PLEASE HELP 3rd Gen Cooling Issue New Memeber
Progress Made
Thanks everyone who has posted for the ideas the assistance. This is an awesome forum. Well an update i have made progress so i said i would update. First i started off dropping the 50/50 mix to about a 65-75/35-25 Sorry i dont have the specific ratio i lost my coolant reader device. Next i added some coolant additive (probably didnt do anything but supposidly could help drop temps).
But the problem i have been dealing with is coolant flow or lack there of. Yes i have bleed the system but what i forgot about was the heater hoses, i hadent turned on the heater at all so there were more air pockets. SO basically my whole problem this time has been air pockets. So i have followed the factory manual on how to bleed the system and thought i was making progress but i continued to dump coolant hence the bleeding wasnt going very well and i found my coolant flow was stopping (Due to air pockets).
Now this really gets to me since i have owned this car since 98 and never once had an issue bleeding the system. Next item up for business is that damn 13PSI radiator cap. So i did some research originally the early 93 RX& came with a 16PSI radiator cap. Now this is from info i found on the net i cant validate this 100% But the just is that Mazda did a coolant recall because the pressure was deteriorating the coolant hose and damaging the lines that suppied the turbo. SO they replaced the lines and dropped down to a 13PSI cap.
Now i read another guys thread who was losing coolant and couldnt figure out where he though the coolant seals were bad but before dropping down and doing a rebuild he bought a Stant replacement cap which was the original PSI rating of 16. Now he didnt lose any more coolant after that issue. SO i figured what the hell and went to a stant 16PSI rating cap. SO thank you to the guy who posted to check the radiator cap. Along with that i know you guys are not going to like this but i figured now there is more pressure there is going to be a greater chance of that air coolant seperator exploding (I had one explode on me back in 99 when i let a guy who wanted to buy the car decided to race a camero down the freeway) Now i just came back from Japan i spent almost 5 years over there thats why i have alot of JDM items. There is an exclusive RX7 company called Revolution in Japan they made a aluminum radiator filler neck/air coolant seperator SO i bought it and brought it back to the USA with me it wasnt at all cheap about 280 USD. Now i hadnt put in on the car because i was having all these coolant issues but i figured with what i was doing and the lack of the twins i should try it. SO i added that with the stant 16PSI cap and now temperatures are not spiking only gradually rising. Now ive been able to drive it and it has top a temp of 232 but usually holds around 220. SO it appears that i have flow and its backed up by the temp gun on the radiator. I will attempt to bleed the system one more time in the morning and hopefully the last for a while. But now the fans do not appear to be cooling the coolant enough before cycling it back through. Im right now in 100-105 degree weather and the coolant at the top of the radiator is at about 220 and the opposite end about 130 but now i take a temp reading at the outlet on the bottom and the see what temp is going back into the motor which is about 186. So i have ordered a use set of factory fans which got shipped today so hopefully by next week i have a better update. I am hoping that 3speed fan set up will finally get this thing operating at a normal level. I was thinking of placing those slimline fans on the outside of the condesor and reversing polarity to have them act as a pusher then use my fog light swith to activate incase the car starts running hot what do you guys think?
But the problem i have been dealing with is coolant flow or lack there of. Yes i have bleed the system but what i forgot about was the heater hoses, i hadent turned on the heater at all so there were more air pockets. SO basically my whole problem this time has been air pockets. So i have followed the factory manual on how to bleed the system and thought i was making progress but i continued to dump coolant hence the bleeding wasnt going very well and i found my coolant flow was stopping (Due to air pockets).
Now this really gets to me since i have owned this car since 98 and never once had an issue bleeding the system. Next item up for business is that damn 13PSI radiator cap. So i did some research originally the early 93 RX& came with a 16PSI radiator cap. Now this is from info i found on the net i cant validate this 100% But the just is that Mazda did a coolant recall because the pressure was deteriorating the coolant hose and damaging the lines that suppied the turbo. SO they replaced the lines and dropped down to a 13PSI cap.
Now i read another guys thread who was losing coolant and couldnt figure out where he though the coolant seals were bad but before dropping down and doing a rebuild he bought a Stant replacement cap which was the original PSI rating of 16. Now he didnt lose any more coolant after that issue. SO i figured what the hell and went to a stant 16PSI rating cap. SO thank you to the guy who posted to check the radiator cap. Along with that i know you guys are not going to like this but i figured now there is more pressure there is going to be a greater chance of that air coolant seperator exploding (I had one explode on me back in 99 when i let a guy who wanted to buy the car decided to race a camero down the freeway) Now i just came back from Japan i spent almost 5 years over there thats why i have alot of JDM items. There is an exclusive RX7 company called Revolution in Japan they made a aluminum radiator filler neck/air coolant seperator SO i bought it and brought it back to the USA with me it wasnt at all cheap about 280 USD. Now i hadnt put in on the car because i was having all these coolant issues but i figured with what i was doing and the lack of the twins i should try it. SO i added that with the stant 16PSI cap and now temperatures are not spiking only gradually rising. Now ive been able to drive it and it has top a temp of 232 but usually holds around 220. SO it appears that i have flow and its backed up by the temp gun on the radiator. I will attempt to bleed the system one more time in the morning and hopefully the last for a while. But now the fans do not appear to be cooling the coolant enough before cycling it back through. Im right now in 100-105 degree weather and the coolant at the top of the radiator is at about 220 and the opposite end about 130 but now i take a temp reading at the outlet on the bottom and the see what temp is going back into the motor which is about 186. So i have ordered a use set of factory fans which got shipped today so hopefully by next week i have a better update. I am hoping that 3speed fan set up will finally get this thing operating at a normal level. I was thinking of placing those slimline fans on the outside of the condesor and reversing polarity to have them act as a pusher then use my fog light swith to activate incase the car starts running hot what do you guys think?
