Hi all, I just got an FD with a PFS yellow computer with the keyboard (attached pic)
It also has an adjustable little wheel into the ashtray that I was told it can increase the power (probably the boost) but actually it doesn´t. Then I remove the ashtray and realised it has a wire cut, I connected it but still nothing...

I am looking for the instructions for this yellow PFS ECU but I cannot find it anywhere, so if anyone can help me I will be really pleased

Thanks a lot guys

 

wait isn't that the famous PFS motor eater? I wouldn't **** with it if I were you.

 

Wow I thought those things crashed from the y2k bug.....


My suggestion

 

Montego, can you tell me why please?

Maybe that is the reason that the adjuster is not working and my downpipe has no converter (probably the first engine has gone and this is a JDM one?)

 

It would be my pleasure...

Connect the "keyboard" computer to your PC with a serial cable then navigate to control panel and press the button below and you should be all set




I take no responsibility for what actually happens if you do what I suggested above... Because I just made that up and it will do absolutely nothing.

::Waits patiently for Mahjik to delete my posts::

 

^lol...

on a serious note:

No that wouldn't be why it's not working. In fact by not having a precat the car should have an easier time boosting (less back pressure).

But seriously you need to a stop ******* with it! Especially that power adjuster ****... That PFS ECU was known for blowing up motors. That's why it's nickname is "motor eater". My suggestion to you is to purchase another ECU.

But your question was regarding a manual. Contact PFS directly and ask them about a it. www.pfsupercars.com Given that they are under a new ownership, it would be a good idea to also ask them on their thoughts on their predecessor's ECU... But I'm telling you many people have kissed their motors goodbye using that same ECU.

Good luck.

 

Ok, thanks

I meant that maybe it is not working on this 2nd engine (disconnected because having already blown the first)
My English is not the best..

Do you know the reason it blows engines? it suddently runs much leaner than it has to, excesive ignition advance, uncontroller boost?

 

I am glad someone rescued this thread! Good advice!

 

Throw it in the trash and have someone install a real standalone.

 

PFS PMC came in a few different iterations that were noted by color. Purple being the latest with Gold being earlier. Gold reportedly had problems controlling boost. However, at that point in time, many may not have understood the issues around boost creep which could have contributed to the myths.

The PMC is a piggyback ECU and is rather old technology. While it will work, it's dated compared to what's available today. I doubt you will find too much information today on it.

 

I never had one so I don't know the details of what exactly was going with them. I have my ideas but it would be wrong to say them, as they are just that. Ideas.

 

www.fd3s.net has a manual under the "how to" tab and then "engine computer"...

 

Thanks man!

 

I heard the purple ones were the worst. "Purple Peter Motor Eater" All the same I strongly suggest replacing it ASAP. Back in the day before the PFC, this was one of the only choices that people could tune with. I went with a Pettit and had many "conversations" with other owners regarding these units. They blasted me saying my choice was just a re-chip with no ability to tune. I told them they had two computers fighting with each other. After a dyno day I no longer had to defend my ECU choice. No motors were lost but fuel cut was a problem with nearly every pull with the PFS units.

Today I don't know anybody still running these units. I am still happy with my Pettit except that I can't go to larger injectors.

 

simple fix for the ECU throw it away replace with power FC

 

Unfortunately, there is a lot of hearsay and misinformation in this thread. I, as have others, have used the PMC for years with good results and no problems. It works fine if you set it up and use it properly. Additionally, the boost controller on the later units is excellent, better than the PFC's

Get the manual and try it out; you can do quite a bit with the purple box before you need to step up to something else.

 

Thanks for the info

I have also considered to use the 3 programs only for ignition and fuel settings and leave the boost control fro another device without that solenoid-pills..
I was worried about the boost control.. I have the Gold box, is it any good in controlling boost?

 

You need to check and see what version of firmware you have. Read the hand controller display as you power it up, or you can query the box with a laptop & terminal emulator (9600,8,N,1) IIRC.

 

It works differently on almost every car lol. I had one back in the day and hated it. It would get fuel cut like crazy. But then I heard people with no problems at all with it. My first FD was a Cali car, so maybe that had something to do with it. If you have any questions, my advise would be to call Ray Wilson of PFS. If anyone can help you its him, but imo, if your on stock twins and want something easy you can forget about, get the Pettit unlimited chip and call it a day. If you want more adjustability, get a power fc.

 

I put the knock sensor on the rear iron which eliminated any tendency to fuel cut. In some cases PF relocated the knock sensors to the alternator bracket to solve the problem.

 

The only difference between a 49 state legal and 50 state legal car was that there was switch on the EGR letting the smog tester know that the EGR was functioning for California's smog testing. Thats it.

P.S. Having to move a knock sensor to combat fuel cut? Gross.

 

I wasn't a big fan of it. Never had any luck with it, but never popped a motor on it either. Car just never ran well.

 

Fuel cut was a knock sensor problem. Moved it to alternator bracket and problem solved.

I ran the PFS Purple box, stock sequential turbos, the small PFS intercooler & PFS cold air kit and an 11.6 - with a cat - and still passed Maryland emissions. The system worked really well. On the other hand, mine was tuned by Peter on his dyno.

There were 3 settings, stock boost, around 11-12 lbs and a 14 or 15 for use with race gas. Ray Wilson can sort it out for you but until he does, you don't know how it might have been messed with. I would unplug it.

 

Thanks a lot for your help, I will probably keep it controlling the boost with a MBC and only using it for fuel adjustements and as a FCD

Thanks guys