veloreum

Alright guys, I just recently purchased a 94 RX7 Touring model and I'm having some issues with overheating. I had anticipated this and have already ordered a new Radiator, FMIC, AST and looking at a new oil cooler. Just waiting on them to get here but I'd like to solve the problem first. I do have an undertray also.

During Highway driving day or night my temp gauge reads a little less than halfway up between the two white marks for low / hi. (Not the read your engine is going to blow up mark). However, when I start to drive in the city or in stop and go traffic is overheats quickly and I also get a Check Engine Light and my car goes into limp mode and I can't get any boost pressure. If I shut the car off, remove the negitive terminal and push in the brake I can get the system to reset once its cooled down a bit and get boost pressure back etc as long as I can find some long stretches of road to get airflow. I have been listening today while it happened once and I'm not hearing any fans whatsoever at any point hard driving or stop and go. I checked the relays and they are fine so it could be a wire or motor I assume. Is it possible the thermostat gauge is messed up and not sending the right signals?

I also did the test by removing the rad cap while the engine is cool and starting / reving it up to check for bubbles and I get nothing at all so I think I'm safe, hopefully. Would appreciate any insight or opinions in the matter.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Your fans aren't running? Make 100% sure that they work properly before you drive the car around town again. FWIW, when one of my fans stopped working, my around town temps were quite a bit higher (220-230 degF VS 200-210 degF) About the CEL and limp mode.... I defer to someone else with more experience. Good luck.

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

Fan test:
http://www.fd3s.net/fan_test.html

Note that since you have a 94, your fans may come during the test without having the key set to "On".

CEL codes:
http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

You may find more code info by searching the forum.

Gadd

Another 3rd Gen in Chico?? That's it I'm selling mine................................

You've got the right attitude, make sure you car is running 100% and do your research before you start throwing parts at the car, it will save you lots of headaces when you start modding the car.

Check for engine codes, There are three coolant temp senders on the car, one for the temp gauge one for the ecu (the ecu will turn the fans on) and one for the fans only. You'll need to touble shoot the fan wiring. but in the mean time if you know the relays are ok, you can ground the #2 or #3 relay and the fans will run continuously. Let me know if I can help.
http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

i know how you can fix your overheating "SELL ME THE CAR". problem fixed

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

Oh, I hope it is not Silverstone! Looks like you got the car just in time for excessive high temperature testing. It does sound like your fans are not running properly. I have a mechanical temp. gauge (you should get one too), when it was 115 last week, I saw 220 F going home from Orland to Corning on I-5 @ 80 with the ac on full blast.
I've also done the fan mod (ground the fan wire behind the ecu to manually turn on the fans - I put a second foglight switch in for this). When I'm running around downtown, I manually switch on the fans to keep things cool.
I'm running the stock radiator w/water wetter and have never had any problems: boost @ 12psi, all of the boltons, drive like a fool, and have done a couple of track days at Thunderhill, and have never had problems. If you need some help, drop me a pm, I'm in Corning!

veloreum

Since the car has been overheating and I've been getting a CEL and losing boost pressure I'm always somewhere I don't have a wire to ground the Diagnosis box or a pen/paper. However on the way back from the dealership and with good timing it came on as I was making the final turn into my driveway.

When I stopped and shut the engine off the coolant was boiling out of the reserve tank. So I got some wire, bridged the "GND/TEN" and started counting flashes.

I counted the following (Let me know if I screwed up the numbers)

First set was 2 long flashes followed by 7 short flashes. (27)
Second was just 4 long flashes (Assuming that means 40)

So 27 is the Metering Oil Pump and 40 is the Solenoid valve - purge control (auxilary port valve). I am still fairly unfamiliar with the rotary engine cooling system, would either of these directly attribute to my overheating issue?

Wilberforce

ive just over come a load of over heating problems, second stage fan speed wasn't kicking it, thermostat was sticking

ran fine for a bit......

little plastic pipe on the thermostat housing was cracked so the system wasnt pressurising over heating again, fixed pipe all ok again now! well from a cooling point of view, the "to do" list is still pretty big!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

neither of those would be attributed to the overheating issue but the OMP code would be why the car is going into limp mode, the OMP will need to be tested to see if it is good, also check the wiring in the harness for the OMP to make sure it isn't chafing or cracked anywhere.