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To Port or Not to Port?

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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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To Port or Not to Port?

Hello, I recently purchased a 93 touring which is going to need a rubuild due to it puffing out white smoke. I have been doing alot of reading and searching but have seen mixed answers so I am going to ask again. I am new to the roarty world but they seem to operate similar to a two stroke as far as the size and shape of the intake / exhaust ports affecting the powerband of the motor. With my build I am going to shoot for approx 350whp. I have read that this can be achieved quite easily on a stock ported motor as well as it wll never happen with a stock port motor. Is porting necessary to achieve the 350whp goal? I assume it cannot hurt to port it. I also wanted to know if there are any down sides such as driveability. I would be purchasing porting templates. If you are a DIY porter whos templates have you used and how do you like the results? I was looking at pineapple racing.
Thanks Again,
Paul
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 12:59 PM
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It all depends on the dyno you test on...lol...when i was on stock twins....i made 348whp on a mustang dyno and with the same exact tune pulled 362whp on a dynojet....(it was a little cooler that day...but geez..) but to answer your question...a stock turbo stock port motor CAN make 360whp...yes.....easily?...no....i would say do a turbo upgrade before trying to get the stock hairdryers to put out those numbers...the stockers will have to be in EXCELLENT shape to keep up at those power levels.....and they will be hurting as they do it.....but they can do it.

....the port really gets the top-end lively....but i personally dont mind the stock port...of course my precision 6776RSP might have something to do with that!

-Jack
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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Don't ask me, I port every engine I build.....I no likey stock ports
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 01:50 PM
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so I am assuming a street port is all I would need. I am trying to be conservative in spending a ton of money on this project right from the start. However I would like to take care of non. Bolt on mods while the motor is apart.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by superjet3
so I am assuming a street port is all I would need. I am trying to be conservative in spending a ton of money on this project right from the start. However I would like to take care of non. Bolt on mods while the motor is apart.
a mild street port will be good...
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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If the motor is going to be apart anyway, and your shooting for 350HP or more, it's worth it to go ahead and port the motor. This is especially true if you plan to use the stock turbos. I would recommend the pineapple racing med. streetport templates, and maybe a porting video if you plan to do the porting yourself.

To do it right though, you should also consider upgrading the fuel system, intercooler, and cooling system as well. Then of course you would need a PFC, and why not go single turbo while your at it. After that, you would probably need a clutch upgrade, then you might as well install a lightweight flywheel while your in there. It would also make sense to do a wheel and tire upgrade to put the power to the ground, and do you feel yourself sliding down that slippery slope yet??
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 02:36 PM
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You can make higher power on stock ports with supporting mods by running high boost and having good air flow (intake, exhaust etc). Running high boost on stock twins reduces their usable life and requires good tuning.

You can make similar power at lower boost levels with a ported motor with supporting mods and good tuning.

Case in point - a month ago my car dyno'ed 310 rwhp and 240 rwtq running 10 PSI on stock sequential twins on a street ported motor with supporting flow and fuel mods while still running an SMB high flow metal cat. Getting it to pass smog would be a bitch but it makes good power.

Be careful with the smog situation in NJ when moving to a ported motor.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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Thanks for all the feed back everyone. This will not be my first go around with a turbo vehicle. Previously I had a eclipse gs (Sold to buy house) which I swaped in a 2.5L aluminum rod motor with a FP3052 turbo custom equal length mani. MegaSquirt running fuel and ignition with basicaly custom everything. Pineapple street port it is. While I am rebuilding I will most likely replace the clutch too. I have had good luck with southbendclutch.com How are they for FD applications? What clutch recomendations does everyone have? Like I said I am going to try to take this slow (try). I just want to get the internal mods straight and then when I have the money I will upgrade the fuel, radiator, FMIC ect.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by superjet3
Thanks for all the feed back everyone. This will not be my first go around with a turbo vehicle. Previously I had a eclipse gs (Sold to buy house) which I swaped in a 2.5L aluminum rod motor with a FP3052 turbo custom equal length mani. MegaSquirt running fuel and ignition with basicaly custom everything. Pineapple street port it is. While I am rebuilding I will most likely replace the clutch too. I have had good luck with southbendclutch.com How are they for FD applications? What clutch recomendations does everyone have? Like I said I am going to try to take this slow (try). I just want to get the internal mods straight and then when I have the money I will upgrade the fuel, radiator, FMIC ect.
ACT products are popular. I have the street/strip clutch and prolite flywheel combo, and they work well for me (street driven only).
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 08:58 PM
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How many miles are on the car? If high miles, then think about going single.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 09:44 PM
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The car has approx 130K on the body. The motor and turbos were rebuilt and have 15K on them.
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