Chunky04

Ok guys, Im like many others on this forum. My 7 has some horrible idleing problems...It does so many random things daily that I dont want to wear you guys out with details...But my main problem would be..my rpm's jumping from 1k to 1.5k consitantly...and a little bogging occasionally...

So anyways...I attempted to adjust my TPS today..(Bought the digital meter and all) but My readings that I am getting are just so off

So now I have to TPS bolts loose...And I am letting the car run and adjusting it until it sounds like its running right...But here are my options...I can turn it clockwise and it will make the RPM"S jump...or i can turn it counter clockwise and the idle settles down but I get some really weird noises out of my G-reddy intake?!?!? It almost sounds like my intake is farting...And I cant find a happy medium?!?! What do you guys think I should do? With these symptoms does it sound like its my TPS or maybe something else? Thanks guys!!!

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

You shouldn't play with your TPS--lol....anyway did you check for vacuum leaks...I had a jumpy idle and I was a damn vacuum leak. So I did a vacuumm hose job and voila--no more crappy idle! Also what are you following to adjust your TPS--ie FSM or someone's writeup?

Chunky04

Im following both...I got an FSM and I have damons right up...But I just dont understand why my readings are so wack... one minute 3F closed is -0.006 next minute its +1.112.... so i dunno

What else should I be checking while Im trying to fix the cure?

jpandes

Chunky,

I wish I could help you on this. My TPS is out of whack also. the range is see is 0-3ish volts on my datalogit. instead of 5v for WOT. I just haven't had the motivation to dick around with it, as my car seems to be driving fine.

What are your mods? What changed to cause the idling issue occur. In my experience, a bad idle can be a whole host of stuff:

• Have you adjusted the littel screw under the Throttel body? I forget the name. My memory is like swiss cheese
• Are your throttle & cruise control cables "bound" up?
• Your ECU may need to "relearn" your car's idle - I had to do this with my Power FC a couple times. I forget the procedure. You may not even have a PFC.
• Is the vacuum hose to your MAP sensor still connected to the manifold?" It's the small square box connected to the firewall behind the UIM.
• Blown motor? Well, let's hope not. But that will definitely cause your car not tidle well.

I'm just throwing darts here. Give us more detail. That will help in diagnosing the problem.

John

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

Did you close your air bleed valve before checking the readings?

ALNY93R1

iTrader: (12)

I had the same problem and it ended up being my LIM gasket.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

Uhh...Your car is supposed to be off when your configuring your tps...You caught that step, right?

Dont know if that will skew the readings at all, but all I know is that the car is supposed to be warmed up, but off...

As far as the farting goes...Do you still have the airpump? If so, I guarentee thats what your hearing, especially with the aftermarket intakes. Just search for "airpump moo".

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

Yes car should not be running but the key should be in the "ON" position. Are you sure you're grouning your meter properly, I used to get different readings depending on where I grounded the multimeter. also if you are not "probing" the wires just right you'll get weird voltages or unstable ones. It's nice and easy if you can borrow a commander from someone and just go to the "sensor/switch monitor".

Chunky04

I do understand that the car is supposed to be turned off, but the key is supposed to be on the "on" position... But since my readings are so wack...I tried to adjust the TPS while the car is running... I feel as though my ground is pretty good...Its grounded to one of the bolts on my driver side strut...

I think im gonna just try and put the TPS at the happy medium point...(knowing that this wont fix the idle) And Im gonna start hunting for some vaccum leaks... I will let you guys know what I come up with...

Thanks for all the input!!! <<<(I threw that in there just cuz i like the **** out of it)

danny hahn

I recently successfully adjusted my idle. I have no aws but the rest of my idle related parts are stock.

Like many, I used info from damians thread, who removed many idle control parts
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fixed-my-idle-problems-backfiring-bucking-more-170731/

and supercell, who was basically stock but may have had a Power FC
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/idle-gremlins-52710/

and the shop manual

hopefully you've checked the items easily accessible like any broken vacuum hoses, check valves working, hoses going into the mainifold as jpandes says a whole lot of things can go wrong

but, if you have it your fast idle cam has to be positioned properly when it's cold and then warmed up, check pout the manual. and your tps has to be within the range specified.

You can remove the elbow and keep it off when you start it to do these preliminary idle adjustments

as damian suggest you may want to set the butterfly valves to nearly closed (you don't want the butterflies flush to the throttle body as they will beat it up) and turn the (AAS) air adjustment screw all the way in, this will bring you to a base starting point. in small amounts they both allow air to leak through the throttle body and maintain a low idle.

Before you warm up the car check and adjust the position of your fast idle cam cold (screw above the oil filter). also note the action that the double throttle diaphram rod moves in when you start the car.

Check for leaks, as someone suggested, I carefully sprayed gumout around the manifold seals.

watch the fast idle cam pin separate off the cam when warm. If it doesn't adjust screw between isc and tps (you may have to pull the UIM).

turn off the motor and key to ON to do the TPS

on your tps are you pushing your safety pin far enough in through the back of the connector? the UIM when connected is an excellent ground. hopefully the tps and the wire are good. set the TPS to spec.

restart the car try to adjust the primary butterfly to 750 rpm, turn the AAS out to fine tune (no more than 1/4 turn).

If this doesn't get there you may have to check under the UIM for problems.