I got a CEL code 27 (metering pump). I am pretty sure it the shitty engine harness. Now the harness is over a $1000 so I figured why not just spend the money on the power FC and just run premix. Here are some of the questions I have:

How to premix? Do you just dump a bunch of two cycle oil into the gas thank before you pump gas? Or do you actually have to do it more complicated in like a can or something?

Ratio of fuel to gas?

Does the the apexi power fc actually eliminate the signals and wiring from and to oil injection system in the RX7? So it mandatory to run premix with it or you can still run the stock oil injection if you choose to do so?

If I premix can I run synthetic in my engine?

Thanks for any help guys,
PS do checkout my custom water to air intercooler setup I did for just $300

 

Yes

No

I believe the PowerFC will run the OMP if you want. Unlike the stock ECU, it will not go bananas if the OMP is not present.

Sure, if you happened to be in the crowd who were concerned with synthetic not burning in the combustion chamber. (I personally have no issue running synthetic on a stock oil injection system)

Dave

 

If the shitty engine harness if your problem, it will continue to be a problem regardless of whether you have a PFC or stock ECU and you will eventually have a problem with other systems such as boost control, temp sensors, fuel injectors (!!) etc.

Fix the problem and you'll be a lot happier than if you just mask the symptom.

Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda can get you one for probably less than that $1k amount you are talking about. Give him a call. His number is in the FAQ thread.

 

It hasn't been mentioned yet but the 'SEARCH' button will probably turn up 20+ pages about the subject.

1/2oz per 1 Gallon = daily driven
1oz per 1 Gallon = let it eat!

 

harness from Ray is like 7 something not 1000

 

^+1

pulling out the OMP won't solve your problems. If you have a problem spending $1k on a new wiring harness, then just get one used. The for sale section has a lot of what you'll probably need, or if not contact Fritz Flynn, he always seems to have everything people don't have.

 

I just downloaded the FSM for my FD and in there are pretty detailed instructions on how to figure out if I have a bad MOP/OMP or bad wiring. Im gonna go poke around with a volt meter (im pretty good with electrical) and see what the deal is and then decide.

Reason why I think it is the harness is because I installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and to get the new nipple onto the fuel rail I had to push down on the wiring harness because it was in the way. When the FPR was finally installed I got the code 27 OMP ****, so I think when I pushed it down wiring inside the harness might have cracked because the harness felt very very stiff and dry rotted.

ANY THOUGHTS, COMMENTS, MORE THEN WELCOME

 

I'm assuming you already checked the brittle oil lines, and don't have a puddle of oil on top of your engine from them being broken? If it is your OMP either just remove and run premix, which I would recommend you do anyway, or buy a working used one and swap it in. I have a good working one sitting in my garage. lol

 

+2 and I think they are around $750, but I could be mistaken.

+1. I just picked up a great condition used harness for under $400.

Don't forget this is a 17yr old car and the engine harness is exposed to a LOT of heat and most everyone of us is probably in need of replacing it soon. If you do some more reading on here you will find that it is a good idea to premix anyway not just only after removing the OMP. I also have been running full synthetic oil WITH my OMP (and premix) and have not had any issues.

 

Replace the harness. They're only good for 60-100k in a stock engine bay.

It's a reliability problem that's going to happen. Not if, just when. And this OMP code is a very friendly problem to have - other problems that might occur while driving will leave you stranded (water temp sensor signal) or damage the motor.

Dave

 

hey how much you want for the omp pump in case I need it?

I know it would be nice to replace the harness but I don't feel like removing the engine till it needs a rebuild. When it does then I'll replace the harness. No oil on top of the engine from omp lines.
Will be doing testing here in about an hour to figure out if it's the pump or the harness. It may not even be the harness

 

You don't have to pull the motor to replace the harness. Though it would make it easier. If your OMP ends up being bad send me a pm. I just took my working one off and it is just laying around. I will make you a killer deal on it.

 

I just tested the wiring and the OMP like the FSM tells you and it looks like its my OMP since it tested bad and wiring tested good. My OMP tested the pins did have the 14-36ohms on the pins it needed but where it need to have an OPEN connection my OMP showed NO connection. If anyone has ever tested and OMP with a volt meter and can tell me anything about it please jump in anytime. Thanks

 

My omp pump and sensor and the wiring all tested fine. Only problem is that the OMP sensor wire called "V0" which should have 1.1v at idle does, but the voltage should go up with the engine RPM and on mine it does not. Sensor always has 1.1volt no matter what RPMs my engine is at.

Soooo I just bought a PowerFc. Bought the commander for $120 and powerfc for $540 shipped. I got so many problems with this stupid OEM ecu that this just couldn't wait. I see why people recommend the PFC as one of the first, if not the first upgrade you should do.

HERE IS EVERYTHING I'M GONNA FIX BY INSTALLING THE PFC ON MY FD
- Bad OMP, no sense fixing it when I wanna run premix anyways and synthetic OIL in MY engine so with PFC this should be easy
- Super rich idle, I should be able to fix that now with the PFC no problem
- Full 3" exhaust with no cat (megnaflow straight through muffler in its place) so Im sure I need more fuel
- Huge water to air intercooler (core size 10' X 10" x 9") so def very low intake temp at boost, so again need more fuel
- All aluminum intakes and turbo piping for much much better flow then the stock, this alone can give you great HP numbers and its easy to do. Stock piping (especially the intakes and intercooler elbows) couldn't have been designed worse. They make so much turbulence that it slows your air flow down by a lot, kills lots of ponies and throttle response time

 

I just installed a brand new PFC last weekend the car runs totally different...in a great way. The base map is fantastic. I'm now neck deep in the vacuum hose simplification mod and deleting all of my emission parts. Leaving the air-pump in place for now until I buy a dead pulley to fill its place. Also, I'm completely disconnecting my OMP system (premix). For now it will stay on the engine but unplugged cause the PFC doesn't care. No more dirty oil dripping on my triangles . Your gonna love it. Best grand I ever spent on this car.

VERY IMPORTANT---you must go to the PFC section on this site and download Dale Clarks "PFC FAQs" located in the sticky at the top. You must read all of it before installation! There are very specific mods you must perform prior to installation.

 

Search the FAQs and read up on BOOST CREEP...and how to keep it under control. The PFC is a good mod and will allow you to add fuel if you have the pressure and injectors, but it's not a solution to Creep.
I'd want to see a dyno sheet on that. At stock boost levels, which is what they were designed for, I think they're fine. Just not as pretty.

 

yea I already got it, so I know about the 4 wires and the idle learning procedure. I'm not new to tunning, I've been tunning b-series Hondas with Hondata and Apexi VAFC for years. I am new to the the world of rotary but so far loving it.

Removing all the emission and vacuum likes is something I would LOVE to do after the PFC. I'm one of those people that loves a clean engine which is why I'm a Honda lover. Lol when I saw the "rats nest" I was honestlly shocked that Jap engeeners people that make the most reliable cars on earth because they always designed them as simple as possibe would allow rotary's accessories to make it unreliable. Whole point of the rotary was engine has way less parts so it should be a very very reliable engine & and then they go messing it up with the add ons and a million vacuum lines