Pics of my Battery Relocation Project.
11-09-04, 05:34 PM
#51
Originally Posted by Houdini
Also, isn't it better to connect the positive cable directly to the alternator and not the distribution block?
11-16-04, 02:34 AM
#52
To answer a question about wire: I would suggest you forget about the "pretty" colored wire that is sold for primarily audio applications. The reason for this is that is has a relatively soft PVC jacket which is more likely to be subject to damage, particularly under adverse circumstances. (i.e., parking your car in an unusual attitude or in a tree, catching fire, etc.)
I would recommend as a first choice is [copper] welding cable. It is sold by-the-foot at most welding supply houses. Its jacket is intended for harsh environments and a certain amount of abuse. It is less abradable, very flexible, as well as heat and solvent resistant. It is probably the safest choice given the potential for a cable to be compromised. You can run over it with a forklift. Try that with your monster cable! Oh no, Mr. Bill !!!
Second choice: THHN type feeder wire--intended to be pulled through conduit and again designed to be tough. It is not as flexible or workable as the finer stranded welding cable, but you will have a choice of colors. (Don't go larger than #2 AWG or it will be difficult to handle.) And it is still much better than the crap sold through audio stores and automotive outlets. (available at electrical supply houses, home depot).
I would recommend as a first choice is [copper] welding cable. It is sold by-the-foot at most welding supply houses. Its jacket is intended for harsh environments and a certain amount of abuse. It is less abradable, very flexible, as well as heat and solvent resistant. It is probably the safest choice given the potential for a cable to be compromised. You can run over it with a forklift. Try that with your monster cable! Oh no, Mr. Bill !!!
Second choice: THHN type feeder wire--intended to be pulled through conduit and again designed to be tough. It is not as flexible or workable as the finer stranded welding cable, but you will have a choice of colors. (Don't go larger than #2 AWG or it will be difficult to handle.) And it is still much better than the crap sold through audio stores and automotive outlets. (available at electrical supply houses, home depot).
11-16-04, 11:49 AM
#53
Originally Posted by Speed of light
I would recommend as a first choice is [copper] welding cable. It is sold by-the-foot at most welding supply houses. Its jacket is intended for harsh environments and a certain amount of abuse. It is less abradable, very flexible, as well as heat and solvent resistant. It is probably the safest choice given the potential for a cable to be compromised. You can run over it with a forklift. Try that with your monster cable! Oh no, Mr. Bill !!!
Here's what I use...best deal I found.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
11-16-04, 02:05 PM
#55
With respect to the post above by PandazRx-7 regarding battery cable. The link refers to what is apparently silicoln rubber jacketed cable. As such it will have pretty good thermal and chemical resistance; however, silicoln based jackets tend to be softer and are easier to cut and abrade. You will have to weigh the importance of this fact when you make your choice.
FWIW: With respect to general weight distribution and battery location: In our drag cars--and this example is based on the typical 60's or 70's american V8 pony car--Relocating the battery from the front of the car to the farthest [right] rear point in the truck was equivalent to setting a V8 engine about 10" to 12" further back in the chassis. Obviously, this bias can and will significantly help the weight transfer of a drag car which is needed to achieve the best et's.
FWIW: With respect to general weight distribution and battery location: In our drag cars--and this example is based on the typical 60's or 70's american V8 pony car--Relocating the battery from the front of the car to the farthest [right] rear point in the truck was equivalent to setting a V8 engine about 10" to 12" further back in the chassis. Obviously, this bias can and will significantly help the weight transfer of a drag car which is needed to achieve the best et's.
11-16-04, 03:09 PM
#56
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does anyone know if an optima will fit in either storage bin? ive got a yellow top and was thinking of doing this project. also wondering if optima makes those half-sized batteries?
11-16-04, 05:02 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by JebenKurac
does anyone know if an optima will fit in either storage bin? ive got a yellow top and was thinking of doing this project. also wondering if optima makes those half-sized batteries?
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm
Your question about the half-size: Yes, Optima makes a yellow-top version for Honda applications called the 51. The correct one for mounting in the stock location is the 51R(R=reverse pole). I use it and it works great.
