Poor gas milage issue
#1
Can't live without boost.
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Poor gas milage issue
So my car has a few new things changed:
Motor oil (Valvoline 50SAE) 200 miles ago
Factory spark plugs changed 3,500 miles ago
Factory spark plug wires changed 800 miles ago
Occasional use of MMO
Driving habits, not too hard, usually don't boost 2nd turbo very often. Rarely WOT. During these cold days I usually let the car warm up a good 6-8min and don't drive past 2,500 rpms until after a few miles. Usual cool down time ranges from 4-6min.
Full tank of gas: Just over 200 miles.
Now I think that's pretty bad for my carefulness. I'm thinking it could be because of all the time that I leave the car in idle like warm ups and cool downs..... ??
Any help is good help.
-Dan
Motor oil (Valvoline 50SAE) 200 miles ago
Factory spark plugs changed 3,500 miles ago
Factory spark plug wires changed 800 miles ago
Occasional use of MMO
Driving habits, not too hard, usually don't boost 2nd turbo very often. Rarely WOT. During these cold days I usually let the car warm up a good 6-8min and don't drive past 2,500 rpms until after a few miles. Usual cool down time ranges from 4-6min.
Full tank of gas: Just over 200 miles.
Now I think that's pretty bad for my carefulness. I'm thinking it could be because of all the time that I leave the car in idle like warm ups and cool downs..... ??
Any help is good help.
-Dan
#4
Mr. Links
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That's about average. Check the other "gas mileage" threads:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ht=gas+mileage
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ht=gas+mileage
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ht=gas+mileage
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ht=gas+mileage
#5
Mr. Links
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Re: Poor gas milage issue
Originally posted by EviLPeNeviL
During these cold days I usually let the car warm up a good 6-8min and don't drive past 2,500 rpms until after a few miles. Usual cool down time ranges from 4-6min.
During these cold days I usually let the car warm up a good 6-8min and don't drive past 2,500 rpms until after a few miles. Usual cool down time ranges from 4-6min.
Just start the car up. Allow the rpms to settle and then drive the car without getting on it until it warms up. It's not really a good thing to just let the car sit there to warm up.
For cool down, just stay off boost for the last few minutes before you get home... let it idle for a minute and then turn it off. If you car isn't moving, you aren't cooling it all that much, just promoting heat soak.
#6
Rotary Freak
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I think it's a combination of all of your excessive idling. Do you make a lot of short trips? I get about 150 to 180 miles per tank around town, but around 350 to 400 per tank on the highway.
#7
Bacon
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I've noticed the same thing lately. I think it's the cold weather and all my idle time. My car takes about 10-12 minutes to warm up completely ... then about 3 miles of drive time before it's ready for some boost.
Before I would get between 250-300 around town ... now i'm lucky to get 200. Since it's starting to warm up again ... I'll just deal with it until i can do some decent testing.
Before I would get between 250-300 around town ... now i'm lucky to get 200. Since it's starting to warm up again ... I'll just deal with it until i can do some decent testing.
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#8
Ex fd *****
Re: Poor gas milage issue
Originally posted by EviLPeNeviL
Motor oil (Valvoline 50SAE) 200 miles ago...
-Dan
Motor oil (Valvoline 50SAE) 200 miles ago...
-Dan
straight 50 weight oil is WAY too heavy for a rotary you should be running 10w-30 in even the HOTTEST climates (per MAZDA FSM).
and using heavier oil will reduce your gas milage.
#10
Cheap Bastard
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Re: Re: Poor gas milage issue
Originally posted by Mahjik
BTW, that's a little excessive.
Just start the car up. Allow the rpms to settle and then drive the car without getting on it until it warms up. It's not really a good thing to just let the car sit there to warm up.
For cool down, just stay off boost for the last few minutes before you get home... let it idle for a minute and then turn it off. If you car isn't moving, you aren't cooling it all that much, just promoting heat soak.
BTW, that's a little excessive.
Just start the car up. Allow the rpms to settle and then drive the car without getting on it until it warms up. It's not really a good thing to just let the car sit there to warm up.
For cool down, just stay off boost for the last few minutes before you get home... let it idle for a minute and then turn it off. If you car isn't moving, you aren't cooling it all that much, just promoting heat soak.
I do most of my driving around town, and get around 12 MPG. On the highway I think its about double that. Also, I don't think anyone uses that kind of oil. I use Mobil1 15/50. I recommend it.
Adam
Last edited by adam c; 01-09-03 at 03:14 PM.
#13
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by 93BlackFD
synthetic is a no no
synthetic is a no no
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=23430
#14
Originally posted by Mahjik
...For cool down, just stay off boost for the last few minutes before you get home...let it idle for a minute and then turn it off.
...For cool down, just stay off boost for the last few minutes before you get home...let it idle for a minute and then turn it off.
Last edited by R1Outcast; 01-09-03 at 07:09 PM.
#16
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by R1Outcast
Okay, I'm a little confused . I thought the point of cool down was to let the turbos slow down while still being lubricated? If this is true then if you're not on boost for the last few minutes of driving, then why would you sit and let the car idle before turning it off?...Not sure if it sounds like I'm attacking, but I'm not...I'm asking a serious question. Because if I'm not on boost for the last few minutes of driving, I just turn the car off as soon as I park.
Okay, I'm a little confused . I thought the point of cool down was to let the turbos slow down while still being lubricated? If this is true then if you're not on boost for the last few minutes of driving, then why would you sit and let the car idle before turning it off?...Not sure if it sounds like I'm attacking, but I'm not...I'm asking a serious question. Because if I'm not on boost for the last few minutes of driving, I just turn the car off as soon as I park.
Usually I'm putting away CD's or getting stuff together to take out of the car so it's not a big deal.
#17
Cheap Bastard
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Originally posted by R1Outcast
Okay, I'm a little confused . I thought the point of cool down was to let the turbos slow down while still being lubricated? If this is true then if you're not on boost for the last few minutes of driving, then why would you sit and let the car idle before turning it off?...Not sure if it sounds like I'm attacking, but I'm not...I'm asking a serious question. Because if I'm not on boost for the last few minutes of driving, I just turn the car off as soon as I park.
Okay, I'm a little confused . I thought the point of cool down was to let the turbos slow down while still being lubricated? If this is true then if you're not on boost for the last few minutes of driving, then why would you sit and let the car idle before turning it off?...Not sure if it sounds like I'm attacking, but I'm not...I'm asking a serious question. Because if I'm not on boost for the last few minutes of driving, I just turn the car off as soon as I park.
Pineapple Racing reccommends synthetic oil, as do many other rotary engine specialists.
#18
Can't live without boost.
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To answer some of the questions directed at me:
*I'm on the 2nd motor and about 47k miles on it.
*I only use premium 91 octane from either Chevron or 76
I'll try to cut down on the warm up and cool down time but it's just sort of a habit of making sure my car is carefully warmed up and shut down.
BTW, how much is a new o2 sensor?
As for the oil...... I think I'll stick with dino oil rather than synthetic.
Thanks for the replies guys.
-Dan
*I'm on the 2nd motor and about 47k miles on it.
*I only use premium 91 octane from either Chevron or 76
I'll try to cut down on the warm up and cool down time but it's just sort of a habit of making sure my car is carefully warmed up and shut down.
BTW, how much is a new o2 sensor?
As for the oil...... I think I'll stick with dino oil rather than synthetic.
Thanks for the replies guys.
-Dan
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