wideband and tuning is extra

hey, it's the money pit! accurate tuning and a wideband read-out is worth it imo, will help my peace of mind....maybe

 

I can see we are all basically on the same page, just trying to argue the point differently. As said back on page 1 on this thread, if the owner wants ~320-340ish rwhp, and is sticking with the stock turbos, I think the pettit is hands down the best bet. Its been tried and proven as a great computer that delivers the power and performance for a good price, and is fully plug and play. The PFC could definately do just as well, if not slightly better, but at over twice the price when you get into tuning and equipment. Im sure we all know that, but I dont think the Pettit is at all a "band-aid", or anything of that sort.

As for my personal 14psi comment, I run 94 Octane and a high-flow cat. Ive never had a spike or creep, even one frigid 20* days.

 

the main reason I mentioned the cold weather, in your case, was because the car will run leaner with increased air density....would be intresting to see what your AFRs are at 14 psi on a 20F night! of course the cat is still somewhat of a bottleneck, I always ran a mp

 

Sorry for the newb question, but are you saying that they just do a generic reflash, rather than a custom reflash based on mods? So you'll get the same flash if you have an intake, intercooler and exhuast as the guy who has just a downpipe?

 

Yes. There is only one map. This is the reason I don't recommend this ECU (or any upgraded computer) for people who are running stock boost. It's not needed at the stock boost level.

 

I don't want to take this thread off topic, but what engine managment would you recomend for someone who wants to get more power with an intake, downpipe and exhaust, but must run stock boost and boost controller for a specific racing class? I'm only allowed to reflash the stock computer and cannot run a piggy back, stand alone, or aftermarket boost controller (even if its programmed for stock boost). I've been told that its not safe to run the stock ECU with I/E/DP

 

per the 3 mod rule, assuming you stay at 10 psi, you can run intake, dp, and cb on the stock ECU...I did it for a couple of years....you will need a good manual boost controller, though, to control boost spikes and boost in general

 

Ok, now that I've got the cursing out of my system. If you read my second post, the first one you referenced you will see I said "I need the peace of mind and some fexibility". I never said it was the jesus christ coming to save my engine from knock. Don't be so ignorant and preachy. THAT is what is wrong with this forum. Misinformation on the internet is the motus operandi. Thats life, deal. Smart, motivated people can sort the cream from the crap. I have supported both options in context and cant for the life of me figure out why youre gunning for me. Quit it. Im succeptible to pissing contests.

 

Good MBC's are illegal in my racing class. I must use a reflashed stock ECU to maintain stock boost.

 

you should be able to port your wastegate...try a search

 

Again, thats a modification to the boost control system, and illegal in my class.

 

I'm with Mahjik.

I've talked to Mr. Aoki (Ecu Tuner) at RE Amemiya few years back and this is what he told me.
"You should first think about what you are going to do with your car first. The only down side with rom tuned ecu is that it's limitation due to limited map area. (stock ecu: 15 x 13, where as the HKS F-Con V pro has 32 x 32 map area.)
If you are staying some where around 1.0kgs^cm2 of boost with stock twins, and stock port, it is far better to stick with rom turned ecu, since rom tuned ecu will contain many data from the stock ecu which will help you protect the engine. (safer, and more practical for street.) If you are looking to get higher hp from fine-tuning, those stock data will be on the way and they will be required to be changed, thus using stand alone ecu with larger map area will be more beneficial."

 

Quit what? Reading what you post and instead try to extrapolate what you mean?

Your first line of the post was "I'm going with the pfc(and planning on getting it tuned) because I want more miles out of my engine." So, exactly how did I misinterpret that statement?

My whole point from the beginning was the let other people know, who read that statement; simply replacing the ECU with a PFC doesn't necessarily mean your engine is going to get more miles.

Sorry, but that was your statement, word for word.

 

That's a good point since some ECU's (like the PFC) ignore things such as knock retardation which can save an engine.

 

If your boost is really elevated with just those mods, then switch restrictor pills in the wastegate line. It is a truly invisible modification and you can maintain boost to 10 psi.

 

Hey I was reading through the posts on the Pettit vs. PFC and now I am not sure if I made the correct decision to buy the PFC. I bought the Apexi intake (already have a DP, Cat) and based on what I had read it was best for the car to go with the PFC. At the same time I am not looking to open Pandora's box and change things for the worse. I enjoy my power but wanted to keep it reliable by adding the ECU for the mods listed. If I ran the intake, DP & Cat on the stock ECU, basically a boost controller would be OK? I am in Colorado where the altitude is a factor wasn't sure if that made a difference. We do have a tuner coming out in a few months and I know this would fine tune things even more. Overall just want reliability, and be able to enjoy the car for years to come!

Thanks for your input, don't mean to hijack the thread...thanks

 

The stock ecu will handle those modifications just fine and will still be VERY safe. You may need some form of boost control. The PFC runs the car much better overall (other than the A/C problems many experience) than the stock ecu. The base map that ships with the PFC is safe for those mods at 10-11 psi and will be good to drive on until you get it tuned properly.

 

is there an "official" fix for the AC problem?

 

Ok thanks I am going to stick with it, just don't want to encounter any major challenges because of an upgrade that was not right for my goals. If it is an improvement over the stock then it looks like the right thing to do.