Piggyback on the water temp warning light for Meth AI level?
#1
Piggyback on the water temp warning light for Meth AI level?
So, i have some plans on getting an AI water/meth system in place "at some point".
But since i have the cluster our for service, i thought this was a good time to solder in a piggyback on the water (and oil) warning lights.
My idea is that i can use the stock warning light to indicate low water levels for the Meth tank, and maybe in the future, the oil warning light for a possible OMP bypass oil level.
But, would i need one-way diodes here to make sure that the two signals (AI system and OEM/Haltech ecu) dont mess with each others causing issues?
Have anyone ever done something similar? (i tried searching, but no luck)
But since i have the cluster our for service, i thought this was a good time to solder in a piggyback on the water (and oil) warning lights.
My idea is that i can use the stock warning light to indicate low water levels for the Meth tank, and maybe in the future, the oil warning light for a possible OMP bypass oil level.
But, would i need one-way diodes here to make sure that the two signals (AI system and OEM/Haltech ecu) dont mess with each others causing issues?
Have anyone ever done something similar? (i tried searching, but no luck)
#2
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Not sure I completely understand if you intend to keep both functions on the coolant light and buzzer. If the buzzer and light go off, how would you know if it’s the engine coolant or your water/methanol tank that’s low? One would be kind of an emergency ‘ pull over and stop’ while the other wouldn’t be any big deal.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 04-01-22 at 07:10 AM.
#3
Not sure I completely understand if you intend to keep both functions on the coolant light and buzzer. If the buzzer and light go off, how would you know if it’s the engine coolant or your water/methanol tank that’s low? One would be kind of an emergency ‘ pull over and stop’ while the other wouldn’t be any big deal.
If i splice in to the tach plug itself, my hope is that it would only be a light, and not a sound. Thats why im thinking maybe a diode is good since it would make sure the signal never leave the cluster.
From my understanding, any sound comes from the foot well ECU/Fuse box?
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I'm in agreement, I'd prefer to leave those lights to their original functions. I like the dual purpose nature of it, but either of those lights would be a pull over IMMEDIATELY for me where if my water tank ran out it's "ok, stay off boost until you can fill that up".
I have a green LED in the base of my dual center speaker pod that I have wired into the AI system. Turns on when it's injecting, blinks error codes if there is one, slow blinks if the tank is out.
All that said, you would need a diode to wire that system up.
Dale
I have a green LED in the base of my dual center speaker pod that I have wired into the AI system. Turns on when it's injecting, blinks error codes if there is one, slow blinks if the tank is out.
All that said, you would need a diode to wire that system up.
Dale
#6
Boilermakers!
iTrader: (157)
I like the idea of piggybacking existing light for the low meth level, but I'm not sure I would like to see the add coolant light come on when I'm out for a spirit drive haha.
There's also the nature of messing with the cluster too, it's not easy to get to if you need to change / fix something. But if you do decide to use that light as dual purpose light, what you can do is wire in a switchback LED board. You can design your own board, or find something very small, like this, then take the circuit board to retrofit to your application. This will give you 2 color indication, and the circuit will be separate already so you don't have to worry about that.
I have a similar plan for my WI system, but I'm going to incorporate the euro headlight washer switch for the warning light. I'm going to see if I can fit a switchback LED board for the switch backlight, so I can have amber for normal light and white for low level warning.
There's also the nature of messing with the cluster too, it's not easy to get to if you need to change / fix something. But if you do decide to use that light as dual purpose light, what you can do is wire in a switchback LED board. You can design your own board, or find something very small, like this, then take the circuit board to retrofit to your application. This will give you 2 color indication, and the circuit will be separate already so you don't have to worry about that.
I have a similar plan for my WI system, but I'm going to incorporate the euro headlight washer switch for the warning light. I'm going to see if I can fit a switchback LED board for the switch backlight, so I can have amber for normal light and white for low level warning.
#7
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
The low coolant sensor is basically a liquid-detecting switch mounted pretty high in the thermostat housing, it will connect to ground when the level is good. The sensor will be open (no connection) when the level is low. You can check this by unplugging the sensor connector from the harness.
You could piggyback by intercepting the wire in the engine bay using a relay that will be closed (connected) when the water-meth tank level is good and open (not connected) when the water-meth tank level is low. Then either the sensor or the relay could trigger the low coolant LED/alarm.
You could piggyback by intercepting the wire in the engine bay using a relay that will be closed (connected) when the water-meth tank level is good and open (not connected) when the water-meth tank level is low. Then either the sensor or the relay could trigger the low coolant LED/alarm.
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#8
Form follows function
iTrader: (8)
To the op: Yes, you can share the lamp using steering diodes as necessary. In fact I’ve done similar; works fine—it’s stealth and handy. You can use just about any small rectifier diodes such as 1N4001s to isolate each circuit.
I want to add that I did the diode matrix in the cluster, right at the lamp. In this way, you get second lamp function without the buzzer. You’ll have to run a separate small lead to the cluster for the WI function. You can also make the lamp blink if you want to add yet another function.
hope this helps.
I want to add that I did the diode matrix in the cluster, right at the lamp. In this way, you get second lamp function without the buzzer. You’ll have to run a separate small lead to the cluster for the WI function. You can also make the lamp blink if you want to add yet another function.
hope this helps.
Last edited by Speed of light; 04-01-22 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Clarification
#9
Thanks for all the replies!
@scotty305 that is pretty clever, and even better than messing with wires and diodes on my harness! It also does not require long wires hanging about in the engine bay.
@ZE Power MX6 I want to keep my euro headlight washers working so that rules out the washer switch. But the idea is awesome and i have a few spare button holes that i could get either some JDM or USDM switches and modify them. Maybe something similar to the exhaust temp warning.
I also have a project in the works to attempt to make a "smart mirror" using a small OLED and CAN adapter to display information in the rear view mirror, so perhaps that could be an option. But for that im dependent on other people so i cant put all my eggs there. I want the interior to be 100% clean OEM and that create issues in terms of showing aftermarket information.
@scotty305 that is pretty clever, and even better than messing with wires and diodes on my harness! It also does not require long wires hanging about in the engine bay.
@ZE Power MX6 I want to keep my euro headlight washers working so that rules out the washer switch. But the idea is awesome and i have a few spare button holes that i could get either some JDM or USDM switches and modify them. Maybe something similar to the exhaust temp warning.
I also have a project in the works to attempt to make a "smart mirror" using a small OLED and CAN adapter to display information in the rear view mirror, so perhaps that could be an option. But for that im dependent on other people so i cant put all my eggs there. I want the interior to be 100% clean OEM and that create issues in terms of showing aftermarket information.
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