His problem right now is not getting the old bearing out it's getting the new one in. Of course in hind sight, using the proper Mazda puller would have helped.

At this point, make sure that the old bearing is completely removed. A thought is to make sure you actually have the proper part that is the correct size. Mazda also has a tool that centers the bearing and sets it to the proper depth. This tool should make the job easy. The oil seal does sit in front of the bearing. The Mazda tool also sets it in place. Refer to the manual for the proper depths if not using the Mazda tool.

I replaced my pilot bearing a few months ago and, using the Mazda puller and bearing set, it went easy.

 

I'm going to get a smaller sandpaper bit today and try to smooth out the rest of the junk in that hole and re-install the new bearing. I just opened up the service manual so hopefully I can find the correct specs that it needs to go in. Thanks for all the suggestions and replies, I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

Wouldn't matter what the fly wheel looked like. The pilot bearing is in the end of the E-shaft/crankshaft (just like any other pilot bearing) Never know one to be in the flywheel.

 

It may help to use the pilot bearing installation tool rather than just hammering in the new one.

 

Got a pic? Is it something I can rent from Autozone, or does mazda have a specific tool for it?

 

OK seriously **** this car.... I'm about ready to wash my hands of this mess.


I'm seriously going to lose it in a minute... I cleaned out the inside, it feels smooth to the touch. Went to tap in the new bearing and when I got it almost all the way in, the new bearing won't spin anymore with my finger. So I pulled it out via the bearing puller and now it will spin. WTF can be putting enough pressure on this thing that when i put it in, it will no longer spin? The hole is smooth......

I'm so annoyed it's not even funny...I've waited 4 months to drive this thing, I have a freshly rebuilt motor that started on the first crank and sounds great, but I can't drive the ******* car because of a stupid *** little bearing. If the hole is fucked, the motor has to come out again to replace the crankshaft = me selling the car and washing my hands of it. This is beyond pissing me off..... I don't know what else to do besides take it to a tranny shop at this point and hope they can come up with something. It doesn't help doing it on my back with the car on jack stands either, there is no room to work under there.

 

You can run without a pilot bearing....worst case scenario your trans input shaft bearing wears out in 50k miles and you plop in a jspec. That is what the pilot bearing does...stabilizes the trans input shaft during shifting to take a bit of stress off the bearing. Many cars do not use a pilot bearing or bushing at all.

I've done this on 2nd gens before when I didnt have access to a bearing and needed the car back together. No problems to report, the car will drive the same. True, it's not the accepted 'right" way of doing things, but in your situation I wouldnt think twice about it.

Lots of engines that I take apart have a chewed up pilot bearing with no needles left, just an outer race...and the clutch and trans worked normally and lived a full life, with the owner not knowing the pilot bearing was gone.

 

We're grinding on it more right now..... if we can't get the new one in, I'm going to say screw it and put it in with no pilot bearing. This transmission has 74k miles on it anyway, if it lasts another 30k miles and breaks I'll be happy, and just buy a jspec. I was thinking about getting one anyway lol.

I have noticed most vehicles don't have a pilot bearing, it seems almost stupid putting one in with how much they fail. I'm going to try to make this work with it, but if not, I'm ditching the bearing and if I have to get a new transmission down the road, so be it. This car won't see more than 5k miles a year anyway.

 

There has GOT to be a piece of the old bearing sleeve left in there, got to be. It's probably ground down now by drilling, grinding and sanding that you THINK it all looks to be E-shaft. But take a strong light and look for a seam or crack - that will be where a small screwdriver or chisel needs to get a bite under and pry upward,

good luck

 

Got the new bearing in, it isn't a snug fit, but at this point I don't care. We got it to the point where it won't come out by hand and needs a bearing puller to come out, so it's snug enough. It still spins and the seal is in, in front of it. With the clutch alignment tool inserted it spins no problem, so I'm going to pack it full of grease and give it a go. If it siezes again, I'm saying screw the bearing and running without one.

 

awesome... was there a little bearing left in there that finally popped out?

 

Yes, it all looks like eshaft, but there was definitely some bearing left. Go it out, tapped the new one in a ways, it's holding steady. I'm about to put the tranny in the car, I'll let you guys know later on tonight how it goes if not first thing tomorrow.

 

Now...go baby GO