Lets see some input from those who went non sequential.

 

Adam,
What about "When I bought the car it was Ghetto *** non sequential" LOL

 

it just wasent wrth it at the time i did it i didnt know what the major difference was and i had to build the loong block from decifering the FSM and tring to make sure everything was in working order. i believe i had every boost problem iv read on the forums one right after the other and after i spent about 150ish on solenoids and misc rechecking vac lines and chambers it was time to go non. although for the time i have these stockers i would have liked the seq for the insta spool but oh well just gets me used to the t66 when i slap it on there.

z

 

Better question:

Experiencing both, which do you prefer?

 

Interesting question, Adam - but I am not sure that I would like to admit that I had gone non-sequential because I couldn't fix my sequential problems.

 

My sequential was working fine. But as I removed emissions, I decided to do everything including porting and polishing from the engine to the downpipe. I will post my new dyno run soon, once I get it scanned. I will say, the car pulls like a freight train and I haven't even gotten the tune 100% sorted out yet. The #s were 315 RWHP and 280 RWTQ.

 

I understand that it would feel like it pulled harder because it all comes on at once my sequential setup feels like this when I go pass 4500 rpms and if I dont go under 3000 rpms it and then get on it.

 

Why don't you add" who went with sequential, then hated it" to the poll?

 

So much for the "too dumb to fix the sequential system" theory, looks like most people had a perfectly functional system when they made the switch, as was my case. Doesn't this get back to human pride in some little eltie "group"? We, the sequentialists!

But in the real world, simplicity always wins, and especially when it comes to this finicky car. There is nothing more beautiful imo then a track ready FD engine bay completely stripped of all superfluous street related crap. You can actually see the rotor housings. When something breaks, you can diagnose it very quickly.

 

you really think most people would admit to it, especially when you say it like you just did?

 

You can have a track prepped FD that still retains the sequental turbos.

In fact, u bet a seq. FD would do better on a road race rather than a non-seq.

Non-seq is kind of a half *** move in my opinion.

Why keep the restrictive exhaust manifold & turbos, if you are not goin' to capitalize on their original intent:

TO BE RAN SEQUENTALLY!

Just go with a single like everyone else (doesn't always solve everyone's problems)

or

True twin turbos, like Howard Coleman did (that **** was baller)

 

You can't shake a stick without hitting a post that goes like this :

OP : I got a boost problem.

answer x 100 : Go non sequential

 

The seq. System isn't that bad if you don't half *** it when you trouble shoot it.

Full tear down

Replace the crappy OEM check valves with the Dale Clark viton check valves.

Check all solenoids for proper functionality TWICE

Replace old rubber lines with new ones with the material of your choice. (silicone, viton or new OEM pre molded rubber)

Get a FSM or read a couple of threads about hose jobs.

If you are going non seq. because you are too lazy to figure it out, then maybe you should buy an integra.

Make the switch because you want to, not because you can't figure something out.

 

Yup - check valves, hoses and solenoids. These are the three main failure points in the stock system.

Spend $15 for three check valves, $100 or so for hoses, and $50 for some used solenoids (people sell these for dollars per pound, and new ones often don't perform to spec, so used is fine), tested per dgeesaman's write-up, and then get ready to delve into the rat's nest. FPD, injector cleaning, and the fuel line recall kit should be done while in there (and should arguably be done in any case).

This is no more than a solid weekend of work (two, if you are shipping out injectors) and tests/replaces most of the components that give this car a bad reputation.

I don't doubt that there are some failure modes that the above will not address, but if someone who is not willing to go to at least this much effort, deserves a subscription to Consumer Reports.

 

And how long will that last before you're back under the hood trying to diagnose the next vacuum line that popped off or solenoid that failed?

Here's a better solution: chuck the whole thing right in the garbage can with the smog pump, plastic AST, pre-cat, tiny intercooler, plastic radiator, IC pipes, and worthless ECU.

Mazduh may have had their head up their ***, but I sure don't have to live with their errors on an ongoing basis....

 

Theres nothing wrong with the sequential system at stock boost levels. Stock boost levels being the key words. Expecting the stock system to work at non stock levels isn't a problem of design it's a problem of expectation. In 2010 it's hardly fair to judge a system that was designed in the late 80's.

I use hose techniques and have never had a hose pop off, I don't use zip ties or anything else to keep them on there. You have to exert a lot of force to pull the silicon hose off the nipples.

Like mentioned earlier if you want a non sequential system your best solution is a good single turbo.

 

Got tired of fixing the same problems over and over. I don't regret going from over9000 vacuum lines down to 5. The car is happy, and the conversion was done right. Its keeping me happy until I go single.

 

same here.

when i did my non-seq i went all-out: disassembled the turbos 100%, removed both flappers. ported the exhaust housing, ported the turbo hot side inlets, shaved everything off the Y pipe and inserted a splitter, relocated vac lines & the bov, removed the extra butterflies from UIM, disabled the aws, removed everything that wasn't used, etc.

if you do non-seq right, it greatly improves the flow of air in and out of the motor. those who go "poor man's non-seq" are wasting their time IMO.

 

Ditto here as well! The key really is doing it right vs on the cheap. NS without doing all/most ( I didn't relocate the BOV...) of the above is just a waste. I gained some more HP from all the flow gains by doing this and I enjoy driving the car more than when it was seq. It is alot easier to predict the cars reactions both on the street and the track, and it actually makes you be better at staying in the right gears.

 

I couldn't agree more with the simplicity theory which is why you're hopefully running a well setup single turbo system. If you are still running twins then sure it's a simpler more reliable setup but you lost your one advantage over a single turbo. Don't want to go single then absolutely simplify but keep it sequential there's absolutely no comparison to a healthy sequential setup and a well done non sequential setup and yes I've driven these cars both sequential and non. I doubt there's one autocrosser driving this car competitively non sequential and if it was a superior setup they all would.

 

I have gone 5-6 years w/o any issue whatsoever with my sequential system. It is complex and time consuming to sort out but I much prefer it over non-seq for the type of driving that I do.

Note that the reason I went w/o any problems for so long is b/c the solenoids, lines, wiring harness were all new and I didn't touch anything under the UIM during those years.

 

How much $$ to replace all the solenoids?

 

About $30. You can buy these by the bucketload in the classifieds. As was mentioned, new ones (which I think are $70 each) often don't test to spec so buying a bunch of used one and testing them is the way to go.

 

I bet it's pricey but for anyone who wants to do it I have all of them but the turbo wastegate solenoids and I'll let them go for 225 shipped Add 50 for a very good condition set of used wastegate control solenoids.

I wish I had some amsoil to sell, I hear it's the best oil you can buy

No rice, you know I love you I just couldn't resist

 

My understanding is the new ones need a little back and forth before they start to work well