? Is the only way to take care of the issue be to get a PFC? Thanks Dale! BTW, at what point with the O2 unplugged will I get a CEL? as soon as it hits open loop?
Trev
08-02-07, 02:46 PM
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Yeah, if that's not the whole root of your problem, that's definitely not helping things!
The stock ECU will run with no O2 sensor, but your fuel economy will go in the toilet. With the PowerFC, if you disable the O2 sensor in the settings, the car will run great and have good fuel economy - I've been driving my car around like this for a long time.
Not sure when the ECU will throw a code for the O2 sensor, and I'm not sure if it's a code that will light the CE light.
Regardless, in hindsight, you really shouldn't have ditched the emissions controls with a stock ECU - it makes for a lot of problems.
Good luck!
Dale
The stock ECU will run with no O2 sensor, but your fuel economy will go in the toilet. With the PowerFC, if you disable the O2 sensor in the settings, the car will run great and have good fuel economy - I've been driving my car around like this for a long time.
Not sure when the ECU will throw a code for the O2 sensor, and I'm not sure if it's a code that will light the CE light.
Regardless, in hindsight, you really shouldn't have ditched the emissions controls with a stock ECU - it makes for a lot of problems.
Good luck!
Dale
08-02-07, 03:21 PM
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So you are saying I should do 1 of 2 things:
1. put emissions back on
2. Get a PFC.
From what I am understanding you say, the car should run better with the O2 unplugged with the emissions removed and the O2 unplugged. I could go ahead and get a PFC from a ubddy with a map of my mods and test that out...of course I will have to cut 4 wires to do that...
1. put emissions back on
2. Get a PFC.
From what I am understanding you say, the car should run better with the O2 unplugged with the emissions removed and the O2 unplugged. I could go ahead and get a PFC from a ubddy with a map of my mods and test that out...of course I will have to cut 4 wires to do that...
08-02-07, 03:54 PM
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I'd just test it with the O2 sensor disconnected - if it runs fine, great, you found your problem. Either put the emissions back on, drive with the O2 sensor unplugged and get poor gas mileage, or save up for a PowerFC. It's that simple.
Dale
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