porting waste gate Question???
porting waste gate Question???
04-23-04, 01:40 PM
#4
I've had good luck with a die grinder and carbide bits. It goes pretty quick really.
It will probably take about a half hour max.
to mark the hole, I just used some white spray paint and sprayed it on with the door closed. Once it dries a little bit, open the door and port away. Just remember to leave some material for the door to seal against.
It will probably take about a half hour max.
to mark the hole, I just used some white spray paint and sprayed it on with the door closed. Once it dries a little bit, open the door and port away. Just remember to leave some material for the door to seal against.
Last edited by ISUposs; 04-23-04 at 01:43 PM.
04-23-04, 04:31 PM
#7
Rotary die grinder is about $20 at Lowes or Home depot and the "single cut" carbide burr that you should be using is about $10. You want a single cut to port the wastegate and you also use a single cut for portng the hot side of housings. The double cuts are for porting the irons.
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08-02-04, 04:26 AM
#12
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***ok im bringing this back from the dead cause its time to port my wastegate as well.***
so is 1.24" the correct size??? ive noticed that the wastegate flapper is loose and can move around a good amount... i dont want to port it so much that the door happens to wiggle itself into a position that it no longer seals. im taking these things apart tomorow and either getting some tools to do the porting myself, or taking it to a shop tuesday.
my last question is, since everything will be apart, is there any other porting/smoothing i can do to the hot sides to increase flow and or efficiancy??? im not opposed to doing a little experimenting as i have a second set of hot sides etc. to swap in if i royally screw up. i noticed a few places that could be smoothed, and some major bends which (if there is enough metal to do this) could be recontoured to increase flow. im meerly speculating at this point so i wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this before i go ruing a set of twins. -heath
so is 1.24" the correct size??? ive noticed that the wastegate flapper is loose and can move around a good amount... i dont want to port it so much that the door happens to wiggle itself into a position that it no longer seals. im taking these things apart tomorow and either getting some tools to do the porting myself, or taking it to a shop tuesday.
my last question is, since everything will be apart, is there any other porting/smoothing i can do to the hot sides to increase flow and or efficiancy??? im not opposed to doing a little experimenting as i have a second set of hot sides etc. to swap in if i royally screw up. i noticed a few places that could be smoothed, and some major bends which (if there is enough metal to do this) could be recontoured to increase flow. im meerly speculating at this point so i wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this before i go ruing a set of twins. -heath
08-02-04, 07:36 PM
#14
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well i went to 4 shops in my area and no one will do it. home depot is quite far away from me so before i lug myself out there i want to make sure that i have a list of everything i will need..... im a bit confused as to what exactly i need to do this. the picture that im using as reference does not look as if it was done freehand
08-04-04, 04:02 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
care to elaborate? unfortunatly i dont have an arsenal of metal cuttin tools on hand as yourself 
08-09-04, 04:06 PM
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well i sent it in to a machine shop and they fucked it up. i told them *specifically* 1.24" ... there seemed to be some miscomunication as they wrote 1.25 +/- on it. IF it seals it will be quite close. if the door wiggles into one position it wont seal, in the other position it will (barely). so now what? ill just get no boost i suppose 
08-09-04, 04:15 PM
#21
Super Snuggles
Is that a massive crack underneath the wastegate door? Your housing may have been shot to begin with.
However, they should have used a boring bar to open up the hole to precise tolerances. I suspect they just used a 1 1/4" end mill because it was easiest. Check the fit and see if there's enough overlap to make it usable. In the worst case scenario, you'll have some blow-by that will release some exhaust energy, but whether or not it will noticeably affect boost response or level is debatable.
However, they should have used a boring bar to open up the hole to precise tolerances. I suspect they just used a 1 1/4" end mill because it was easiest. Check the fit and see if there's enough overlap to make it usable. In the worst case scenario, you'll have some blow-by that will release some exhaust energy, but whether or not it will noticeably affect boost response or level is debatable.
08-09-04, 04:29 PM
#22
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yeah thats a (somewhat) massive crack... but its the best housing out of the 3 that i have. arrg... without spending $2500 on a new set of turbos im not sure i can do much better. oh well, at this point i dont care and just want to sell the car.... ive got bigger and better things to worry about!
hmmm you know what, maybe i should just forego all of this turbo rotary crap and follow your lead jim with a *reliable* motor in the FD. the $$ that im spending on parts to keep these FD's going (and fixing the problems they create) could be going toward a lightweight V* block. im begining to get frustrated just maintaining my dads FD (and i can only imagine what problems ill run into with the 20b in mine regarding upkeep).
thanks for listening to me vent.
hmmm you know what, maybe i should just forego all of this turbo rotary crap and follow your lead jim with a *reliable* motor in the FD. the $$ that im spending on parts to keep these FD's going (and fixing the problems they create) could be going toward a lightweight V* block. im begining to get frustrated just maintaining my dads FD (and i can only imagine what problems ill run into with the 20b in mine regarding upkeep).
thanks for listening to me vent.
Last edited by RotorMotor; 08-09-04 at 04:35 PM.
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