well he actually showed me some that were cracked... Besides I'm sure he does not know what he is talking about since he only owns a succesfull body shop which specializes in custom imports. yeah what does he know lol

By the way if you ever seen seen Chris Rado's widebody TC? yeah he did it.

 

que?

I don't want to crap this guys thread, but search my posts and find out what I do for a living (and have been doing in this shop since 1977) and make up your own mind. There's lots reasons a sideskirt may crack, but not being bondo'd onto a fender isn't one of them. I'm sure he's a talented fella, but maybe the phone game of him telling you and you telling us has distorted the reasons for his statement.

Check out the skirts I put on my FC, they've been through 30,000kms of driving so far, and alot of that was a continent wide road trip through back roads (SHAKEY! ) and there's not a single crack in one of them.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/classicautos-s4-tii-727353/

They're panel bonded but not bondo'd/shaved. Perhaps thats the disconnect here.

Back to the thread:

 

I'm just going by what he said and showed me. It does not really matter to me really, I don't know jack squat about body work so I was just communicating what was shown to me.

sorry back to thread

 

Nice work you have going here. Just a few questions though, why not mask off the fender wells, so no over spray gets in there over the nice black you put down? Also, I am a little surprised at the disposable masks, they work some but not as well as a paint respirator with cartridges. Seeing some of the equipment you guys have, I am surprised no one is wearing one. One last thing, are you not getting any dust in the paint being blown up from the floor or surounding areas from the pressure of the paint gun being released? Well, either way you guys are doing some good work from what we are getting to see from the pics. looks like fun. Hope it all turns out well for you and keep the pics comming!

 

You dont have to strip to bare metal... Just scuff down and use a proper degreaser/surface prep. POR-15 sticks to everything (including your hands!!!!) Lacquer thinner can barely wash it off your hands. If it dries on your hands, it will be on your hands for the next 7 days of scrubbing.

I'm not worried about body work... If I damage a fender or something, we can fix it. We tried our best to keep smooth lines of the car. Make it look as OEM as we can.


We used panel bond and bondo on the fender flares and side skirts.

 

yeah I tore into my dad about that overspray in the fenderwell. He gets in his moods of being in a hurry... that or he had a few whiskeys and got careless probably the later... I'll go under the car when all is said and done with a some more por-15 and a brush. It goes on just fine that way.

We had the garage door wide open or we were outside spraying (dont tell the EPA please). This is not finish work. The car sits in primer till I get the motor and interior put in. Then we will mask the car and spray in a proper booth. We really only took care of the underside stuff (hood, hatch, doors, door jams, etc). The final outside spray will be done in a booth.

Next round of pics will probably be a LS3 drop in (I know alot of people hate hearing that here). I haven't bought it yet, but that's what I am thinking of going with.

 

^^

FWIW, When putting it on with a brush I strongly recommend using a foam brush. Much easier application and also much less possibility of air bubble than a typical brush from my experience. Not to mention it uses alot less of the actual product.

 

i am about to do the same thing, however negative temps and 6 inches of snow tends to slow down progress lol

 

^ thanks for the tip!

 

man i want to do the same thing to my fd

 

Looks damn good!!!

The only thing I can say is watch out with iso's... this might be your only build if you aren't careful with that ****, isocynate poisoning is nothing to joke about.

 

Sorry for the thread necromancy here, but are there any updates on this project? I love watching a build unfold from the ground up.

Sorry if Cryptic started another thread about the rest of the build, I searched for his posts but this looked like the latest.

 

Jeez... almost a year later. I've actually made some headway in the past month.
I posted this in my local forum, so I'll just re-post it here.


I'll post up the various pieces as they arrive. Here's what I have so far.

The long block.
New GM LS3 aluminum block, 4.125 Scat Crank, Mahle 4.065 bore flat top pistons, Oliver 6.067 Rods, Clevite bearings, PRC ported oil pump, Roll Master timing chain, Comp cam, rear,top, and front cover, knock sensors,
Newest PRC LS3/L92 heads decked .020" cnc'd and then hand polished, TSP dual springs, Standard new LS3 valves, hardened push rods, intake and exhaust rockers,LS7 lifters and trays, head gaskets, head bolts and valve covers

Comp Cam specs (if I remember right) = 243/259 .624/.624 114 LSA

PRC LS3 Heads - should be close if not better than:
Lift Intake Exhaust
.200 154 115
.300 223 170
.400 282 198
.500 324 211
.600 351 228
.650 358 232


Front drive accessories / starter / brand new valve covers with coil packs (Vette takes offs for cheap)


F-body Oil Pan, Windage tray, pickup tube, and dipstick.
I have an aftermarket Trap-Door Race Baffle on the way to replace the stock one.


Edit - 2/17/2010
More parts!

2002 Fbody T-56 (40k) / Bell housing / Throwout bearing


Pro 5.0 Shifter


Spec Stage 3 Clutch / Pressure plate / Billet Flywheel (800 miles)


and to my delight , a complete 2002 wiring harness and PCM. I didn't really realize I was getting this for the same money.


Edit 2/18/2010
JTR 1-7/8 long tube headers (ceramic coated)



Samburg CAI/Radiator **note the prevision for the A/C condenser**



Edit - 2/23/10
Polished motor mount pedestals and Biscuits (required for Samburg subframe)

 

Edit - 2/25/10
Samburg Rod and Custom LSX Subframe, transmission mount, and differential mount (1 3/4 .095 DOM tube) (before powder coating)


Close up of some welds


Bump steer correction w/spacers
(this is needed because the steering rack is pushed forward to make room for motor/oilpan)



I took some shots inside the motor.
This shows the LS3 block modification to allow a 4.125" stroke, so the connecting rod clears the block.


This is the best I could do showing how close the connecting rod gets to the block. I can't turn the motor right now to get a better angle.



Edit 2/27/2010

My girlfriend's Dad works for Southwest Metal Finishing in New Berlin. He polished some aluminum pieces for me. You can compare before polishing from a few of the pics above.

 

Subframe is back from the Hy-Tec Powder Coating. The color is called "Anthracite w/clear"






Edit Sunday 2/28/2010
Subframe is in.


As well as the steering rack and bump steer correction.



3-7-2010
No pics yet, but I cleaned up and installed the wiper motor, brake booster, and about half of the chassis wiring harness. I am re-doing all the loom and tape. Man is that tedious work.

 

wow. great project. too bad it's not a rotary going back into this body. keep us updated though.

 

If I can score another roller, I'll bring it back to life with my rotary I have sitting in the back of my garage.

 

Do itttt! Your doing some great work on that car, keep it up

 

1) nice project
2) you are a complete dick for tearing up a CW 95 PEP
3) you are also a jerk for painting it anything other than CW

 

I'm not gonna lie i though this was gonna be the cleanest VIP rotary car until i saw the LS

Very... very nice car none the less.. looks awesome, keep going. I cannot hate on a clean *** car

 

The white 95 was actually a completely stripped roller I dragged back from Florida to WI. The car was practically as stripped as the pics you see in the first post of the thread. Basically a frame on wheels. I'm missing way to much **** to restore it to back to original especially at the price 7 stuff fetches.

 

That makes me feel somewhat better...I'm still sad though

 

WTf....Just bought the panel bonding stuff.. Did you really pay 300 bucks for a stupid gun????

 

NO! Definitely not! I want to say like 35-40 bucks which I still found outrageous for something I would probably use once. I still have it.


I bought 2 tubes (I think) and the gun. I have maybe 3/4's of a tube left. I was being plenty generous with the stuff.

 

lol, think i'm just gonna squeeze it out by hand.. where'd you find the 40 gun?