Resort to personal attacks. Jeesh, you have a lot to learn about life and Rx7s.

Good Luck with it.

 

I'm sorry but it appeared as though your post WAS a personal attack.

 

If nobody can tell the difference why bother spending money on shocks and springs at all? Leave the stockers on. You can't tell the difference anyway

I know plenty of FDs that are raced on all types of tracks. Why don't you give some people like Tripoint, Guy Ankeny or even Mazdatrix a call and speak with them about spring rates?

I can guarantee you none of your highly respected Japanese teams are running equal rates front and rear in anything but possibly drifting. If they are then they are simply complete idiots. I'm always so suprised when people explain how Japan has some sort of holier-than-the-rest-of-the-world experience when it comes to RX-7's and the Japanese can do no wrong. Of course this person's knowledge of a Japanese race team is a few pictures on the internet and some webpages they can't read. All you see is brand. You may as well learn about it from reading the boxtops on cereal boxes.

There are just as many dumb people in Japan as there are in the rest of the world and at the same time you don't have to be Japanese to have an understanding of what it takes to setup the suspension on a car in order to make it go faster around a track. Anytime anyone supports an argument with "In Japan they do this..." or "In Japan they do that..." or "It's used by Japanese raceteams..." then all you've succeeded in doing is becoming part of JDM marketing. You were probably also convinced by the television that Miller Lite is your favorite beer, you can lose 30 pounds in 30 days and that if you wear Axe cologne girls will attack you in elevators.

 

of which i concur..
note the as well at the end of my comment.. meanin in addition to
simply made another suggestion for what he already has to work with..

 

You can bring the car back towards neutral by stiffening the front, but that doesn't mean grip is added. Stiffening the front bar handicaps the front to make it match the handicapped rear in this case.

"Neutral" does not mean "most grip". There are thousands of combinations you could use to make the car neutral, but only a few of those will be neutral AND increase available grip. It's like driving on slick pavement rather than concrete. The car could still be neutral in both cases but the total grip available is vastly different.

As for adaptability it's the driver's job once he gets behind the wheel to extract the most performance out of the car in the current conditions. Not over driving an ill handling car does not mean he will be fast though.

 

agreed..
as with any other car on the track thats still goin through their tuning phase..
great deal amount of combinations and corrections required to weed through...
all part of the learning curve..

 

People, please realize that "neutral" on the street and neutral on the track are two separate concepts. On the track, it's at the edge of oversteer as in the stock R1 set up and can be induced into oversteer and controlled. On the street, it's not very forgiving and you can get into alot of trouble.

So when a person like Michael Schumacher said his car is set up "neutral" (ever watch his car twitches around a curve?) it's terminal oversteers for most of us.

FWIW, I initially went with Koni yellow 550 F and 450 R. That was not comfortable on the potholes of DC. So I went to 450F and 325R. It's better but I'm contemplating going back to 350F and 280R with normal ride height.

 

Everyone keeps talking about spring rates. Can't I just simply buy springs with different rates if it becomes a problem? I don't think you're limited to those spring rates. Besides won't adjusting the dampning adjust for oversteer?

 

dont take it personal jake, they're just trying to help you with info.

fwiw, i have the tein ha and i already think they're too much for anything but smooth pavement. going around a turn and you hit a little bump the car is not happy.

 

Yes, you can replace the springs. You can even set the adjustment to 1 (lowest setting). But then, you are not taking advantage of the dampers and it becomes a waste of money. I don't think these guys with track experience are jelous or haters, they're just trying to help and give your their experience. It's like grampa buying a $150k Porshe. Shure he can drive it to the market and the dealer will take his money without question, but what a waste.

If you can exchange them for the II's with special order spring rates and dampers valved to match, set of purple sway bars, mazdacomp sway bar bracket, a strut bar then you'd have money left over for light wieght wheels which you need to take advantage of the dampers and that's not even metioning two peice light weight rotors.

Their trying to help. With the price of maintenace on these cars, we all need the help. I bought coil overs and rims right before my engine went.

 

It completely depends on the coilover design. Yes, you may be able to swap out the springs for Eibach ERS series, but the dampers will be designed for the 800 rate springs.

It's clear from your posts that you know little about suspension setups and have wasted $3k on a set of RACING coilovers that aren't streetable in the least.

I'm not trying to insult you. I'm just trying to point out some things you should have known before dropping $3k. Also trying to inform the myriad of other ignorant forum members who started drooling over the coilovers just because they look pretty sitting in a box.

And yes, I could most certainly tell if someone swapped out my 290 rate rear springs for 400 rate rear springs (what my fronts are). I can't imagine the car being balanced more towards oversteer than it already is.