11-16-04, 06:24 PM
#58
Originally Posted by Speed of light
With respect to the post above by PandazRx-7 regarding battery cable. The link refers to what is apparently silicoln rubber jacketed cable. As such it will have pretty good thermal and chemical resistance; however, silicoln based jackets tend to be softer and are easier to cut and abrade. You will have to weigh the importance of this fact when you make your choice.
Fortunitly, the seller was a few miles away from me and I checked it out before I bought it. I've been using it for almost a year with no problems. My only concern was the hole in the firewall it went through, nothing a rubber grommet couldn't fix though. And if being pinched in an accident would be a concern...well, that's what a breaker is for.
11-22-04, 10:12 PM
#59
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In order to use a larger battery in the passenger bin and retain the original
compartment, I cut out the front of the bin and hinged it.
Not too noticable with the hatch closed.
I used a large conventional battery for test fitting
Jack
compartment, I cut out the front of the bin and hinged it.
Not too noticable with the hatch closed.
I used a large conventional battery for test fitting
Jack
11-22-04, 10:58 PM
#60
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You hacked your bins like that? Although it does look clean, and must be a breeze for need of repair, replace, remove (ing). I hate to be a critic but can you please clean you car :{
11-23-04, 10:49 AM
#63
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Originally Posted by jagwrjack
In order to use a larger battery in the passenger bin and retain the original
compartment, I cut out the front of the bin and hinged it.
Not too noticable with the hatch closed.
I used a large conventional battery for test fitting
Jack
compartment, I cut out the front of the bin and hinged it.
Not too noticable with the hatch closed.
I used a large conventional battery for test fitting
Jack
I can't believe people cut their car like that. I feel sorry for the 7.
11-23-04, 12:06 PM
#64
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Hey Iluvmy3rdgen,
I actually did wipe the car off. It sat disabled for 6 yrs. before I bought it.
You were 12 yrs. old when the motor took a ****.
It's amazing how many of these cars are mucked up with body kits and other ricer
garbage and the area behind the passenger seat is causing such an uproar.
I actually did wipe the car off. It sat disabled for 6 yrs. before I bought it.
You were 12 yrs. old when the motor took a ****.
It's amazing how many of these cars are mucked up with body kits and other ricer
garbage and the area behind the passenger seat is causing such an uproar.
11-23-04, 02:52 PM
#65
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by a2zpcwiz
I can't believe people cut their car like that. I feel sorry for the 7.
11-23-04, 02:56 PM
#66
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by jagwrjack
It's amazing how many of these cars are mucked up with body kits and other ricer
garbage and the area behind the passenger seat is causing such an uproar.
garbage and the area behind the passenger seat is causing such an uproar.
BTW, nice mod. I'm really impressed with how clean your cuts ended up. What did you use?
01-10-05, 09:49 PM
#68
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Originally Posted by jimlab
BTW, just so there's no confusion, the type of circuit breaker you're looking for is an automotive 12V DC circuit breaker. Don't buy an AC circuit breaker from Home Depot.
This is the Phoenix Gold circuit breaker I used (the picture below is of the 100-amp version, so make sure you get the 200-amp version).
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=263-579
This is the Phoenix Gold circuit breaker I used (the picture below is of the 100-amp version, so make sure you get the 200-amp version).
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=263-579
01-10-05, 10:55 PM
#69
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by GoRacer
What's the reasoning of the 200amp version? I bought a 150amp but after realizing the main fuse is 120amp, I think I should have got a 100 or 120amp.
The starter, on the other hand, has a direct connection to the battery distribution block not protected by a fuse. The considerable current draw from your starter can kick out a lower rated circuit breaker if the engine has trouble starting. I had a 120 amp circuit breaker originally, but after it kicked out several times one day, I got tired of it and moved up to 200 amp.
Why not get a 200 amp breaker? They cost basically the same as the lower rated models.
01-10-05, 11:23 PM
#70
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ok, thanks. The highest they had on ebay was 150. Iasked and he said he couldn't get a higher one but I beleive they can now (different brand). I may add a fuse as well, later on.
01-11-05, 01:23 AM
#72
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by FD3SR1
What about venting gasses fom the battery? if they build up in that bin that could be bad!!!
01-11-05, 01:27 AM
#73
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by GoRacer
I may add a fuse as well, later on.
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