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problem with brakes....please help....

Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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problem with brakes....please help....

ok so yesterday I changed my rotors and pads. put everythign back together, and now it seems that one of my calipers are clamping down on its own with out me pressing the breaks. why would this happen and what can I do to fix it?

also the ebrake really doesnt work, (this is a problem since before break change and didnt change with the new breaks) any way to tighten it? I can litterally be driving and pull it up and nothing will really happen.


thanks.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 02:15 PM
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calipers....which one? Front or rear?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 02:17 PM
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its hard to tell, sometimes it feels like front right sometimes it feels like rear right (pass side) i think its the rear though
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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anyone?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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could be an air bubble in your lines and your brakes need to be bled
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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if you have not read through this Write Up, you should. Hopefully it will help you.

DaleClark did a great job on this!

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=brakes
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:43 PM
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I did everything the same as he did, except for bleeding the breaks.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
I did everything the same as he did, except for bleeding the breaks.
air pockets try bleeding the brakes
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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just talked to my tech friend. he told me that one of the bump (nipple) on the pad my not be lined up with the groove of the caliper piston. he said since I didnt bleed or do anything with the brake fluid its probably not an air pocket. guess I gotta take my **** apart again and check that out.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
just talked to my tech friend. he told me that one of the bump (nipple) on the pad my not be lined up with the groove of the caliper piston. he said since I didnt bleed or do anything with the brake fluid its probably not an air pocket. guess I gotta take my **** apart again and check that out.
If it was one of the brake pad mounting tabs, you should be able to see it with the stock wheels on, or just by removing the rear wheels.

:-) neil
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:33 PM
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Did you remember to put the spring back in that spreads the rear pads? If not, the pads won't always return enough to prevent dragging when you lift off the pedal.

If it's actually creating enough pressure to slow that wheel, it's probably something else.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:45 PM
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Try www.rotaryheads.com section p. brake systems, it will tell you how to adjust the park brake!
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:58 PM
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there were no springs on the rear calipers. (im assuming your referring to the springs like the ones on the front) anyone have a pic of what it looks like?

oh and its not enough pressure to stop the wheel, just enough to make a noise and vibration that I know that something is wrong. but I can def feel it, but it does not lock the wheel up at all.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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on the rears did you twist the parking brake back in to the calliper?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
there were no springs on the rear calipers. (im assuming your referring to the springs like the ones on the front) anyone have a pic of what it looks like?

oh and its not enough pressure to stop the wheel, just enough to make a noise and vibration that I know that something is wrong. but I can def feel it, but it does not lock the wheel up at all.

If you look at the rear pads, you'll notice little holes on the outer side of the backing plates. There's a spring that goes between the opposing pads, pushing them apart at the leading edge. This helps the pads to return away from the rotor face when the brakes are released. Without this, the pads will sometimes drag along the rotor after you let off the brakes. I say "sometimes" because it doesn't always happen - probably a little binding of the tabs inside the bracket slots that makes the spring necessary sometimes, but not always.

This dragging can cause the pads and rotor to wear very quickly. Ask me how I know...

I have some springs laying around here somewhere. I'll post a photo tomorrow.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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Actually, a quick look at Dale's brake-job writeup and I found a photo that shows the spring (first photo). Note that it's on backwards, and Dale actually mentioned this in the writeup. He showed a pic of the resulting pad wear (second photo).
Attached Thumbnails problem with brakes....please help....-media_howtopics_brakejob_dsc03637.jpg   problem with brakes....please help....-media_howtopics_brakejob_dsc03638.jpg  
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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no that spring was not there on either of the rear brakes.

guess ill have to order some, either way, they were not there before I installed the new brakes, and did not grind/bind/or make noise before I changed the brakes
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
no that spring was not there on either of the rear brakes.

guess ill have to order some, either way, they were not there before I installed the new brakes, and did not grind/bind/or make noise before I changed the brakes

Like I said, "sometimes". I lost one of the springs while doing my pads recently (doh!), and the pads drag all the time on that corner. Got a nice wide groove worn into the rotor now, and the pads on that corner are pretty much toast after only 3 months. On my previous FD a couple years back, I lost one of the springs and that corner never had a problem with noise or accelerated wear. It won't always be a problem, but sometimes it is.

My theory is that the tabs on either end of the pads sometimes fit a little tighter in the slots on the bracket. Variation in manufacturing of the backing plates, or a difference between brands? I don't know.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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From: socal
Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
no that spring was not there on either of the rear brakes.

guess ill have to order some, either way, they were not there before I installed the new brakes, and did not grind/bind/or make noise before I changed the brakes
When you get the springs and take the brakes apart make sure to check the slide
pins in the bracket to make sure they move freely,those pins can seize up and
make the piston always push on the pad. I haven't done rear brakes on an RX7,
but on every floating caliper I've ever worked on,you can remove the pins,
clean them and grease them.
I like to use white lithium grease, do Not use anti seize.

Oh yeah,just a really light coat will do.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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^^^^^Scratch the above,I just saw the pic of the RX7 brakes,looks like the bolts are the pins.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 08:06 AM
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ok thanks everyone for your help. Ill let you guys know if I figure it out, im gonna try to order the spings asap.
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