Pic's of me @ the track on my 10 sec pass
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,807
Likes: 648
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally posted by ErnieT
No, I have the Kaaz.
And let me make this crystal clear for everyone. I have no doubts that Dave (KDR) is a good mechanic, but there is a huge difference between a tuner and mechanic. A tuner, he's not. To state he's made good power on stock twins isn't some dubeus feat. Its been done for years on end. The maps for the power fc, pms, and haltech all will be pretty much the same.
He's yet to tune a customer in the many years he's been in business that has went 10's. Thats a fact. For example, you ever see the dyno GMonsen posted not long ago? Dave let off at around 6800rpms on every run. Ever wonder why? Because of all the motors he's blown, he was scared to death to blow Gordon's again. Chalk it up to lack of knowledge, confidence, whatever, all Im saying is if your looking to make a lot of power and race, he's not your tuner. I didn't feel like having a nice thread get into a flame war, but it makes me pretty pissed off when somebody assumes something and knows nothing of the situation. I spent over $20,000 in one year w/ KDR. Half of which are on motors.
Another thing. You guys and this break in bullshit. Demetrios K. (Reactive Racing) built his motor, droped in his car and dynoed the next day at 25lbs of boost, on stock apex seals. Same motor for over a year now. No break in needed guys, sorry. Maybe if it was a brand spankin new motor, from the gound up, but your not getting that unless you live in Japan. What do you think your breaking in anyhow? Slabs of steel (apex seals)? Springs holding them in place? Come on, think about it, instead of following everyone else. There are very few moving parts in our engines, none of which need to be "broke in". For instance, when you purchase a Reman, it states nothing about break in, because there isn't any! Don't bother aguring with me, you'll waste your breath.
No, I have the Kaaz.
And let me make this crystal clear for everyone. I have no doubts that Dave (KDR) is a good mechanic, but there is a huge difference between a tuner and mechanic. A tuner, he's not. To state he's made good power on stock twins isn't some dubeus feat. Its been done for years on end. The maps for the power fc, pms, and haltech all will be pretty much the same.
He's yet to tune a customer in the many years he's been in business that has went 10's. Thats a fact. For example, you ever see the dyno GMonsen posted not long ago? Dave let off at around 6800rpms on every run. Ever wonder why? Because of all the motors he's blown, he was scared to death to blow Gordon's again. Chalk it up to lack of knowledge, confidence, whatever, all Im saying is if your looking to make a lot of power and race, he's not your tuner. I didn't feel like having a nice thread get into a flame war, but it makes me pretty pissed off when somebody assumes something and knows nothing of the situation. I spent over $20,000 in one year w/ KDR. Half of which are on motors.
Another thing. You guys and this break in bullshit. Demetrios K. (Reactive Racing) built his motor, droped in his car and dynoed the next day at 25lbs of boost, on stock apex seals. Same motor for over a year now. No break in needed guys, sorry. Maybe if it was a brand spankin new motor, from the gound up, but your not getting that unless you live in Japan. What do you think your breaking in anyhow? Slabs of steel (apex seals)? Springs holding them in place? Come on, think about it, instead of following everyone else. There are very few moving parts in our engines, none of which need to be "broke in". For instance, when you purchase a Reman, it states nothing about break in, because there isn't any! Don't bother aguring with me, you'll waste your breath.
You're telling me that all of those blown motors were Dave's fault? I think there's more to the story than that. You're obviously pissed and venting, but it's coming off like sour grapes when the only person who has come forward with similar views is that village idiot Wankawankel.
I agree with you about the break-in procedure. I've seen the way Kan drives his drag car after we rebuild it, and he doesn't exactly keep the revs/boost low.....
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,392
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From: Mechanicsburg, PA USA
Nice runs Ernie! So your about a second fasterthan you were with the stock twins..pretty sweet. I know since Dave has gotten the datalogit for the PFC that he's had a lot of success tuning FDs with singles, stock and upgraded twins. He said 90% of his customers are switching to single turbos. I know there's some bad blood between you guys and I'm sure your both at fault. Oh well, as long as you're happy with your tuner now, then that's great. 10s is pretty awesome and you should break 130 mph traps soon. Hope everything goes well for you.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,541
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From: Abingdon, Md
Originally posted by kwikrx7
Nice runs Ernie! So your about a second fasterthan you were with the stock twins..pretty sweet. I know since Dave has gotten the datalogit for the PFC that he's had a lot of success tuning FDs with singles, stock and upgraded twins. He said 90% of his customers are switching to single turbos. I know there's some bad blood between you guys and I'm sure your both at fault. Oh well, as long as you're happy with your tuner now, then that's great. 10s is pretty awesome and you should break 130 mph traps soon. Hope everything goes well for you.
