Chronos

Thanks very much for everyone on their appraisal of the ceramic seal. :rolleyessomemore: I've done extensive research and given plenty of thought to what I'm doing. The point you people fail to grasp is that I'll be putting much much more money into my car than any of you would ever think of, so while $1500 seems like a lot to you, it's signifacantly less to me considering everything else. I will say however that detonation resistance was somewhat on the backburner of my mind when I was considering the advantages of ceramic seals...I actually wanted 2mm, but Pineapple could only supply 3mm so I went with that. The Fact that I do have 3mm ceramic seals however, I can resist an extremely good deal more detonation than I could without. That means time to lift your foot off the throttle, which in turn means saving yourself the cost and headache of another engine rebuild. Not to mention that when the time does eventually roll around for an engine rebuild (replace housings) I can actually re-use my seals again and again indefinately.

I have an Aluminum AST I was going to install but I've decided that I'm going to be using Evans coolant, so I won't be needing it now. I'll just take out the AST instead.

In regards to the Gooey stuff, I really don't know what it is exactly but it seems that Mr. Stock's explination is probably right. I'm gonna call Pineapple on Monday and ask them if my shop doesn't know, which they probably do.

911GT2

It should be called "active lubricant." It moves to where you need it most because it's composed of a bunch of tiny little swimming "lubricant particles."

Sorry, couldn't resist, again.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

for the money he spent (5600dollar engine) he could have had more new housings, instead he's got used housings.

mike

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Come on guys, the only reason he got all of that stuff is so he could put it in his sig.

oh and chronos, you are wrong in saying that you are putting more money into your car then any of us would think of. Their are a great deal of forum members that have probally spent more on thier car already then you would think of.

7racer

If the housings are in spec what's the purpose of geting new housings? Just to say they are new??

Just a honest question...

Chronos

Finally got this thread unlocked from the disruptive nature of an immature forum user's posts.

(Thanks to rxrotary2_7 for the assistance)

Scrub, your first comment is nearly as immature as the foremensioned so I won't bother wasting any time with it. Your second comment may be true but it still fails to undermine my point which is that most of the people here disagreeing with me about the costs I've taken on my project have quite smaller budgets and plans than I. Do you seriously think that $1500 is too much money to spend on the heart of a car which I plan to spend 20 times more?!

And just for fun, I'd like to see some of these cars that have $30,000 invested in them, which is around the sum of what I expect to spend on my car.

No harsh feelings towards you, just try and compose yourself a bit better next time you choose to post on my threads.

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Dude, learn to take a joke. It's all fun and games with me so if you took it seriously then thats your fault.

Anyway, their are plenty of cars with 30,000 invested in them. Look in the single turbo forum....Their you will find anything from mild to wild. I have about half of what you plan on investing in your car already invested in mine. That is just the engine alone. A lot of people on the forum have way more invested in thier car then you realize. Every little thing adds up. I've heard of someone who invested 50,000 in their 7 and the car is still stock. Most memebers on the forum don't care about how much money you plan on putting into it. For most things people say you get what you pay for...The same goes for an engine, partially. You can buy a regular old reman, tear it apart and port it by yourself. You would also save yourself a lot of money in the process as well as learn a great deal of information. But in the end the engine is only as good as the tuning. If the tuning is bad then the engine will also be bad. It's all in the tuning. If your car is tuned right then you shouldn't need all the extra BS like ceramic seals. You could put that extra 1.200 towards a lot of other things. Their are people on here who spend half the money you want to spend by doing their own stuff. In turn they are making just as much if not more power then you will be. But hey you could prove me wrong and if you do then good. I don't mind admitting im wrong. Sorry for such a long post or if I came off the wrong way, but im tired.

pgtze

well, i dont have a rx-7 but ive spend around 60k on just the engine, then another 5k on the rwd conversion. by the way if you know anyone looking for the type of work i have done, the complete CUSTOM JDM SWEET **** you all want. get in contack with scrub sports at www.scrubbersporty7.com he will hook you up big time. he will even custom make you the sr20deTTT, hes a great guy to work with and knows all his **** well.















ps. do not take any of this seriously, if you do........ i feel really bad for you

Mr. Stock

Is that for real?
You can buy a "real" rear wheel-drive sportscar for that kind of money.











