Prepping for rebuild - what parts do I need?
09-09-17, 08:17 AM
#1
Prepping for rebuild - what parts do I need?
I need help figuring out what to buy and replace during my engine rebuild – please help me with my list of parts.
So unfortunately I have a coolant seal problem just 2 months after buying my FD. I plan on pulling the engine soon and taking it to a local rotary shop, rotary resurrection. It looks like they'll do the rebuild for me with these parts, for around $1800 if housing and rotors are in good shape:
- OEM 2mm apex seals (I'll request these over Atkins)
- OEM corner seals, plugs, springs
- OEM coolant seals and dowelpin o-rings
- Side seals, springs
- Atkins viton oil control rings and e-shaft thermel pellet
- OEM front, rear main seals
In addition, I am planning on replacing:
- Clutch (ACT kit)
- Vacuum hoses (silicon)
- Exhaust & intake manifold gaskets
- Precat with downpipe
- Water pump? Oil pump?
- Engine/transmission mounts?
- Anything else?
My turbos are also caked in oil on the outside and there is oil pooling in the bottom of my intercooler, but they still spool correctly so I guess they are still useable for now.
I don't want to cut corners in the rebuild so anything I should replace, I will. The car is stock now except for the radiator (koyo), intercooler, catback exhaust, and AST. Thanks
Edit - Additions:
- OMP lines
- Heater hose plastic quick disconnect
So unfortunately I have a coolant seal problem just 2 months after buying my FD. I plan on pulling the engine soon and taking it to a local rotary shop, rotary resurrection. It looks like they'll do the rebuild for me with these parts, for around $1800 if housing and rotors are in good shape:
- OEM 2mm apex seals (I'll request these over Atkins)
- OEM corner seals, plugs, springs
- OEM coolant seals and dowelpin o-rings
- Side seals, springs
- Atkins viton oil control rings and e-shaft thermel pellet
- OEM front, rear main seals
In addition, I am planning on replacing:
- Clutch (ACT kit)
- Vacuum hoses (silicon)
- Exhaust & intake manifold gaskets
- Precat with downpipe
- Water pump? Oil pump?
- Engine/transmission mounts?
- Anything else?
My turbos are also caked in oil on the outside and there is oil pooling in the bottom of my intercooler, but they still spool correctly so I guess they are still useable for now.
I don't want to cut corners in the rebuild so anything I should replace, I will. The car is stock now except for the radiator (koyo), intercooler, catback exhaust, and AST. Thanks
Edit - Additions:
- OMP lines
- Heater hose plastic quick disconnect
Last edited by derSchwamm; 09-09-17 at 09:31 AM.
09-09-17, 08:38 AM
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Sounds like you have a good list going there. Few points and recommendations -
- If you plan on bumping up power into the 300's and beyond, I would go with a better apex seal, like RX Parts or Goopy. They can take a lot more abuse than the stock apex seals.
- For the clutch, I really like Exedy clutches. If you are staying near stock, their stock type clutch is excellent in quality and drivability. Going up a little, the stage 1 clutch uses a full face disc and a heavier pressure plate, it's easy to drive and holds a lot of power and is well made.
- If you have the budget, get the downpipe ceramic coated. About $120-150, makes a massive difference in underwood heat.
- New water pump is worth doing. Also get a new OEM thermostat.
- Oil pumps rarely if ever fail, they are typically reusable.
- The exhaust gaskets are CRAZY expensive, see if they are needing replacement before buying them. They typically last a VERY long time.
I would let him tell you what the engine needs after he pulls it and goes through everything, RR has been doing this for a long time and knows his stuff. No sense buying parts that don't need to be replaced.
The good thing is a water pumper engine is typically a good rebuild candidate, worst case you have to replace an iron but many times the rotors and rotor housings are good.
Some other things to think about -
- OMP lines, they are good to replace with new stock lines on a rebuild. They easily last 100,000 miles. Many times they will break or be close to breaking when you go through the motor. Don't be tempted by the stainless braided OMP lines, get the OEM part.
- Go through the coolant hoses and replace any that are sketchy. If you have the budget, get all of them replaced. Also replace the plastic heater hose quick disconnect on the driver's side of the block.
- Get the FC fan switch, it's worth doing and now is a good time.
Big thing to remember is there is literally no end of "While you are in there" crap you can do during a rebuild. Try and focus on what is truly important and what could bite you in the ***, over what would be nice to do. The turbos, if they are barfing oil, that may be worth replacing or you could wait and do the turbos later on down the road.