Nice runs Ernie! So your about a second fasterthan you were with the stock twins..pretty sweet. I know since Dave has gotten the datalogit for the PFC that he's had a lot of success tuning FDs with singles, stock and upgraded twins. He said 90% of his customers are switching to single turbos. I know there's some bad blood between you guys and I'm sure your both at fault. Oh well, as long as you're happy with your tuner now, then that's great. 10s is pretty awesome and you should break 130 mph traps soon. Hope everything goes well for you.
maybe i missed something in one of these threads of yours. did you get a cage? didnt look at all the pics, but i didnt see one in the pic posted i looked at. 
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,014
Likes: 40
From: CT
Ernie or whoever can answer....how do u guys go about doing a burnout?
Also, what is safer on the rear differential...drag radials or ET Streets? Which is better for less wheel hop...? I get o ton of wheel hop even if i drop the clutch at 2700 rpms.
thanks!
Also, what is safer on the rear differential...drag radials or ET Streets? Which is better for less wheel hop...? I get o ton of wheel hop even if i drop the clutch at 2700 rpms.
thanks!
Last edited by matty; Oct 31, 2002 at 07:38 AM.
1JZ powered
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Originally posted by matty
Ernie or whoever can answer....how do u guys go about doing a burnout?
Also, what is safer on the rear differential...drag radials or ET Streets? Which is better for less wheel hop...? I get o ton of wheel hop even if i drop the clutch at 2700 rpms.
thanks!
Ernie or whoever can answer....how do u guys go about doing a burnout?
Also, what is safer on the rear differential...drag radials or ET Streets? Which is better for less wheel hop...? I get o ton of wheel hop even if i drop the clutch at 2700 rpms.
thanks!
When I dump higher, I get little to no wheel hop. When I dump lower, I get TONS of it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 0
From: Abingdon, Md
Originally posted by matty
Ernie or whoever can answer....how do u guys go about doing a burnout?
Also, what is safer on the rear differential...drag radials or ET Streets? Which is better for less wheel hop...? I get o ton of wheel hop even if i drop the clutch at 2700 rpms.
thanks!
Ernie or whoever can answer....how do u guys go about doing a burnout?
Also, what is safer on the rear differential...drag radials or ET Streets? Which is better for less wheel hop...? I get o ton of wheel hop even if i drop the clutch at 2700 rpms.
thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
From: GA
Originally posted by Rx-Revin
hey silver7 what do you mean that the side housings are to be lapped.Could u explain Please...
hey silver7 what do you mean that the side housings are to be lapped.Could u explain Please...
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,541
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From: Abingdon, Md
Originally posted by Rx-Revin
Now I understand thanks..is it true that a reman engine has a slight port in it.this is what i heard
Now I understand thanks..is it true that a reman engine has a slight port in it.this is what i heard
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,807
Likes: 648
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
A remanufactured engine has had all of the housings, both rotors, etc inspected and replaced if certain tolerances are not met. When my original motor went back in May of 2001 Dave recommended I go with a Malloy Mazda reman b/c the last dozen or so he had pulled apart had new rotors and rotor housings. I followed his advice, and when he pulled apart my motor to port the sumbitch, we were happy to discover that he was right 
.
Sometime within the next 6 months or so Kan and I are going to pull my motor apart to freshen it and give it the special "Steve-o Port" that has made my bud Alan's FD so freakin' fast. Combine that with some BNR Stage 2's and I'll be lookin' at a streetable, boost at 3k street monster.