PS do not take this post seriously......if you do, I'll have to think you are Don't be a Dicky"

pgtze

please re read the post............

Chronos

Sorry Scrub, I understand about the joke thing...that Dont_Be_A_Rikki guy put me in a shitty mood, so sorry I took it the wrong way.

The reason I'm doing the ceramic seals is not to get power or because it's cost effective, I'm just doing it because 1) They're easier on the housings (less friction) 2) Can withstand much much higher revs (incase of over-rev) 3) Last forever 4) Will withstand detonation better 5) Yield more torque (according to Rob) 6) They work better with water injection than metal seals. and 7) THEY'RE LIGHTER! The downside is ofcourse if one goes I'm in a shitload of trouble, but hopefully since they're 3mm and pretty strong I'll be able to back off before that happens.

I'm actually not to surprised to hear about how much money people have spent on their cars, and I know for some people a good portion of that money is spent on doing things half *** or wrong the first time around. Which is one of the reasons I'm going all out on the engine right now rather early in the modding game; the engine let go now, and I don't feel there's sense in tearing it down again later. Lastly, the only reason I mentioned how much money I plan on putting into the car is to rationalize how much I spent on the engine in comparison. If someone were just planning to run twins at close to stock power levels (like I'll be doing for a while) then I too would think it a waste to use ceramics.

**I'll be posting some more pictures shortly**

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

yeah that guy can do that. I didn't know about the ceramic seals holding up better with water injection, dont' see how it would make a difference either. But you learn something new every day

es

Ceramic apex seals are self lubricating & don't wear. This means any grooves & imperfections in the wear surface of the rotor housing will ALWAYS be a source for compression leakage, even though they are in "spec".

When using ceramic apex seals the only "Spec" is brand new until someone supplies us with re-man housings.

Personally I like 1 piece ceramics. Usually when you see an apex seal break it's the rear one, & it's the end toward the middle of the motor. I'm not sure if that's because it's the hottest spot so the metal is under more stress there, or if it's because the seal tapers down to a point, but if you look at the stats, it the point that breaks off most often. 1 piece seals have no point!

Chronos, I'm not downing your choices, as I'm sure you were after a reliable engine that would pull off a smooth idle. Nothing wrong with that. That's probably why your exhaust ports look smaller then what I'm used to seeing.

Anyhow, enjoy it & I don't think you spent too much. I think some people just need to justify to themselves why they went the less-expensive route. I already know all the aguements on both sides, but other then cost, there are no downsides to ceramics!

pgtze

safety first

who knew ceramic seals = weight reduction?










scruberfied raceing is now having a sale on 26b engines (yes ur heard it right 26b CUSTOM engines) just send me 12k in cash and wait......... wow im really having to much fun with this

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Funny ... would have liked to read Don't_be_a_ricky's post and know what all the "to do" was about.

Anyway Chronos, I went with the 3mm ceramics, check my sig. Just finished the first 2000 break in miles. As soon as I get my wideband I'll do some tuning.

Only problem is that my damn PFS purple box is refusing to control boost correctly. The vent values rise on their own during WOT driving.

Good luck with your motor ...

dubulup

vent learn OFF, right???

However on the dyno, my values kept increasing also...vent learn was off in all three settings.

Controls boost great on the street.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

they might be good now but what are they gonna look like in 20,000miles?

mike

es

They'll look better than housing used with standard apex seals. That's part of the problem with used housings & ceramics. The housings have grooves & edges/slight radius, but the ceramic apex seals never wear into the same shape of the worn housings causing lower compression.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

It doesn't seem to make a difference ... on or off. I just set all of my vent values to 1% in the windows software last night ... maybe a reset like this will help.

It's the strangest thing, I boost, vent values go up, stop and start the motor and they are back to the EPROM values ...