HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I should be picking up an 94 FD if I am able to workout a price with the seller. He already has some moderate mods on the car.

It is a remanufactured engine with 25k on it, Greddy Intakes, PFS Intercooler, HKS Mild Steel DP, Racing Beat Dual Tip Exhaust, RPS Performance clutch (street disc with a sport pressure plate), Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys, M2 radiator, aluminum AST, Greddy Profec B spec II, Greddy turbo timer, Tokico Struts, and HKS BOV.

Maintence on the car is in great shape, replaced all bushings 3 years ago, new oem water pump, o2 sensor, motor mounts, oilpan, t-stat, turbo coolant hoses, and battery, so maintence is in good shape.

Basically what I want is mods that are going to keep the engine reliable. I am not looking to make the car into the fastest car out there, but just good and reliable mods that will PASS SMOG.

Someone told me to do a Street Port and it'll get me in the mid 300's to the wheels. I was looking at a high flow cat, and more looks than performance, but I like both.

I'm looking at options of (performance and appearance)

Performance:
Street port
high flow cat

Appearance:
Tint
Body kit
Wheels
Audio

Jay7 Nyc

iTrader: (3)

Read all the Stickies listed in the 3rd gen section. Then come back with questions, everything is listed just about as far as reliablity..

Sneak

with a street port from my understanding kiss that smog test "pass" out the window... just do what I do regester the car where you dont need to pass that smog crap...

rynberg

Just leave the car alone as is, if you want reliable. If you just got to have more power, I would go with a Pettit/M2 ecu....for $400 you can pick up a used one and run 12 psi.

A streetport would require a full engine rebuild! Since you didn't know that, go back and read through the links in the newbie sticky....

As far as "appearance" or audio mods, do what you want. I'm always confused when people come on here to ask what body modifications they should do....

rynberg

Not true. I passed 4 months ago on a fresh rebuilt engine with 200 miles on it.....with intake, SMIC, hi-flow cat, streetport, bigger secondaries, etc., with a PFC and the CEL rigged to come on at startup.

The only two reasons that an FD won't pass the sniffer test are:

1) too much emissions equipment has been removed. All you need to pass is a hi-flow cat and the airpump.

2) the car isn't running properly.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

rynberg, I know that you have to take the engine apart and then rebuild it on a street port lol, I hope you didn't think that I thought it was just a "part" I'm not that "newbie"

BlueRex

Wow sounds like a sweet ride

If you want more power the car is capable of supporting 12 psi as is with a remapped ecu (pettit/M2, etc) or a tuned PFC. An HKS Twin Power would be a nice upgrade as well (more power and better mpg). The car can support more boost with upgraded injectors and fuel pump.

Reliability wise the radiator and AST will be fine. If there are ever some major vacuum problems with the sequential twin system then silicone/viton vacuum lines would be a good investment, but currently the sequential system is operating correctly so no need to mess with a good thing.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, it is a great looking ride I must say, hopefully I'll be able to pick it up

Raceshop

I thought you were in the market for a LS1 car

rexhvn

Sounds like a good ride. Hope you get and hope you enjoy it. Just like to say though, make sure you do the reliability mods like bluerex said to have a good relaible engine.
Goodluck.

alberto_mg

What he said.

Don't get mod happy. Its not worth it.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Yes I know, I'm not looking to turn this car into a street racer or a power monster. This is going to be my daily driver so I'm not going to be doing anything to the car that may put the engine at risk.

scratchjunkie

engine will always be reliable, its the components you will mostly worry about. just have a creditcard or extra cash on hand when your oil pan starts leaking, coolant hoses leaking, and sequential turbo problems.

i also noticed you have no sort of ecu on the car. i think tuning is the best reliability mod that you should consider.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If I were you, I'd start by replacing the rest of the coolant hoses. That's a bunch of failure points taken care of immediately. Also find out when the fuel filter was last done. I don't see why the high-flow cat is in the list, unless you intend for it to be a power mod.

Then, I would (at my convenience) do the rats nest job and test all the solenoids, and get the injectors cleaned well. If you're not patient and into somewhat tedious work on your car, you might want to until you lose boost or get a code from one of the solenoids, which could be quite a while. Or one of the solenoids might get lazy and affect your boost pattern tomorrow. (There's no easy answer to this issue, but I'm a firm believe that testing is effective in sorting out the bad or weak solenoids).

As for reliability at 300rwhp, I suggest you do it at the lowest possible boost. So that means start with a PFC, high flow cat, and boost controller (manual or electronic), and get it tuned *well* for running at 10psi. Do this all at once so you aren't running any half-*** setups in between. Then no more power mods. Higher boost = lower reliability; all else held the same.

Dave