Dale
- If you plan on bumping up power into the 300's and beyond, I would go with a better apex seal, like RX Parts or Goopy. They can take a lot more abuse than the stock apex seals.
- For the clutch, I really like Exedy clutches. If you are staying near stock, their stock type clutch is excellent in quality and drivability. Going up a little, the stage 1 clutch uses a full face disc and a heavier pressure plate, it's easy to drive and holds a lot of power and is well made.
- If you have the budget, get the downpipe ceramic coated. About $120-150, makes a massive difference in underwood heat.
- New water pump is worth doing. Also get a new OEM thermostat.
- Oil pumps rarely if ever fail, they are typically reusable.
- The exhaust gaskets are CRAZY expensive, see if they are needing replacement before buying them. They typically last a VERY long time.
I would let him tell you what the engine needs after he pulls it and goes through everything, RR has been doing this for a long time and knows his stuff. No sense buying parts that don't need to be replaced.
The good thing is a water pumper engine is typically a good rebuild candidate, worst case you have to replace an iron but many times the rotors and rotor housings are good.
Some other things to think about -
- OMP lines, they are good to replace with new stock lines on a rebuild. They easily last 100,000 miles. Many times they will break or be close to breaking when you go through the motor. Don't be tempted by the stainless braided OMP lines, get the OEM part.
- Go through the coolant hoses and replace any that are sketchy. If you have the budget, get all of them replaced. Also replace the plastic heater hose quick disconnect on the driver's side of the block.
- Get the FC fan switch, it's worth doing and now is a good time.
Big thing to remember is there is literally no end of "While you are in there" crap you can do during a rebuild. Try and focus on what is truly important and what could bite you in the ***, over what would be nice to do. The turbos, if they are barfing oil, that may be worth replacing or you could wait and do the turbos later on down the road.
Dale
09-09-17, 09:24 AM
#3
Sounds like you have a good list going there. Few points and recommendations -
- If you plan on bumping up power into the 300's and beyond, I would go with a better apex seal, like RX Parts or Goopy. They can take a lot more abuse than the stock apex seals.
- For the clutch, I really like Exedy clutches. If you are staying near stock, their stock type clutch is excellent in quality and drivability. Going up a little, the stage 1 clutch uses a full face disc and a heavier pressure plate, it's easy to drive and holds a lot of power and is well made.
- If you have the budget, get the downpipe ceramic coated. About $120-150, makes a massive difference in underwood heat.
- New water pump is worth doing. Also get a new OEM thermostat.
- Oil pumps rarely if ever fail, they are typically reusable.
- The exhaust gaskets are CRAZY expensive, see if they are needing replacement before buying them. They typically last a VERY long time.
I would let him tell you what the engine needs after he pulls it and goes through everything, RR has been doing this for a long time and knows his stuff. No sense buying parts that don't need to be replaced.
The good thing is a water pumper engine is typically a good rebuild candidate, worst case you have to replace an iron but many times the rotors and rotor housings are good.
Some other things to think about -
- OMP lines, they are good to replace with new stock lines on a rebuild. They easily last 100,000 miles. Many times they will break or be close to breaking when you go through the motor. Don't be tempted by the stainless braided OMP lines, get the OEM part.
- Go through the coolant hoses and replace any that are sketchy. If you have the budget, get all of them replaced. Also replace the plastic heater hose quick disconnect on the driver's side of the block.
- Get the FC fan switch, it's worth doing and now is a good time.
Big thing to remember is there is literally no end of "While you are in there" crap you can do during a rebuild. Try and focus on what is truly important and what could bite you in the ***, over what would be nice to do. The turbos, if they are barfing oil, that may be worth replacing or you could wait and do the turbos later on down the road.
Dale
- If you plan on bumping up power into the 300's and beyond, I would go with a better apex seal, like RX Parts or Goopy. They can take a lot more abuse than the stock apex seals.
- For the clutch, I really like Exedy clutches. If you are staying near stock, their stock type clutch is excellent in quality and drivability. Going up a little, the stage 1 clutch uses a full face disc and a heavier pressure plate, it's easy to drive and holds a lot of power and is well made.
- If you have the budget, get the downpipe ceramic coated. About $120-150, makes a massive difference in underwood heat.
- New water pump is worth doing. Also get a new OEM thermostat.
- Oil pumps rarely if ever fail, they are typically reusable.
- The exhaust gaskets are CRAZY expensive, see if they are needing replacement before buying them. They typically last a VERY long time.
