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So I found the best way is to NOT try and rename your files, use the default filename from FC-Edit. Also in FC-Edit there's an option to save dat files with the log, so whenever you save the log it will save the dat as well with the same name.
I did try naming the maps "dale April 2023" or whatever and had some oddness, not sure if it's something I'm doing or just something odd with FC-Tweak. Using the default file names made it super easy.
Also in the first screen when you pick what file you will work with the dat's that have an associated log file will be a different color (either yellow or blue, can't remember).
Dale
i also sort the folder by date modified, so the one you just did is on top.
"if you want to know the easiest way to do something, ask the laziest guy"
As mentioned above, I always double check the date and the times stamp on the files to make sure I am flashing the correct adjusted map. I will also then move my dat and txt log files into a "completed auto tune" folder and move my older power FC map into a separate "old auto tune" folder as well. If you leave everything in the root directory, it could get messy.
Last edited by iceman4357; Apr 24, 2023 at 02:50 PM.
As mentioned above, I always double check the date and the times stamp on the files to make sure I am flashing the correct adjusted map. I will also then move my day and txt log files into a "completed auto tune" folder and move my older power FC map into a separate "old auto tune" folder as well. If you leave everything in the root directory, it could get messy.
Regarding how long it takes. If you mean how long does it take to load the log file and have it auto tune, then its literally a matter of minutes. Driving to create the logs needed to auto tune takes the time.
Maybe I should make a little video walkthrough for everyone. Might make it a lot easier to explain.
Attached a copy of the manual, he does routinely update the software and the manual so the link above is the best place to get the latest version. It is shared on Google Drive I think.
When you drive around logging with FC-Edit, saving the log out is near instantaneous.
Then you go into FC-Tweak, load the map/log, it takes maybe 5 seconds to analyze the log and apply whatever changes you want. Save the map, then load the map into the PFC. This process takes no time at all.
Regarding how long it takes. If you mean how long does it take to load the log file and have it auto tune, then its literally a matter of minutes. Driving to create the logs needed to auto tune takes the time.
Maybe I should make a little video walkthrough for everyone. Might make it a lot easier to explain.
Sorry for the stupid question, but can you just download the log into a laptop and then run the software and upload to the PFC without getting out of the car?
And then repeat the process over again?
I have no idea what connector the Datalogit uses.
Can you run it through an adapter for USB or USB-C?
Sorry for the stupid question, but can you just download the log into a laptop and then run the software and upload to the PFC without getting out of the car?
And then repeat the process over again?
I have no idea what connector the Datalogit uses.
Can you run it through an adapter for USB or USB-C?
I keep the laptop in my car and do autotune. When logging from teh Datalogit, you will have a serial to USB going to your laptop. Save the log from FC Edit, immediately open FC tune, Autotune the file/export. Then open FC Edit, open the new map and "write" to the power FC.
Then repeat for different cells, or same if your map is really far off.
So, the Datalogit is still old school and has an RS-232 serial port. You get a good USB to serial adapter and hook it to your laptop.
You have FC-Edit, the Datalogit software, on the laptop. That does the logging, loading and saving maps, etc.
Then you have FC-Tweak which takes the map and the log and tweaks/autotunes it for you.
So you warm up the car, fire up FC-Edit, start logging. Drive for 20 minutes. Save the log and it saves the map with the log.
Fire up FC-Tweak, load the log/map in, let it autotune, it will save a new map out. Use FC-Edit to save it into the PFC. Repeat.
Yep you can do this 100% driving around. I did one logging session, pulled over into a parking lot, autotuned, loaded the map into the PFC (it takes like 3 seconds to load a map) and went logging again.
Some of the process is kind of odd, I've asked Xavier if he ever considered building in functionality to FC-Tweak so FC-Edit is no longer needed. That may be down the road, right now there's not enough available memory to do everything it needs.
Please excuse my terrible skills at being a narrator, but I made a quick video that will hopefully explain everything a little better. You can see the time/date stamp on each of the files, which is important if you dont create separate folders like I did in the photos below.
AFTER completing each auto tune, I made a folder that I drop the DAT and TXT files into. This makes FC Tweak a lot less messy and straight forward. Similarly, after I flash my new auto tuned map, I move my old map into Auto-Tuned Complete.
Was able to download the zip file / manual and understand I need to get the Pro version of FC Tweak.
Is FC-Edit available from a link to DL or only through the Google Group?
Was able to download manual/unregistered program with plans to get the pro version.
Do you run your WB sensor off a bung? or off the tailpipe?
Now just to cobble the parts (datalogit/cables/02 sensor) Looking forward to this project and have not been this excited about getting the RX-7 back on the road again in a while.
FYI Xavier is great at communication, and has been very helpful.
Was able to download manual/unregistered program with plans to get the pro version.
Do you run your WB sensor off a bung? or off the tailpipe?
Now just to cobble the parts (datalogit/cables/02 sensor) Looking forward to this project and have not been this excited about getting the RX-7 back on the road again in a while.
FYI Xavier is great at communication, and has been very helpful.
Install into your midpipe before the cat. A lot of people put an O2 in the downpipe, which will not last very long with the amount of heat our cars produce. Most O2 instructions recommend 18" downstream from turbo manifold.
How do you have your wideband setup Dale? I've got mine setup exactly how Xavier says to do it in the FC-Tweak manual and im still getting the "Noisy wideband ground" & "UEGO range <18.0:1" error. I'm using a AEM 30-0300 with its polynomials set to what the manual says & have tried multiple grounding points.
How do you have your wideband setup Dale? I've got mine setup exactly how Xavier says to do it in the FC-Tweak manual and im still getting the "Noisy wideband ground" & "UEGO range <18.0:1" error. I'm using a AEM 30-0300 with its polynomials set to what the manual says & have tried multiple grounding points.
I had these errors among others. Dale gave me some pointers at DGRR on getting a better log session but haven't had time to give it another shot. Interested to see what these really mean and how to correct.
I had these errors among others. Dale gave me some pointers at DGRR on getting a better log session but haven't had time to give it another shot. Interested to see what these really mean and how to correct.
You can find out which errors mean what and how to correct them on Page 79 of the FC-Tweak manual, my issue is that I've tried correcting them to no avail, let me know what errors your getting and I can probably help you out with them
Are there any options for using upgraded twins like BNR's?
Or will FC tweak work fine with such a setup?
it'll do fine with that. there are two parts to the software.
the Tweak part takes your mod list, and runs through the map looking for things like negative timing split (unless you turn it on), cells where the injectors have too low a duty cycle to be stable, big changes in timing, the idle speeds, fan temps, etc etc
then part 2, the auto tune compares the target AFR map with your log and will make adjustments until it hits the target AFRs (take a few runs)