1. Get a Lisle coolant funnel. I love mine and recommend it to everyone who thinks they might have air pockets in their cooling system. The additional pressure from the large volume of coolant sitting about 6" above the engine helps force air out of the system. They're nice and cheap, and can sometimes be found at local auto parts stores.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/radiator-cap-funnel-eliminate-air-bubbles-342309/
2. To improve air flow through the radiator, try sealing the fans to the radiator (use aluminum duct tape to seal the gaps between the fan shrouds and the sides of the radiator).
3. I'd love to see photos of that Revolution filler neck / air separator. The OEM filler neck is higher than the AST, which doesn't make a lot of sense to me...
-s-
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/radiator-cap-funnel-eliminate-air-bubbles-342309/
2. To improve air flow through the radiator, try sealing the fans to the radiator (use aluminum duct tape to seal the gaps between the fan shrouds and the sides of the radiator).
3. I'd love to see photos of that Revolution filler neck / air separator. The OEM filler neck is higher than the AST, which doesn't make a lot of sense to me...
-s-
i dont know about the condensor and fans because you would block the
condensor more but thats my opinion... also if you type a whole essay again
please press enter and space things out like i did... i sometimes was reading the
same lines lol
condensor more but thats my opinion... also if you type a whole essay again
please press enter and space things out like i did... i sometimes was reading the
same lines lol
Thanks again guys for the response. I actually did purchase that funnel deal but i was unable to get there caps to fit the filler neck but ill try again today to put that on. Here is a picture of the motor and that air coolant seperator from Revolution in Japan Its all aluminum. Please excuse the dirty engine, and the two toned color
Ya i should have had my engine bay painted with the car but if i can get it running perfect again i will just repaint to a high gloss red.
Also those copper fittings are the bleeder valve thats on the coolant hose from the throttle body to the over by where the sensors are. I only used this initially to remove the air from the engine side. On my radiator i also have a bleeder valve that came on it so i used it to fill the radiator, so this got me a jump start on bleeding my system. I also included a few other pics i havent got a chance to get a full pic of the car yet.
Also those copper fittings are the bleeder valve thats on the coolant hose from the throttle body to the over by where the sensors are. I only used this initially to remove the air from the engine side. On my radiator i also have a bleeder valve that came on it so i used it to fill the radiator, so this got me a jump start on bleeding my system. I also included a few other pics i havent got a chance to get a full pic of the car yet.
Last edited by a_sik_7; Sep 21, 2007 at 04:35 PM.
Initially when i bought the car i knew nothing about it i just purchased the car. Come to find out it had sequential turbo problems so they never functioned the appropriate way. There werent too many RX7 shops out here and Mazda didnt have anyone qualified to work on the car so i was told it would have to be sent out of state. I kept the car for about a year and decided to sell it, i let my boss drive it home to show his wife. First mistake he ran it hard down the freeway racing a camero and blew the AST which in turn dumped all the coolant. Well rather then being smart about it and turning off the car he pulled over seen what hapened and chose to drive it 10 minutes to his home with no coolant. So now im stuck with a seized motor, well the next day the guy got fired (for some unknown reason) and unknown to me i got the promotion. Needless to say there was a grudge now, i tired taking to small claims and he just filed bankruptcy and i was included as a debtor. So i decided to get an engine installed which was purchased from 1st stop import performance. I took it to a guy who claims he had done these installs in my area, come to find out he had only did one install prior to mine. So the motor gets installed but he cant figure out the vaccumn diagram, so once again the turbos do not function properly. Now i notice the rotor housing are starting to leak oil so it was a faulty motor it was sent back and another installed in the same STage 2 Street Ported motor. Still this guy cant figure out the sequential setup keep in mind i rebuit the turbos and everything. So this is in a period of two years my car sat in a shop when i went into the military and got stationed in florida. So the guy said he had it complete and i shipped it out to me, but when i got it same thing the turbos were not functioning. I had a freind out there who had his car built by Pettit Racing. They stopped by the base after a race to check up on his car and at the same time assist me with mine. The owners wife troubleshot my car down to replacing the harness and redoing the vacuumn lines. I purchased the items from Pettit and they were sent out when they got home. So now i decided that Pettit was too far away to get the car there safely and found a mazda dealership with an olderman who was by far an expert on this car. He had it about a day and had this car running flawless and up to factory specs. So at this point is the first time i have seen the potential in my car. So i use the car for about a year and drove it home across country im at about 12000 miles on the car and it shuts down on me entering a freeway two days before i deploy for iraqi freedom. Needless to say mazda told me i cracked an inner seal and so i contacted the place that built the motor and got blown off. SO the car sat up until last year when i sent it out to get a JDM motor installed which was a mistake it sat in another shop for 1 year and came back with a cooling problem. So this is where im at today with this so im sure anyone can understand my frustration.
Thanks you bring up an excellent point. Excuse the poor grammer i was in a hurry to make it to the golf course so i just wanted to get info out quick.
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3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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