2RotorsNaDream

iTrader: (7)

OK a while ago my brake light started lighting up, whenever I floor the car it would go away. I took this as one of the first signs the alternator was going bad. Now last night the car would not start up. I got a jump and it started and I was on my way. Today again the car wont start so I get it jumped and leave it idling for about 20 minutes, turn the car off and try to start it again right away and absolutely nothing again. The battery is about a month old, the starter is clicking so I'm assuming its the alternator but wouldnt the car turn off after a few minutes of idling if it was? I'm looking for second opinions but I'm pretty sure its the alternator. And anyone got suggestions on where to get a good alternator at? I know AutoZone has lifetime warranties on them but I also heard you'll be using the warranty quite often if you get it from them. Any help is really appreciated, thanks alot.

HawaiianRedMako

Probe the battery terminals with a (VOM) Volt Ohm Meter set at DC volts, set it at 20 DC volts, the battery should read at least 12 volts. Start the FD and again probe the battery, it should at least read 14 volts if the alternator is charging.

If not, try to "jiggle" the terminal at the alternator, sometimes it gets loose and see if the VOM DC level "jumps". If still no reading above the static battery level of 12 volts, then most likely the alternator is shot.

There are places that do rewound the alternator if you don't want to spend that hard earned cash on a new one. Good luck

wilson94T

iTrader: (2)

One way is to put a meter on the car to load test the alternator. if that shows the alternator is bad, you have two things to consider.

1. you can buy (or borrow) a new alterntor and see if this resolves the problem.

2. If you have done any modifications to the car recently, (like changing the oil coolers, or removing the PS pump) you'll want to verify that you have not compromised any grounding in the car. The alternator will not charge the battery correctly if the main harnes is not properly grounded. There is a bracket that holds the stock oil cooler lines and also holds the main ground for the wire harnes. I've seen situations where that was not properly reattached and a grounding issue made it look like an alternator was requried.

Basically, if you're alternator doesn't increase beyond say, 30amps, then you've a situatino where the unit is either bad, or the trigger to tell it to up the power is not being flipped. If it's the latter, that can be a ground.

Changing the altnernator can be done very quickly. If you have a friend with a 3rd gen near by, you might as well try that.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

If you need it rebuilt I can do my 140 amp upgrade for you. They work real well in these cars.

Snowblind113

How much does the upgrade cost? Possibly interested

7dust

iTrader: (14)

You mentioned Auto Zone.

The Auto Zone by my house does free alternator testing. I pulled my alternator off a while back when I suspected it was going south.

I took it to Auto Zone and they put it on their machine. I could hear the alternator whining (which was impossible to hear while it was on the car running). The alternator failed. I had a spare alternator and they tested it too. It passed and I swapped them out. No problem after that.

flyboyjuge

I usually check an alternator by starting the car and sticking a socket on the back, it should stick to it if its doing what its supposed to. Also you can buy a alternator rebuild kit for around 20 bucks. It is very simple to rebuild. The brushes inside may be worn down.

roland88

I got a new alternator today. All my warning lights started to come on. As mentioned, make sure your terminals are tight - meter the battery (or "B" on the alternator). Should be 12.2V or there abouts before ignition. Should be 14.4V at idle, my old one went to 14V on initial idle, then slowly dropped to 12.2V - probably the regulator within the alternator.

I didn't find it a quick and easy job to replace it, since I didn't want to disassemble too much - had a heap of trouble trying to jiggle it in and out of between the inlet and turbo pipes - and getting the belt back on was a bitch.

I didn't muck around with repairs, just got a nice shiny new one from here: http://www.baxters.com.au/index.php?...tails&id=12746

rd_turbo

iTrader: (4)

When replacing your alternator, check the wires at the large connector at the back. There are a lot of FDs out there with crispy and often cracked wires there just itching to touch each other.

2RotorsNaDream

iTrader: (7)

It ended up being the brand new battery. Everything was good when I checked the alternator so I borrowed a battery, started right up after. Now the place I bought the battery from wont return it because its been 36 days and their return policy is 30 days, so I gotta go through the battery companys warranty dept.