Senna

I'm at work and don't have time to mine for info but need some advice on whether I should go ahead with a scheduled electrical diagnosis that will run me $80.00 tomorrow morning.

Problem: I've run down three batteries now. I thought possibly the second which was a yellow top (51r) was defective and replaced it with a Costco 51 about two months ago. Now the Kirkland was drained last weekend. I don't drive the car much but nevertheless it usually gets driven once every two weeks-I suspect frequent enough to keep it adequately charged.

My question is, is it advisable to spend the $80 to determine where the problem is. I don't mind spending the green if it will be worthwhile. A mechanic friend of mine suggested I just disconnect one of the terminals between drives.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

dubulup

does your alternator work?

iluvmy3rdgen

If your alternator works, Take the negative terminal off the battery (with the key off) and place a test light between the battery terminal and the cable end. If the light is on and considerably bright, then you have a short. Remove one fuse at a time until the light goes out. Once you find the circuit, it'll be easier to trace down. Start by check switches and relays in the circuit and such. Make sure the switches are switching and the relays are giving, and interupting power. It's quite easy, sometimes time consuming but simply.


If there were hoses with water and the water was a short circuit you'd be able to find it, correct? Well assume the wires are hoses and check all the "valves" (switches) and check where the hose might be "ripped" (shorted or grounded out) and fix as needed.


Also make sure all the grounds are grounded. Apply 12vdc to the test light and test each ground by placing the test light on the ground. With the battery connected the light should go on. Test grounds at relay connections and such. Hope this helps a little bit. Save the $80 and get familiar with your car.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Look at all your aftermarket electronics first - they're typically failure points for a current draw. Also, check your voltage at the battery with the car running - your alternator may be slowly dying and not putting out enough current to properly charge the battery.

Dale

mad_7tist

3rdgen is pretty close. what the shop will do is disconnect the neg terminal and put a multi meter in amp reading in series with the batt and the neg cable. if they find a draw .5amp or so they will begin pulling fuses till they find the drain goes away and then trouble shoot that system. could be as simple as the diode in the alt, or a light/realy staying on. it could also take awhile to hunt it down. dale's check takes 10 sec. and should be done first

Senna

I haven't had it tested yet. I'll try and get it down to Kragen after work. Good point-a logical first step.

Thanks.

Senna

Thanks for the feedback. And I agree with your last statement. House, wife, and two kids tends to make it hard to make time. Thanks again...