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porting waste gate Question???

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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 01:21 PM
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Question porting waste gate Question???

I have my turbos taking apart and i am struggling on how/what everyone uses to port the waste gate (ex. CNC, Dill Mill) if you could please help me out that would be great!!!!! thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 01:29 PM
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 01:37 PM
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how long does it take? and do you just go to a hardware store and buy a one? also how do you know when your at 1.24"? thanks a ton
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 01:40 PM
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I've had good luck with a die grinder and carbide bits. It goes pretty quick really.

It will probably take about a half hour max.

to mark the hole, I just used some white spray paint and sprayed it on with the door closed. Once it dries a little bit, open the door and port away. Just remember to leave some material for the door to seal against.

Last edited by ISUposs; Apr 23, 2004 at 01:43 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 01:44 PM
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Originally posted by ISUposs
I've had good luck with a die grinder and carbide bits. It goes pretty quick really.
so you went and bought a 1.24" bit? didnt that cost a **** load?
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 01:56 PM
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no, they are something around 1/2" You just free hand a circle.
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 04:31 PM
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Rotary die grinder is about $20 at Lowes or Home depot and the "single cut" carbide burr that you should be using is about $10. You want a single cut to port the wastegate and you also use a single cut for portng the hot side of housings. The double cuts are for porting the irons.
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 05:59 PM
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i got it done already. thanks guys
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 10:28 PM
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anyone have photos?
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 12:07 AM
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for the 2nd gen guys as long as the flapper door covers 75% of the hole yours fine.. wont have to worry about creep anymore
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 12:09 AM
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bah that was me that said that..
keeps login me in as others
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 04:26 AM
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***ok im bringing this back from the dead cause its time to port my wastegate as well.***

so is 1.24" the correct size??? ive noticed that the wastegate flapper is loose and can move around a good amount... i dont want to port it so much that the door happens to wiggle itself into a position that it no longer seals. im taking these things apart tomorow and either getting some tools to do the porting myself, or taking it to a shop tuesday.

my last question is, since everything will be apart, is there any other porting/smoothing i can do to the hot sides to increase flow and or efficiancy??? im not opposed to doing a little experimenting as i have a second set of hot sides etc. to swap in if i royally screw up. i noticed a few places that could be smoothed, and some major bends which (if there is enough metal to do this) could be recontoured to increase flow. im meerly speculating at this point so i wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this before i go ruing a set of twins. -heath
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 04:30 PM
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^
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 07:36 PM
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well i went to 4 shops in my area and no one will do it. home depot is quite far away from me so before i lug myself out there i want to make sure that i have a list of everything i will need..... im a bit confused as to what exactly i need to do this. the picture that im using as reference does not look as if it was done freehand
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 08:05 PM
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
the picture that im using as reference does not look as if it was done freehand
It wasn't.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 02:48 PM
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where can find the guideline teaching people how to porting stock wastegate"?
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jimlab
It wasn't.
care to elaborate? unfortunatly i dont have an arsenal of metal cuttin tools on hand as yourself
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
care to elaborate? unfortunatly i dont have an arsenal of metal cuttin tools on hand as yourself
It was done on a mill, but I didn't have a mill back in '97. Find a local machine shop if you don't want to try to Dremel it out by hand.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 04:06 PM
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well i sent it in to a machine shop and they fucked it up. i told them *specifically* 1.24" ... there seemed to be some miscomunication as they wrote 1.25 +/- on it. IF it seals it will be quite close. if the door wiggles into one position it wont seal, in the other position it will (barely). so now what? ill just get no boost i suppose

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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 04:15 PM
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Is that a massive crack underneath the wastegate door? Your housing may have been shot to begin with.

However, they should have used a boring bar to open up the hole to precise tolerances. I suspect they just used a 1 1/4" end mill because it was easiest. Check the fit and see if there's enough overlap to make it usable. In the worst case scenario, you'll have some blow-by that will release some exhaust energy, but whether or not it will noticeably affect boost response or level is debatable.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 04:29 PM
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yeah thats a (somewhat) massive crack... but its the best housing out of the 3 that i have. arrg... without spending $2500 on a new set of turbos im not sure i can do much better. oh well, at this point i dont care and just want to sell the car.... ive got bigger and better things to worry about!

hmmm you know what, maybe i should just forego all of this turbo rotary crap and follow your lead jim with a *reliable* motor in the FD. the $$ that im spending on parts to keep these FD's going (and fixing the problems they create) could be going toward a lightweight V* block. im begining to get frustrated just maintaining my dads FD (and i can only imagine what problems ill run into with the 20b in mine regarding upkeep).

thanks for listening to me vent.

Last edited by RotorMotor; Aug 9, 2004 at 04:35 PM.
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