wickedrx7

iTrader: (14)

Sealed lead acid is the way to go. You could go with a smaller sealed battery the PC680 but people have issues with them draining down if you don't drive that much. Don't go with a Optima, they are not sealed and should be vented. Plus, personally I think they suck.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

why do you need a breaker? i got the small odyssey battery and they put it in the passenger side bin no problem, but i dont have a breaker in there nor that bracket, mines kinda tied down from the side, i will try to take a picture later.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Some of you guys are jumping to conclusions.

The Westco battery is safe to use in the cabin. The battery cable gauge is more than sufficient as well. Well priced kit overall. Probably won't be able to duplicate for much less than the price mentioned.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Read this thread about Battery Relocation:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/battery-relocation-writeup-533616/#post5577123

There is info in there about why you need a breaker. Around here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...er#post6385667

All this is in the FAQ

Finster

iTrader: (1)

Pettit's kit does NOT come with a breaker go figure...

^I like this last set up because you dont see any cuts or holes from the normal seating locations. Clever
Every write-up Ive seen includes a breaker in the set up. I dont know why Pettit doesnt include it. oh well

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Few kits come with a breaker. Mainly because pretty much all kits I have seen are ~$100 worth of parts thrown together into a box and marked up 2 to 3 times this cost.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

They are not sealed?!?!?!? Straight from the optima brochure and I do not really think they can lie as to whether it is sealed or not.

"SPIRALCELL Technology makes the OPTIMA battery the most advanced battery
available. Its unique spiral-wound plate design gives OPTIMA the lowest internal
resistance of any battery on the market. No other battery can provide OPTIMA’s
performance and true ‘Zero Maintenance’ operation. OPTIMA batteries are
completely sealed and have specially designed, corrosion free terminals: no
checking or adding water; no cleaning terminals or trays; no extra work! The
SPIRALCELL design keeps OPTIMA batteries performing under the most extreme
conditions."

I always seemed to have the infamous click, click, click, start problem after switching to the WestCo. Never had it before, and it has not happened one time after removing it. And if my car sat for a couple weeks it would have a hard time starting. No hesitations whatsoever after going with the optima. Maybe I am the exception, but either way I am still glad I went away from it.

For basically the same reason you have fuses elsewhere in you car... I would recommend you install a breaker, but to each his own if you decide not to.

wickedrx7

iTrader: (14)

They are sealed against spilling but should be vented if installed in the inside of a car so I am not sure how they are completely sealed. They have two vents on the top that can release hydrogen I believe. The only reason I know this is cause NASA racing requires a vented battery box for Optimas and not for a "true" sealed battery like come with pettits kit.

Straight from Optimas website: http://www.optimabatteries.com/produ...qs.php#fitment

#2 Trunk/Interior Mounting – If your battery is mounted inside the passenger compartment or trunk (common in many European makes), the battery must be vented to the outside of the vehicle. OPTIMA group 27, 51, 78, 34C, and 31 batteries all have ports for connecting a vent hose.

kyleaudio

iTrader: (22)

probably the biggest reason you need a breaker (or fuse) especially in a custom install like this where the positive wire most likely will be run through tight areas, through holes and whatnot, there is a possibility that the wire insulation may get pinched or rubbed through, and if the wire touches the chassis (ground) without a breaker or fuse, bad things would happen, so with any install weather it is a battery relocation, stereo install etc. you need a fuse/circuit breaker as close to the battery as you can just for safety.

and as for the "click, click, click" i guess different cars just work different, i havnt had a single problem with mine yet. i'll definitely post something if i do have problems down the road tho.

kyle

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Oh I wasn't saying that you are/might. Just that I did and changing the battery immediately corrected it. I checked and I am not losing any power anywhere so I turned to the battery just being insufficient. What is kinda strange is it should be enough cranking amps b/c I do not run any stereo equipment or anything.

Thank you for posting that. I stand corrected and I will be rectifying my car. I apologize for being incorrect.

Finster

iTrader: (1)

So the WestCo does not need venting but the Optima does...
Makes for a better choice for a "kit" then.
...yes this kit does seem to be tossed together and marked up. (it should still come with some kind of instructions or basic install guidelines...)
from the examples of good work I've seen on here I think I can work with what I got

Miata_mx5

Braille battery + mounting kit.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

another thing to consider with the optima's is that once they're dead, they're dead, there's no reconditioning them and all they're good for is a decoration. However they take forever to go dead and can usually be reconditioned if they even have a little charge left.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Hmm,I wouldn't mind having that bracket on my Turbo II. The Optima Red Top fits in the 2nd gen storage bins easily.

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

I did my battery relocation myself costed 1/2 of that and got way better wire, better box, and fuses.

WiredRebel

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I know im bring this thread back from the dead but I have a question for all of you.

What do you guys think of this setup:

I just purchased a sealed battery box and I plan on running a sealed battery(havent gotten that far yet and will decide as soon as I know what battery I need).

My plan is to remove the rear bins completely(snapped mine in half and dont care) and just bolt the box down to the body. After doing that I'm going to run a 4gauge power wire with a 120 amp waffer fuse and a 0gauge ground wire probably run to the strut tower.

What do you guys think of that? If you would change something in this setup what would it be and why?

Thanks for your time and sorry for raising another thread from the dead