jimlab

Then why did you use a Turbo II bellhousing?

It's been awhile (~2 years), but I believe that the starter is/was the main problem. The buyer for my engine brought an auto bellhousing to bolt a starter to in order to kick over the engine for a compression test, and if I remember correctly, said that the rear plate would have to be swapped to bolt to an FD 5M and use the stock starter. Sorry, but I don't remember any other details. I never got to that point myself, so I'm just going on information from someone else on this one.

rotarynews.com

If you need any help, don't hesitate to call any of us in the local club... While I can't speak for their interest, Harry's (HN) a master at the sequential turbos in the Cosmo, and Ted's done a think or 50 with the 3 rotor too... I've only done an engine replacement on the FD, but I know a good bit about the workings of the 13BREW..

I can also offer a place to host any of the info you collect in your conversion process.

--dan

silvr94r2

iTrader: (3)

You live here huh? We should meet some time. My email is turborx7@lvcm.com

Shoot me a line sometime

AJatx

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking into a 20B FD conversion.

I have the itemized list that Pettit Racing sent me with one of their customer cars.


Right now, I don't know that many places that source the ignition coils (atkins for $450) and exhaust manifolds for a t04-based turbocharger (alamo, but it's $$$$$).

Any other places?

J

mmaragos

I think that you could custom fab an exhaust manifold for a t04-based turbo. I don't know if it helps, but Mazdatrix lists a 20B exhaust engine flange http://www.mazdatrix.com/e7.htm for $44. This might help. Find a good exhaust shop or performance shop to work with. They will be able to bend the tubing and weld it together with the flanges. Try to get a pic of the one from Alamo, maybe you can use that as a guide.