seann

I've just got the flywheel off my '93, (rear main seal was leaking badly, and it was actually loose enough to spin), I've been told to change the o-ring at the same time...is there anything I need to know before I pull that gear out? Can anything scarey "move" inside? If there are precautions, I'd love to hear them...
Thanks,
Seann

FDjunkie

This is scary but not hard to do; once you get the tranny out anyway.

To minimize the risks, turn the e-shaft until its position at TDC as indicated by the small groove on the outer edge of the timing ring behind the front pulley and its matching stationary mark. Also, consider leaving one of the stationary gear's bolts partially inserted to help insure you pull the gear straight out, and you can use a similar approach when installing.

When I re-assembled mine the gear would easily line up one tooth off in either direction, but needed a tap with a rubber mallet to start in correctly positioned. This is why I'm suggesting the bolt. Once started, though I could push it home by hand. Be sure to lubericate the o-ring and rear seal before instering the gear. I used a little high quality grease on the seal and engine oil for the o-ring.

lilroach

mine scared the **** out of me because it came out easy. But when it came to putting it back in something must have moved ever so slightly. It was a struggle but after tapping it the gear slid right in. VERY SCARY

lilroach

http://photos.yahoo.com/mrothrauff

some photos that might help

seann

OK, now I'm scared...before asking, I started to pull the gear out (probably 1/2 - 3/4", then thought, better check with some folks who have been here before...pushed it back in (it went right back in)and went to the computer. Thanks for the info, I've got one question. What is the significance of having the engine at tdc (what is the status of the rear rotor that might help lack of movement from a friction point of view at that position), and why did you make me look at photo #18 with that internal rotor gear hanging way off center like that??? Now THAT looks scarey! Has that engine been turned since the gear was removed? Why should the rear rotor move?
Thanks,
Seann

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Rear stationary gear o-ring failures are rare. If you are sure it is leaking, replace it. If not just replace the rear main seal and be done with it.

LUPE

you don't need it at tdc........ just pull it out and slip/tap it back in.

topic closed.

I've never seen a stationary gear o-ring failure.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Loosen the accessory belts too because the tension will make the e-shaft tilt once the stationary gear is out and make it ahrd to slide back in.

Nat6c

iTrader: (1)

Ok here the deal. i'm changing clutch and fly, with stock fly and act clutch, (flywheel broke....) i figured. while i'm here i'll change the rear main and rear stat gear o-ring. pulled it out. changed ring really toasted up, and changed rear main. NOW... here's the problem. like above it was kinda stiff to pop back in... tapped good with a mallot and wood block so i wouldn't **** it. and it pop in, then i easily pushed it in by hand... cool. but i DID turn the motor a bit before i used the mallot thinking i has to help the aligning b/c is was so stubborn. after i put the seal and flywheel. i tried to turn the motorby hand to make sure it's still turns... but if say i start at. 12 oclock.... and turn it (looking at flywheel,) counterclockwise, (clockwise when in front of car) it'll go all the way around until i hit about 1 oclock. then it's F*cking STIFF i can't turn it even witha breaker bar.... is this normal b/c of compressions. or could i have f*cked something up bad..... i'm seriously worried and i dun wanna join the rebuild club thanks for ANY help....


Carlos

GARCO MOTORWORKS

You may be off by a tooth. Pull your spark plugs out so no compression .Pull the gear then turn the motor one tooth and retry .Which way you ask .Only you can tell .When I have done this I never let the engine turn .Do not use a breaker bar .Push the flywheel and key in place and turn that by hand .Repeat in the other direction 2 teeth if it gets tight .

Nat6c

iTrader: (1)

my question to that though is... how can i be off by a tooth... if the rear stat gear only fall in 1 way....? there's a alignment dowl on the right side.... only way the stat gear will go... dosn't the rotor spin around the stat gear? thanks for the reply!!


Carlos

maxcooper

Yeah, remove the spark plugs to rule out compression as the cause of the stiffness.

What kind of front main pulley do you have? My rear main seal went bad after I botched the install of a front pulley that required removed of the pulley hub (as opposed to the kind of pulley that just bolts to the stock hub).

-Max

Nat6c

iTrader: (1)

factory motor, pulleys etc.

los

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Seriously, I wouldn't mess with the stationary gear O-ring with the motor in the car. There's too many variables that could go wrong that could require a full teardown of the motor. The rear main seal is a piece of cake, though.

Dale

Nat6c

iTrader: (1)

well after 1.5 days of trying to fix my god dang mistake i've said screw it and joining the rebuild club. pulled motor out tonight. got about a 2-3 month timeline before she's running again. sigh* thanks for the help guys. funny thin is i actually work at mazda and the original tsb on the website says nothing about turn crank rebuild. BUT may have been in the hard paper copy in the yearly tsb's gotta look for it. so here's the plans.

Complete OEM rebuild kit, gasket set and rotor kit.
stock fly with act clutch kit
apex rx6 single turbo bout 8psi (only want 280 rwhp MAX
power fc with adequate injectors and pump
adding second stock oil cooler from R1.
V-mount IC to lay behind rad/fans. custom fan switch (done)
interior repairs, (mostly done)
Ground zero LIM (reliability)
Upgraded radiator
new water pump.
SS OMP lines.
motor mounts
possible wire harness if fund allow and needed..
rebuild a/c system
wideband w/ dual oil temp gauges.
hks ignition/igniter (<-- if they make a igniter)

and still thinking

i like mahjik want a "quick" car not a full drag / top speed car. hend the 280 rwhp max ideal. going single for simplicity. heat reduction, and less stress on motor. and a much better quality turbo... (i hop that is) wish me luck!


i'll keep ya'll posted on the buildup!!!


Los