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Pics from my rebuild

Old Jan 16, 2004 | 02:27 PM
  #26  
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
I just push the center plastic pieces out. Problem with the stock mazda design is that the bottom of the corner seal has the least amount of metal which would cause it to break there first.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 02:38 PM
  #27  
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I agree, that is a major design flaw with the OEM corner seals...

I will have to reverse my 2piece apex seals so that the corner piece faces the intermediate housings on both rotors

Not sure how I'm going to pull that off yet
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 02:43 PM
  #28  
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Originally posted by 93BlackFD
I agree, that is a major design flaw with the OEM corner seals...

I will have to reverse my 2piece apex seals so that the corner piece faces the intermediate housings on both rotors

Not sure how I'm going to pull that off yet
With the front rotor, it won't be that hard. With the rear rotor, you could use super glue to hold it in place.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 02:47 PM
  #29  
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that's what brian cain recommended to me, i attempted to do that but i SWEAR it's impossible to glue them together evenly

do you lay them on glass or something?
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 08:52 PM
  #30  
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finished up my transmission today

bellhousing is chrome exterior, wrinkle black interior, other pieces are super gloss black, the casing for the tranny is at the moment, painted will fix later on down the road in the interest of getting the car together

http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/tranny/DSCN1256.JPG

http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/tranny/DSCN1259.jpg
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 11:17 PM
  #31  
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Originally posted by 93BlackFD
that's what brian cain recommended to me, i attempted to do that but i SWEAR it's impossible to glue them together evenly

do you lay them on glass or something?
What if you try a rubber band around the rotor and apex seals until you put it in place. Then once seated, remove the rubber band(s) and insert the large spring then the smaller spring (I think thats the order). You could also use some

Last edited by atihun; Jan 19, 2004 at 11:21 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 11:25 PM
  #32  
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You're rebuilding the tranny too?

Good god man.
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 11:27 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by atihun
What if you try a rubber band around the rotor and apex seals until you put it in place. Then once seated, remove the rubber band(s) and insert the large spring then the smaller spring (I think thats the order). You could also use some

my springs are too strong, that method has been attempted
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 12:46 AM
  #34  
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Is that the same e_shaft that came out of the mazmart engine? If so can you fill me in a little bit about the micropolishing procedure you did. It looks awsome. Did you do it to the rotors as well? And one last one, Did you have the irons lapped? (hard to tell from the pic of your bridge! Thanks and good job so far!
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 01:00 AM
  #35  
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Originally posted by jdhuegel1
This may be a dumb question so someone please slap me (or at least point me in the right direction)....

How does a bridgeport work differently form just a huge streetport?
It creates a bigger intake port than possible with a streetport.
You can only make a streetport so big before you either port into the water jacket, or you port too far so the apex seals fall out of the side of the rotor and into the port as the rotor comes around.
With the bridgeport, the bridge is left so there is something to support the apex seal and keep it inplace as the rotor comse around, yet allow the intake port to be that much larger.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 01:21 AM
  #36  
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the bridge supports the corner seal, not the apex seal

there is also a considerable amount of exhaust/intake overlap with a bridge...

BigIslandSevens:

micropolishing is done with a high speed polishing compound while the eccentric shaft is on a lathe, this insures a consistant surface is achieved

it was $25 to have it done by rick engman and he will be lapping my irons when i get them back
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 02:26 AM
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Did you not lap the side housings for smoothness?
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 02:27 AM
  #38  
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Yeah I know.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 02:33 AM
  #39  
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Originally posted by Sponge Bob Square Pants
Yeah I know.
??

Lapping before porting = bad practice, if porting goes wrong, you're out even more money

I will have them lapped when i get them back
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 02:44 AM
  #40  
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Who are you going to use to lap the housings?
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 02:46 AM
  #41  
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as stated in three posts above, rick engman will be lapping the irons...if you do not know who he is, consider yourself a newbie
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 02:50 AM
  #42  
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Oooops my my mistake. I'm not a newbie, I just made the mistake of not reading the entire thread. My bad!
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 07:02 AM
  #43  
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I may be thinking about this the wrong way, but isn't that bridge port and exhaust porting going to create a huge turbo lag for your stockers...or is there something you're not telling us?
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 09:32 AM
  #44  
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why would more air in and more air out with the same piping to the turbos increase lag? as long as the manifold has the same size primaries it should increase gas velocity out of the engine.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 10:14 AM
  #45  
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we'll see!! there's insufficient data to speculate on this, that's why i'm trying i
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 10:33 AM
  #46  
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I was just thinking...the bigger the exhaust port the slower the gases are pushed out. Imagine blowing thru a straw and having an "exhaust" port bigger than the intake opening...the gases leaving are diffenitely slower. I know this is a lame example, but I guess if you can achieve the same input ratio as stock ports the spool up will be the same, however I don't see that happening since the exhaust flow (turbo) is what will be forcing the more intake flow. But wtf do I know??? That's how it seems to work in my head.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 10:37 AM
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Even if the exhaust port is bigger than the intake (which in a bridge port is most likely NOT the case) if the manifold piping is still the original size it would increase the velocity of the gas passing through it. Ei: hook a leaf blower up to a hose that is smaller than the original outlet... notice that the air will gain velocity when it hits the smaller piping.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 10:38 AM
  #48  
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i'll PM you an explain
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 10:43 AM
  #49  
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I don't have the stage 3 port, I have the stage 2. It was also done by Steve Kan and Gotham Racing. My stock twins are still sequential and my stage 2 port does have some overlap. While it isn't as extreme as 93blackfd's, it still exists. My turbos spool REALLY fast.

Just an FYI for those that asked, as I heard the same thing they did about turbo lag.
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 10:44 AM
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Originally posted by ReodDai
Even if the exhaust port is bigger than the intake (which in a bridge port is most likely NOT the case) if the manifold piping is still the original size it would increase the velocity of the gas passing through it. Ei: hook a leaf blower up to a hose that is smaller than the original outlet... notice that the air will gain velocity when it hits the smaller piping.
That's why I said the the example was lame...I wasn't trying to say the exhaust ports were bigger than the intake ports, I was just thinking about the ratio of the gases leaving the motor...stock vs huge port. Your example with the leave blower is irrelevant, hence the exhaust flow on a leaf blower has nothing to do with the intake.
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