Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I was on the way home and having my fun merging onto freeway traffic when I heard a loud “crunch.” Initially I thought it was one of two semis shifting gears while I was passing but the immediate loss of power couldn’t be coincidental. Please tell me that this isn’t what an apex or side seal blowing out sounds like I had the boost at about 12-13 psi but turned down my boost controller to 8-9 psi afterwards. I managed to limp the car home but had to keep the car idling at 1500 rpm on the city streets to prevent it from stalling out. As of 9pm PST, the car still exhibits:

Symptoms:

1. Erratic and lumpy idle with black puffs of smoke spewing from the exhaust; I’m assuming this is unburned fuel because…..
2. A strong fuel-smell (duh) – The car is running really rich.
3. Lack of power, feels like someone shut off one of my rotors (valet/safety mode – as in my old FC)
4. Feels like the ignition is not firing correctly.

This is the second time this has happened to me. I “fixed” the first occurrence 6-8 months ago by shutting the car down and allowing her to cool off. I started her back up 3-4 hours afterwards and the car didn’t miss a beat. Unfortunately I never got around to taking the car to my mechanic to have her checked out. I’m hoping that some of you in the forum may have some input and suggestions for me while I try to figure this out tomorrow morning. I’m going to try resetting the computer and have read up on how to do such, however a friendly reminder would be extremely helpful

Thanks in advance.

93 R1
35,000 original miles

My mods are:

HKS intake
HKS downpipe
Random Technologies High-Flow Cat
HKS Cat Back
HKS F-CON
HKS EVC-EZ
Mazdaspeed Short-Shift
?
?
?

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

Before assuming the worst, although it could be. Try checking your igniton system like coils, plugs, wires, grounds, etc....you may have just fouled a plug or a wire could have came loose. Stranger things have happened. Good luck.

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the input. I've checked the wires but will try the plugs over the weekend. As for the coils, what should I be looking for?

Jim Swantko

Doesn't sound good...

With all those mods shouldn't you have an ECU upgrade?

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I do have a F-CON to compensate for the increased feul requirements at higher boost levels however since it doesn't adjust timing, I will admit it is a bit limiting. I was reading the AEM threads to search out the specs on it before all of this took place but hopefully it's a $2 spark plug or wire, not a new motor; although I am interested in a street port

Jim Swantko

I didn't see the F-con listed in your mods.

I hope it's something little. Change the plugs... they killed my car once (temporarily).

racer rx

check MAP sensor hose...

best wishes jc

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Will do. Thanks.

So far, my to do list is:

plugs
plug wires
ignition coils
MAP Sensor hose

Can anyone write what a blown seal sounds like or the immediate experience afterwards?

duboisr

Just do a compression check, you are going to change the plugs any way, that will rule out a broken seal or not. Then go from there. Hope it is not a seal.

RX7Elmo

do you have a boost gauge?? what is your vacuum sitting at?

Danny

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Just started her up for the first time - vacuum reading are between 9-12 mmhg and it's idling very erraticly. I haven't allowed the car to warm up to normal operating temperatures yet. For reference, my normal readings are 18-20mmhg at idle.

13brv3

Sorry, but my money's on an apex seal

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Well, I ran the diagnostics and its codes 71 and 73, the secondary front and rear injectors.

I guess this explains why the car won't start anymore. The engine turns but doesn't "catch." Could it be flooded? I didn't let the car warm up thoroughly before shutting her down to get the initial vacuum readings. Anyways, I need to start digging through the Service Manual to figure out how to proceed. Any suggestions?

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Just found this on page F-235 in the Shop Manual:

• If a secondary injector or circuit has an open or short, Service Code 71 (Front) or 73 (Rear) is output, causing poor acceleration and lack of engine power.
• If a primary injector or circuit has an open, engine will stall and will not start.

Pheww, I’m sorta relieved but don’t want to tempt any more of Murphys' Laws.

Now where did I put my multimeter?

13brv3

I'll be happy to be wrong

I'm curious, do you have a check engine light, or did you just find the codes in memory on the ECU? Are you sure they're current codes? I very much hope it's something simple.

Good luck,

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Good point!

I don't know if the codes *are* current.

I did have trouble pulling the codes though.
I didn't get any codes at first so I disconnected the battery for a minute and stepped on the brake. I then disconnected the F-CON and reconnected the battery. Since the time on the radio was still set to the correct time, I assumed that the reset didn't take hold however the codes did appear this time. To double check, I hooked the F-CON back up and the same codes still came up - I must have jumpered the Diagnostics wrong the first time.

In any case, I need to start removing "stuff" off the car.

Thanks for your thought.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Check the boost sensor on the firewall, drivers side. Sometimes the hose falls off or leaks...I highly doubt you have an engine problem with 35,000..

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Thanks and will-do however would this prevent the car from starting up?

At this point I'm going to try priming the fuel system to see if I can get her started.

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Check the Boost Sensor on the firewall, the sensor hose is unplugged however since the F-CON has its own boost sensor, this *should* be normal - I have to look up the HKS manual on this.

I primed the fuel system however the car managed to only cough/burp a few times and not catch.

The front strut brace and the throttle elbow are off. Next is the manifold extension.

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Hey all,

I was about to take the UIM off when I noticed that one of the cables to my throttle body is missing/snapped! I think this explains some if the irregularities however I was wondering if you guys know the origin of the cable. I can't find it in the shop manual so I'm including a photo.

Crap, looks like I'm having trouble posting pics...

Here's a link to another thread then...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=121693

RX7Elmo

id' double check your injectors. from what i've read, i think you had injector problems before, and that caused you to possibly run into a lean condition, in which case the motor kinda let go. Then you pulled the codes which were in memory and then found the error codes from the injectors. It could be something else i'm really really hoping. But pulling those low idle numbers are bad, even on start up. My car actually gets higher vacuum on start up and then settles to a normal one.

danny

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Final Update:

Well the car runs fine now. Changed the plugs, reset the ECU and *ahem* plugged in the hose to the boost sensor...

"Check the boost sensor on the firewall, drivers side. Sometimes the hose falls off or leaks...I highly doubt you have an engine problem with 35,000.."

Thanks Mr. RX7 TT

T88Rx7

was ur problem the same as this cuz i think im having the same thing https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=122226

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

The problems was similiar - I listed the symptoms and conditions in which they occured in my first post.

You check your boost sensor? (Big friggin DOH on my part...)

T88Rx7

i went to the car today and i revved that bitch and pow back to normal i think i had to beat the plugs alil cuz i dont even drive the car