holy crap the klingon death grips are installed

just kidding, here are some pictures of the brake duct cooler i made finnaly mounted on bigislands7's fd
and yes that is carbonfiber

as for fitment, david has told me that there was a very small fitment issue but i think i can work this out very easily by drilling the holds a bit bigger. on another note, these ducts were lighter then a stock fd's brake sheilds

enjoy

Note: this was the first proto type and to tell you the truth, i did not even know if they would be close to fitting. lucky they do fit fairly well and all others will be made with full double layer CF as fitment does not seem to be that much of a problem.

 

wow those came out way better than i thought they would.

 

Nice friggin rotors! Clean those bastards!!!,, Oh wait that's me Ahhhh!!! That's what happens after a year and a half of sitting in Hawaii air. Thanks again Skunks!!

 

nothing a little resurfacing wont fix. btw those look awesome.

 

One good press of the pedal huh. Nah, I'm going to get a new set fromthe Rx7store before the car rolls again.( Maybe after taxes?)

 

so is the price still the same at $150

 

hmmm, well im not seeing how these cool the brakes. im assuming there is ducting that that meets up with the stock lip that feeds that tube or someting right?? also (excuse me for being a skeptic ) but im not so sure that it would do that much cooling seeing as the air hitting the rear face of the rotor wont "pick up" much heat... i could see if there were a jet of air that shoots through the blades in the middle of the rotor, but even then, it would be hard to get the air past those blades since theyd be spinning so fast. to me it seems the only option is to get larger rotors, and thicker rotors to dissapate more heat. also, something else i was thinking was, when its raining wont the intake pick up water and shoot it through the piping to hte back of your rotor constantly spraying it, and the pads w/ water causing you to not be able to stop? just some things i was pondering........

 

Thats where the air comes out at least 75% of it is going to the cooling vains where the stock ducts bring air to. And a hose will eventually hook up to the front bumper and ram air into the ducts.There is hardly any air hitting the rotor face directly. About 25% will go to the hub area to help cool the wheel bearings. ( This is eventually going to be a "Targa" Race car, and open track car.As far as water ...I think I would have to drive thru a pretty big rainstorm to get waterall the way thru the hose. It really won't be that much more water to the brakes than the stock ducts.. Crawl under your car and look at the inside of the backing plate. The bottom is bent inward somemore to pick up air and feed the cooling vains. And this is still the experimental stage. It may not work worth a **** And i may end up ripping it off. But the theory is there so I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

 

oh wait.... i just remembered that there are inlets to all the veins on hte back of the rotor arent there? only thing concerning me now is the rain.... besides that id happily take a set! just curious: anyone know if these would work/fit fine w/ the 99 spec brake rotors/calipers? -heath

 

nice work

 

Good work skunks.

On your second prototype I would increase the size and shape of the air inlet to the backing plate.

 

carbon fiber

 

Clayne......We thought about going with a three inch hole but that would allow too much air to hit the rotor face directly. Thus increasing the chance of warpage or cracking. But in a race type situation, one may not be to worried with the cost of rotors and want the benefit of cooler less fade breaks instead. There is always a give and take with things you do. We'll see. I am going to mount these on another FD here and get some before and after temps with the stock ducting and the new style we/he created. I will use my laser temp gun that i use for measuring header temps and such. We'll see. Maybe this weekend if I can get the other car here.

 

can this be used on the 99 brakes/rotors?

 

wow, thats nice. Good job with the fabrication it looks awesome. I wish I had a set

 

I would imagine so. I don't think the 99 bolt pattern for the backing plates is different.( not sure though) If you mean the 99 bumper...i think any bumper will work but require some fabbing for the ducting hose. How big is the 99 rotor? i will have to measure mine again. I can't remember off the top of my head.

 

unfortunatly i dont remember... but the 99 rotor is wider as well.

 

I actually trimmed some of the material to fit the rotor better. Probably about an inch or so of material got cut off. You could just have extra material on the top and bottom and trim to fit. Shouldn't be a problem. I don't think anyways.

 

well i think id be interested in a set if it came with the piping from wherever the brake duct intake is... arent there only brake intakes on the R1 & 99 wpec lip?

 

BIS,

Motec sells an IR temp sensor.

You mount it to the chassis and log voltages.

 

Maybe I missed something, but what is the reason why you need all that extra cooling for the brakes? Do you track your car regularly?
Personally I would be more concerned with fixing the wheel well that looks like a wild dog chewed through it. The wheel well actually plays an important role in the aerodynamics of the car.

 

While your running? This would be far more effecient for measureing temps while braking.. Trex.... It's not tracked regularly because we have NO regular track. However that is going to be the primary purpose for the car when it is finished. As for the comment about the wild dogg!!!...It was actually a wild bore!! Those liners will be replaced as well as the brake rotors, pads, all suspension bushings,etc...The purpose for more cooloing to the brake rotors is to prevent brake fade while out running on the track Day or in a race. Also this is just something to do and try whilke the car is down.

 

Double post

 

Triple post.Damit, i only hit enter once!!

 

It would require you to use a logger of some sort.

If you have datalogit you can use the sensor input in place of another sensor and log that.

Then translate the voltage per the specs.

http://www.motec.com/catalog.htm