I would let him tell you what the engine needs after he pulls it and goes through everything, RR has been doing this for a long time and knows his stuff. No sense buying parts that don't need to be replaced.
The good thing is a water pumper engine is typically a good rebuild candidate, worst case you have to replace an iron but many times the rotors and rotor housings are good.
Some other things to think about -
- OMP lines, they are good to replace with new stock lines on a rebuild. They easily last 100,000 miles. Many times they will break or be close to breaking when you go through the motor. Don't be tempted by the stainless braided OMP lines, get the OEM part.
- Go through the coolant hoses and replace any that are sketchy. If you have the budget, get all of them replaced. Also replace the plastic heater hose quick disconnect on the driver's side of the block.
- Get the FC fan switch, it's worth doing and now is a good time.
Big thing to remember is there is literally no end of "While you are in there" crap you can do during a rebuild. Try and focus on what is truly important and what could bite you in the ***, over what would be nice to do. The turbos, if they are barfing oil, that may be worth replacing or you could wait and do the turbos later on down the road.
Dale
I'm glad you mentioned the clutch. I have always only used Exedy and the best clutch I have ever had is the stage 1 Exedy in my FB. However, the same clutch in my protege is impossible to shift smoothly for some reason, and I didn't want to take my chances with the FD. It seems most people think ACT is the best and it only cost a little more, so that's what I got. I can always send it back though and go with Exedy like usual.
I've already replaced the thermostat and checked all the coolant lines after my overheating incident, but I'll add OMP lines to my list. The coolant hoses are pliant and don't leak so I'll wait on those.
Very soon after the rebuild I plan on installing a PowerFC so the car handles the downpipe, catback, etc. better so I think that'll cover the 'fan switch' part, since the PowerFC can handle the fans. I know people say you can have a downpipe with the stock ECM but I'd rather be on the safe side.
I have a downpipe that came with the car when I bought it
, and it looks like it's already ceramic coated to me. I'll attach a picture so someone can tell me I am wrong if so
downpipe
09-10-17, 08:21 AM
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
It does look like that downpipe has some sort of ceramic coating, hard to tell. Could just be high temp paint. If you can't scratch it, it's probably ceramic.
The PowerFC only has control of 1 fan speed, you would still want the fan switch. Also, you will need the Datalogit to program the fan speed in the PowerFC, but you could find someone with a Datalogit and have them change that.
Dale
The PowerFC only has control of 1 fan speed, you would still want the fan switch. Also, you will need the Datalogit to program the fan speed in the PowerFC, but you could find someone with a Datalogit and have them change that.
Dale
09-11-17, 05:26 PM
#5
I'm struggling with gaskets a bit. Assuming all the internals are taken care of, what will I need to put the engine back in the car? So far I've got this:
- Intake to engine gasket
- Intake gasket (middle)
- Oil pan gasket, if needed
- Turbo-to-intake gaskets (4)
I'm hoping to reuse the exhaust gaskets due to cost, unless there are some in poor shape or that typically can't be reused.
Anything for the oil metering system or oil coolers, or other stuff I'm missing?
- Intake to engine gasket
- Intake gasket (middle)
- Oil pan gasket, if needed
- Turbo-to-intake gaskets (4)
I'm hoping to reuse the exhaust gaskets due to cost, unless there are some in poor shape or that typically can't be reused.
Anything for the oil metering system or oil coolers, or other stuff I'm missing?
09-12-17, 09:31 AM
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
LIM to engine gasket is good. LIM to UIM is optional, many times it's fine, if it's in good shape.
The oil pan is typically sealed with just sealant, no gasket. If you want to hurt your brain read up on sealing the oil pan, it's a black art that no one has mastered
.
The little turbo intake gaskets are worth doing, if they are the metal gaskets they're usually reusable, the original paper gaskets are crap and should always be replaced.
9 times out of 10 exhaust gaskets are reusable.
OMP lines, get new lines and maybe crush washers.
Also, get the metal front cover gasket, that thing works awesome. It costs more ($40 I think) but it's well worth it.
Dale
The oil pan is typically sealed with just sealant, no gasket. If you want to hurt your brain read up on sealing the oil pan, it's a black art that no one has mastered
.The little turbo intake gaskets are worth doing, if they are the metal gaskets they're usually reusable, the original paper gaskets are crap and should always be replaced.
9 times out of 10 exhaust gaskets are reusable.
OMP lines, get new lines and maybe crush washers.
Also, get the metal front cover gasket, that thing works awesome. It costs more ($40 I think) but it's well worth it.
Dale
