BLKTOPTRVL

My passenger window would not move. So I removed the door panel and applied power directly. The window then started down. I stopped it before it bottomed.

So I reversed the 12v power leads and nothing happened.

Thinking the window might have jammed, I removed the glass and tried the motor again. Now I get no movement at all.

So I removed the regulator and tried again on the bench. No soap.

Next, I separated the motor's rotor (rectangular component screwed onto regulator) from the stator. From the attached picture you can see that the brushes in the stator are worn and that there is a lot of worn carbon(?) debris in the stator.

I will go look for a book article on repairing motors, but if anyone has any experience, maybe you could answer these questions...

• What should I use to clean the stator? Is spraying it with Lectra-Motive and then letting it air dry to remove the carbon a good idea? Or will I need to get something like a gun barrel cleaning rod to be sure all the particles are removed? I recognize that I will then have to re-lube the end bearing (or bushing), I am thinking white lithium?
• How do I identify the brushes needed? If I can't identify and order the brushes, then I think I will need to take the motor to a repair shop and let them do it all. I will remove the brushes tomorrow and measure them.
• I think traditionally there is a pin used to hold the brushes back while assembling the motor. Since I don't see any such hole, I am guessing I can partially assemble the motor and then use a mini screwdriver to force the brushes back in on the springs as I insert the shaft?

Of course, I am going this route because the regulator is no longer available from any source I can find. Same with this motor.
But I have found that the Advanced Auto site lists Doorman Part # 83094 as a replacement that will fit.

I am still waiting for a confirmation of that from Advance, I will also contact Doorman to be sure.

BTW, the Part Number Printed on the Motor Rotor Casing is... "36301-61736 12V 3 Y 2" It was manufactured by a company named "Koito". When I searched for the name and part number, I found this page...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AZGI...f2afd6e3480-11

At forst glance, it looks like a very similar unit, I will measure my motor tomorrow and see if I can find a match.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You could probably find a good used motor or whole regulator for a good price. The power window motors on the FD are pretty hardy, I don't think it would be too much for a good used regulator or motor.

Dale

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

I have a spare or two.

BLKTOPTRVL

Thanks again for the input Dale.

Molotovman, I sent you a PM. Thanks

BLKTOPTRVL

My problem with the window continues, so I will post more details here as I continue to try to diagnose it. (Green text is what has been done so far.)

1. passenger window would move up and down slowly and became unreliable.
2. finally the window went up, but would not come back down.
3. I removed the door panel and applied power directly to the motor and it moved down, but would not reverse and go back up.
4. pulled the regulator to try to bench test it. It moved up and then stopped moving. It would not move down. I assumed I had somehow damaged it when bench testing.
5. tried several times to connect 12 volts directly to the motor and still could not get it to move.
   1. So, I took the motor apart to see what it looked like inside... to see if it maybe needed a good cleaning or something.
   2. Cleaned the motor, removing all the cast off carbon from the brushes and removing some of the carbon buildup from the stator.
   3. I put the motor back together and tested it again, and still got no movement.
6. found a used regulator with motor on ebay, obtained it. When trying to bench test, no results. It would not move up or down.
7. at this point I figured something was wrong with the test leads I am using (not getting enough amperage?), so I installed the ebay regulator into the car.
   1. when connected and the switch thrown, it moved up, but would not go down. Opposite of the the other motor.
   2. Just out of curiosity I tried the original motor again and it move again when I pushed the up button, but would do nothing when I pressed down.
8. So, at this point I figure...
   1. the original motor was good and the fact that it would not go down was a red herring.
   2. I successfully took it apart, cleaned it, and got it back together without damaging it.
   3. the motor needs to be grounded on the car in order to work(?) Not from what I have read, but it only moves when in the car.
   4. the actual problem is with one of the switches
   5. the actual problem may also be the wiring through the door I will try to read the schematics and figure out how to test the driver and passenger side switches.
   6. I will also check the wiring in the door to see of there is good continuity as the door swings.

BLKTOPTRVL

I've never been good at reading electrical schematics. They are a little byzantine to me, so I decided to trace out the connections from the switch to the motor and make my own diagram...



As far as I can tell, the passenger switch is getting power, the switch works as it should, the wiring between the switch and the motor is OK.

Unless I have two bad window motors, I am stumped.

Edit:

So I decided to fully install the regulator, motor and passenger switch back into the door - figuring that maybe I wasn't a good enough ground to make the window motor run.

NOTHING.

I could hear the slightest noise when the up switch was pressed and absolutely nothing when the down switch was pressed.

So, I got out the 12v probe again. I held the down button and touched the green/white power button. I had power. OK.

I then decided to touch the red terminal with the probe to be sure there was power when the button is pressed. There was a spark I was not expecting and then WOOSH, the regulator took off in the down direction. I disconnected the probe and pressed the up button. The regulator took off in the up direction. Up, down, up, down, up, down.

It is as if something inside the switch was frozen and touching the probe as I did freed it.

I am even more stumped now.

Could it be that there is carbon built up inside the switch and touching the probe to the solder point gave it the extra grounding it needed to clear the carbon?

I shouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth, but I am thinking I should take the passenger switch back out, disassemble it, and clean it.

Upshot is that I now have a working regulator as well as a spare. I will let it sit over night and see if it still works tomorrow morning.

Correction. Apparently in my drawing where I noted "up" it should say "down", and vice-versa.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

The switches can get carbon buildup and are serviceable if you are meticulous. Clean the contacts and send it.