.Sometime within the next 6 months or so Kan and I are going to pull my motor apart to freshen it and give it the special "Steve-o Port" that has made my bud Alan's FD so freakin' fast. Combine that with some BNR Stage 2's and I'll be lookin' at a streetable, boost at 3k street monster
.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,807
Likes: 648
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally posted by yzf-r1
crap Rich, do you spend every penny you make on your car?
must be nice to have disposable cash
crap Rich, do you spend every penny you make on your car?
must be nice to have disposable cash
. I have no wife, kids, or pets. Also, when labor is free (the DIY method) it helps to cut costs.My turbos are original (with 92k miles) and I'm sure they're going to need replacement soon. That, and I need some more power. I didn't say I was getting an HKS T-51 Kai, I said I was going BNR Stage 2.....$1650 retail isn't too bad at all for over 400 to the ground at 15 psi
Rich
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; Nov 1, 2002 at 10:29 AM.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,926
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From: fort worth, tx, usa
I have to agree and disagree on the break-in part. There're a few things that needs to break-in. If you have new rotor and stationary gear bearings, you should break-in the motor (at least 300-500 miles) unless you sand the bearings down before insert them into the motor (in this case, you can get away with it with 50-100 miles). Clearances also make a big difference. I normally size the bearings one size larger than needed so that I have more clearance for higher rev. This also allow more oil to lubricate the bearing and E-shaft. Apex seals on the other hand don't really need any break-in. You can pretty much run full force after about 10 miles since most of the wear to seat itself is generally pretty much seated after about 10 miles. Side seals and corner seals on the other hand hardly ever wear out. The only wear you'll ever see is where the end of the side seal rubbing against the corner seal (which lowers your compression). Other than what I stated above. breaking-in a motor is a waste of time unless you have new bearings.
just my .02
just my .02
Originally posted by ErnieT
No, I have the Kaaz.
And let me make this crystal clear for everyone. I have no doubts that Dave (KDR) is a good mechanic, but there is a huge difference between a tuner and mechanic. A tuner, he's not. To state he's made good power on stock twins isn't some dubeus feat. Its been done for years on end. The maps for the power fc, pms, and haltech all will be pretty much the same.
He's yet to tune a customer in the many years he's been in business that has went 10's. Thats a fact. For example, you ever see the dyno GMonsen posted not long ago? Dave let off at around 6800rpms on every run. Ever wonder why? Because of all the motors he's blown, he was scared to death to blow Gordon's again. Chalk it up to lack of knowledge, confidence, whatever, all Im saying is if your looking to make a lot of power and race, he's not your tuner. I didn't feel like having a nice thread get into a flame war, but it makes me pretty pissed off when somebody assumes something and knows nothing of the situation. I spent over $20,000 in one year w/ KDR. Half of which are on motors.
Another thing. You guys and this break in bullshit. Demetrios K. (Reactive Racing) built his motor, droped in his car and dynoed the next day at 25lbs of boost, on stock apex seals. Same motor for over a year now. No break in needed guys, sorry. Maybe if it was a brand spankin new motor, from the gound up, but your not getting that unless you live in Japan. What do you think your breaking in anyhow? Slabs of steel (apex seals)? Springs holding them in place? Come on, think about it, instead of following everyone else. There are very few moving parts in our engines, none of which need to be "broke in". For instance, when you purchase a Reman, it states nothing about break in, because there isn't any! Don't bother aguring with me, you'll waste your breath.
No, I have the Kaaz.
And let me make this crystal clear for everyone. I have no doubts that Dave (KDR) is a good mechanic, but there is a huge difference between a tuner and mechanic. A tuner, he's not. To state he's made good power on stock twins isn't some dubeus feat. Its been done for years on end. The maps for the power fc, pms, and haltech all will be pretty much the same.
He's yet to tune a customer in the many years he's been in business that has went 10's. Thats a fact. For example, you ever see the dyno GMonsen posted not long ago? Dave let off at around 6800rpms on every run. Ever wonder why? Because of all the motors he's blown, he was scared to death to blow Gordon's again. Chalk it up to lack of knowledge, confidence, whatever, all Im saying is if your looking to make a lot of power and race, he's not your tuner. I didn't feel like having a nice thread get into a flame war, but it makes me pretty pissed off when somebody assumes something and knows nothing of the situation. I spent over $20,000 in one year w/ KDR. Half of which are on motors.
Another thing. You guys and this break in bullshit. Demetrios K. (Reactive Racing) built his motor, droped in his car and dynoed the next day at 25lbs of boost, on stock apex seals. Same motor for over a year now. No break in needed guys, sorry. Maybe if it was a brand spankin new motor, from the gound up, but your not getting that unless you live in Japan. What do you think your breaking in anyhow? Slabs of steel (apex seals)? Springs holding them in place? Come on, think about it, instead of following everyone else. There are very few moving parts in our engines, none of which need to be "broke in". For instance, when you purchase a Reman, it states nothing about break in, because there isn't any! Don't bother aguring with me, you'll waste your breath.
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