2 things...
I just rebuilt my motor and had a "street port" done. I have a Apexi power FC on the car running 15psi. Do I need to have the car retuned to account for the additonal air from the port job? I am assuming this will be a must...
Secondly I rebuilt the motor due too losing a coolant seal, I have greddy rad caps on the motor which have a valve pressure of 1.3kgf/cm2. I have been told that this may have contributed to my coolant seal blowing...any thaughts?

THANKS

 

i hope not because i just switched to a 1.3 bar cap.

 

I ran a 1.3 cap for 10 years without problem, now have a 1.1 only cause can not find a 1.3 to fit alum AST tank

 

I have spent a lot of time playing with my coolant system in the last few weeks. I would think that the combustion side of the inner o-ring would face PSI in excess to 25psi.

I would be more worried about losing your small hoses every few years, or causing a failure at a bad time.

Why did you need to up the pressure of your cooling system, you needed to increase your boiling point? It's something like 4 degrees fahrenheit for each additional pound of pressure.

I would think changing the coolant/distilled water combination would achieve the same results without the extra pressure in the system.

Does anybody know the PSI pressure the o-ring faces from the inside of the housing?

-Rotary4tw

 

I only changed the caps for show purposes..."greddy" name on the bloody cap does anyone have any thaughts on wether or not I HAVE to retune the apexi power fc because of my port job???

 

Yes, it needs to be retuned....you will need more fuel and more conservative timing, depending on the size of the port.

 

Did you just replace just the filler neck cap or both the AST and the filler neck cap with the Greddy?

 

both

 

I would definitely look into a retune. The street port will change the airflow of the engine throughout the power band, and it really needs to be set up for the street port. I'd keep the boost down until you can get it dialed in.

I don't think the radiator cap was a contributor to the water seal failing. My gut feeling on a lot of FD radiator failures is due to the fans not running when they really should be - do a search on hks fan controller , I did a writeup on that not too long ago. Mazda tried to run the coolant temps rather hot for better fuel efficiency, and I think in the long run that contributes to premature coolant seal failure.

At the least, get the FC thermoswitch to drop the fan engagement temp to 95 deg C.

Dale

 

so 1.3 is the cap to have??

 

I actually have modded the fans to come on when ever the car is running