As continued from this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=260332

and ultimately these threads:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=260953

I've decied to build my own motor, and I just got some of my internals back from rick engman

i'll link all pictures as they're HUGE

budget
http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/DSCN1212.JPG

just picked up the engine from mazmart
http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/DSCN1238.JPG

all tools aquired
http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/DSCN1233.JPG

eccentric shaft was worn
http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/DSCN1210.JPG

after micropolishing
http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/DSCN1242.JPG

all bolts/front cover components polished
http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/DSCN1240.JPG

prepping the rotors and clearancing side seals
http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/DSCN1249.JPG

rotors assembled and side seals clearanced, new bearings installed, 2mm solid corner seals, rotary aviation 2mm apex seals (not shown)
http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/DSCN1250.JPG

right now gotham racing's steve kan is porting the plates, when i receive his permission and some final pictures, i will be posting those as well....

stay tuned for some pics of the powdercoated engine

 

Thats some serious internal blingage. Very nice!

I've never built an engine so excuse my ignorance, but why coat the rotor in petroleum jelly?

 

well it serves two purposes, it keeps the seals in tact while you assemble the motor, it provides further lubrication on the initial start of the motor, and as you turn the motor over by hand

as soon as it hits oil/heat, it liquifies and burns off/joins the oiling system

i will use petroleum jelly and assembly lube (assembly lube is thick and stringy/sticky, and dissolves in oil as well)

 

wow man much props have u rebuilt b 4? are u learning from manual???

 

Interesting. I wonder how many engines Dr. Wankel went through figuring out how to get everything to stay together as he assembled them. I'm just picturing this German guy working on an engine with all of his fingers on a different seal as he lowers the rotor onto the e-shaft. lol...

 

http://www.mazda.com/history/rotary/

check out that site man, wankel never really got to play with the "high tech" rotaries we have...

and this is my first rebuild

 

just got the pics in from gotham racing

 

What's he charge for just the bridge to be done?

 

(817) 788-8726

call them up and ask

 

That's too much work.

 

i think it's about $750 for that type of port, exhaust and intake

 

Good lord......... you guys have too much scrilla. I'll just still with my baby jesus port.

 

do the math on a catback and intake

how much horsepower do you get from that?

now do the math on my port job....

 

I'm going to go change my pants now. Damn I can't wait to get my car running!

 

I can't remember that far back.......

 

a lot

 

Nice port job!

 

What type of corner seals are you using? More importantly, what brand? They look like the new Hurley design.

 

i got them from atkins, solid 2mm corner seals

 

What new design? I didn't know you could change the design much on a corner seal. Either is a triangle or it's not.

Right?

 

This may be a dumb question so someone please slap me (or at least point me in the right direction)....


How does a bridgeport work differently form just a huge streetport?

 

See that thin port? It allows more air into the combustion chamber.

 

since when are corner seals TRIANGLES? Go to Hurley's site and you'll see what I mean about "design"

 

Yeah, I had to take a closer look. My stupid 15" monitor sucks bad. Does Steve Kan recommend solid 2mm corner seals?

Here's the hurley corner seal:

 

i recommended solid corner seals to myself steve kan agreed

it's good practice to use them with bridges, the plugs found on OEM seals are likely to cause a problem

the downside is, they do not cushion hard blows to the apex seal and they put more wear on the side plates