Pics of my Engine Removal
09-12-02, 12:44 PM
#1
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Pics of my Engine Removal
Thanks to Swarol, se7en steve, and Chris for the help.
These are pics that se7en steve took.
Mechanic's nightmare: the rat's nest.
These are pics that se7en steve took.
Mechanic's nightmare: the rat's nest.
09-12-02, 01:08 PM
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Originally posted by Street King
All that for a plug change? =), good luck! Wish I knew some people in my area that knew their ****!
All that for a plug change? =), good luck! Wish I knew some people in my area that knew their ****!
Yeah, I wish I know my **** too.
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09-12-02, 01:41 PM
#9
Nice pics.
Here are a few tips. Keep the airpump (if you have it on) and alternator on the car. I also usually leave the PS pump on the motor too.
I always pull the trans, it is pretty easy to get out and it makes putting the engine back in MUCH easier. No hassle with lining up the input shaft during reinstallation, wiring is easier to R+R with the trans out too (starter, trans sensors).
Good job!
Jeff
Here are a few tips. Keep the airpump (if you have it on) and alternator on the car. I also usually leave the PS pump on the motor too.
I always pull the trans, it is pretty easy to get out and it makes putting the engine back in MUCH easier. No hassle with lining up the input shaft during reinstallation, wiring is easier to R+R with the trans out too (starter, trans sensors).
Good job!
Jeff
09-12-02, 02:08 PM
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Originally posted by Import Convert
Those are some awesome photos man! Why does that guy have his face blocked out?
Those are some awesome photos man! Why does that guy have his face blocked out?
Originally posted by turbojeff
Nice pics.
Here are a few tips. Keep the airpump (if you have it on) and alternator on the car. I also usually leave the PS pump on the motor too.
I always pull the trans, it is pretty easy to get out and it makes putting the engine back in MUCH easier. No hassle with lining up the input shaft during reinstallation, wiring is easier to R+R with the trans out too (starter, trans sensors).
Good job!
Jeff
Nice pics.
Here are a few tips. Keep the airpump (if you have it on) and alternator on the car. I also usually leave the PS pump on the motor too.
I always pull the trans, it is pretty easy to get out and it makes putting the engine back in MUCH easier. No hassle with lining up the input shaft during reinstallation, wiring is easier to R+R with the trans out too (starter, trans sensors).
Good job!
Jeff
09-14-02, 12:47 AM
#12
40k worth of fail
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Yep ... the four of you took a motor out.
Actually here are more tips ...
I take the PS pump off as you did so that I don't have to deal with opening the PS fluid system, instead of what Jeff said. You also don't have to take the TB off as you did.
Another thing that I can't really understand why you did it, but you don't need to disconnect the oil lines at the cooler. Instead, take the idle pulley bracket off (the piece that the PS pump and AC compressor bolt to) and take the 19mm banjo bolts out of the lines running to the block. I also take the downpipe off, but it can really be done either way. It's harder to get back in there with it on.
Finally, it's just a good idea to keep the oil filter on there so nothing inadvertently falls into the oil passages. Then again, if the motor is no good then it won't really matter ... I'm used to taking a good one out.
Actually here are more tips ...
I take the PS pump off as you did so that I don't have to deal with opening the PS fluid system, instead of what Jeff said. You also don't have to take the TB off as you did.
Another thing that I can't really understand why you did it, but you don't need to disconnect the oil lines at the cooler. Instead, take the idle pulley bracket off (the piece that the PS pump and AC compressor bolt to) and take the 19mm banjo bolts out of the lines running to the block. I also take the downpipe off, but it can really be done either way. It's harder to get back in there with it on.
Finally, it's just a good idea to keep the oil filter on there so nothing inadvertently falls into the oil passages. Then again, if the motor is no good then it won't really matter ... I'm used to taking a good one out.
09-15-02, 09:03 AM
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Originally posted by striker
woah did that chick help out!!!! or was she just watching. mechanically inclined chicks rule.
woah did that chick help out!!!! or was she just watching. mechanically inclined chicks rule.
Originally posted by Chronos
how much was the new motor? anything special about it, like porting?
how much was the new motor? anything special about it, like porting?
09-16-02, 01:10 AM
#20
Originally posted by DK
Yep ... the four of you took a motor out.
Actually here are more tips ...
I take the PS pump off as you did so that I don't have to deal with opening the PS fluid system, instead of what Jeff said. You also don't have to take the TB off as you did.
Another thing that I can't really understand why you did it, but you don't need to disconnect the oil lines at the cooler. Instead, take the idle pulley bracket off (the piece that the PS pump and AC compressor bolt to) and take the 19mm banjo bolts out of the lines running to the block. I also take the downpipe off, but it can really be done either way. It's harder to get back in there with it on.
Finally, it's just a good idea to keep the oil filter on there so nothing inadvertently falls into the oil passages. Then again, if the motor is no good then it won't really matter ... I'm used to taking a good one out.
Yep ... the four of you took a motor out.
Actually here are more tips ...
I take the PS pump off as you did so that I don't have to deal with opening the PS fluid system, instead of what Jeff said. You also don't have to take the TB off as you did.
Another thing that I can't really understand why you did it, but you don't need to disconnect the oil lines at the cooler. Instead, take the idle pulley bracket off (the piece that the PS pump and AC compressor bolt to) and take the 19mm banjo bolts out of the lines running to the block. I also take the downpipe off, but it can really be done either way. It's harder to get back in there with it on.
Finally, it's just a good idea to keep the oil filter on there so nothing inadvertently falls into the oil passages. Then again, if the motor is no good then it won't really matter ... I'm used to taking a good one out.
I usually take the PS pump out with the motor because it is really simple to unhook the PS lines at the pump and I don't have to deal with it hanging in the way when I pull the motor and trans and reinstall it. Some people have a hard time taking the PS pump off without breaking the pulley.
He removed the oil cooler lines the right way, taking the bracket (AC and PS) off the block is a PIA. The oil cooler lines are made to disconnect easily with the clip.
Leave the DP or Pre-cat on the motor (like you did), it is much, much easier to hang on the turbos before the motor goes in the car. Installing it after is a PIA again. Also if you leave it on you can also R+R motor with the airpump and belt on.
I agree about the oil filter and TB, leave them on. I always pull the motor with the trans attached, disconnect slave cyl line right near the MAP sensor, slave cyl and line stays on the motor tranny.
Later,
Jeff
09-28-02, 02:38 PM
#24
Oji San
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Nice polished LIM the manatecu. It's good to see other RX-7's parked around the ones that are having there engines replaced. You really need to cover those opening that lead to the turbos and the engine, i.e. y-pipe coupler, LIM, primary tubo inlet. I don't want to see a post where someone drops a nut into the engine or turbos. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of turbine blades and apex seals!
09-28-02, 03:09 PM
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wow this is my first time seeing the rx7 eingine out of the car.......... that is pretty big..... nice pics by the way lol the 8th pic looks like a scene out of fast and the furious!! j/k
Last edited by rotobiatch; 09-28-02 at 03:14 PM.