Overhauling the 7 and rebuilding
Overhauling the 7 and rebuilding
Does anyone know of a good overhaul/rebuild kit for a 7 i been looking all over the web for a complete rebuild kit.. who makes the kits HKS, APEXI and where can i find one? Also does anyone know where i can download a shop manual or something also??
Thanks
jon
Thanks
jon
You can just buy the parts that are out of spec from Mazda or Hurley or whomever, or you can buy a whole big kit. www.rotaryaviation.com has pretty good prices. Hurley is thought to make some of the best apex seals (next to the ianetti ceramics).
You can get the shop manual from www.iluvmyrx7.com or www.scuderiaciriani.com
You can get the shop manual from www.iluvmyrx7.com or www.scuderiaciriani.com
Recovering Milkaholic
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Damn Danny.. Your good. Nopistons members hard at work..
I agree with p'cola except. The stock 3 piece 2 mm apex seals are the best you are gonna find. I know of a certain Fd that runs 30psi on stock 2mm and has yet to break one. So that is proof positive if you ask me. If your's pass the inspect procedure in the manual. Then I would say to just reuse your old ones. Then don't wear out. They break or they do not. Make sure to inspect them really well though. For bowing or sm cracks.
Malloy Mazda in Woodbridge , Virginia has really good pricing also. I don't know if they ship or not though. Ask for Ray if you were to call them. He is a parts manager and drives a fd so he would set you up right.
I agree with p'cola except. The stock 3 piece 2 mm apex seals are the best you are gonna find. I know of a certain Fd that runs 30psi on stock 2mm and has yet to break one. So that is proof positive if you ask me. If your's pass the inspect procedure in the manual. Then I would say to just reuse your old ones. Then don't wear out. They break or they do not. Make sure to inspect them really well though. For bowing or sm cracks.
Malloy Mazda in Woodbridge , Virginia has really good pricing also. I don't know if they ship or not though. Ask for Ray if you were to call them. He is a parts manager and drives a fd so he would set you up right.
I plan on using mazda 3 piece, or hurley 2 peice seals when the time comes for me to rebuild. The price of the ceramic seals do not justify their advantages, unless someone is building an all out, no bullshit racecar.
Why are you looking for a rebuild kit? Are you planning on rebuilding one yourself? If so, then you have a whole lot of homework to do.
Why are you looking for a rebuild kit? Are you planning on rebuilding one yourself? If so, then you have a whole lot of homework to do.
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Hmmm, it sounds like you don't know much about rebuiliding. While relatively simple in terms of the parts, rotaries can be difficult without some special tools and knowledge. Totally different than a piston engine.
Before you even think of looking for the parts you should order two videos from Bruce Turrentine, one deals with R&R and the other with the actual rebuild.
I think they are $19.85 each from him including shipping, about $25.00 from others plus shipping. They are all the same videos. Contact him at Bruce1071@aol.com. He accepts Paypal. He's a great guy.
BTW, I would wager he has rebuilt more rotaries over the years than anyone, period. He is a true expert, and his advice on the tapes is invaluable to ANY rebuilder.
Rotary Aviation's kits are by FAR the least expensive, and they come with teflon encapsulated O rings for the water jacket seal. Stay with stock 2mm seals.
Before you even think of looking for the parts you should order two videos from Bruce Turrentine, one deals with R&R and the other with the actual rebuild.
I think they are $19.85 each from him including shipping, about $25.00 from others plus shipping. They are all the same videos. Contact him at Bruce1071@aol.com. He accepts Paypal. He's a great guy.
BTW, I would wager he has rebuilt more rotaries over the years than anyone, period. He is a true expert, and his advice on the tapes is invaluable to ANY rebuilder.
Rotary Aviation's kits are by FAR the least expensive, and they come with teflon encapsulated O rings for the water jacket seal. Stay with stock 2mm seals.
Last edited by RonKMiller; Nov 5, 2002 at 09:16 AM.
www.rotaryaviation.com
The have the "master" kit for like $900.
I have the R+R and 13B rebuild video they sell too. Pretty good if you don't know anything about the project.
The have the "master" kit for like $900.
I have the R+R and 13B rebuild video they sell too. Pretty good if you don't know anything about the project.
Originally posted by vudoodoodoo
www.rotaryaviation.com
The have the "master" kit for like $900.
I have the R+R and 13B rebuild video they sell too. Pretty good if you don't know anything about the project.
www.rotaryaviation.com
The have the "master" kit for like $900.
I have the R+R and 13B rebuild video they sell too. Pretty good if you don't know anything about the project.
Here is a quick parts list of a rebuild kit.
Parts you will need:
Fuel Grommet, Secondary
Fuel Grommet, Primary
Corner Seal Rubber Plugs
Oil Control O-rings - Inner
Oil Control O-rings - Outer
Water O-rings - Inner
Water O-rings - Outer
Dowel Pin O-rings
Rear Stationary Gear Seal
Rear Main Seal
Front Housing O-ring
Oil Filter Pipe Gasket
Tension Bolt Washer
Front Oil Cover O-ring
Front Cover Gasket
Oil Pan Gasket
Front Main Oil Seal
Pilot Bearing
Pilot Bearing Oil Seal
Fuel Injector upper O-ring
Fuel Injector lower O-ring
Oil Metering Pump O-ring
Oil Filter Pedestal O-ring
Oil Strainer Gasket
Rear Water Housing Gasket
Water Pump Gasket
Parts You May Need to Replace:
Apex Seal (3 piece)
Inner Apex Seal Spring
Outer Apex Seal Spring
Side Seal Spring
Corner Seal w/ Plug
Corner Seal Spring
Front Oil Seal Spring - Inner
Front Oil Seal Spring - Outer
Rear Oil Seal Spring - Inner
Rear Oil Seal Spring - Outer
Side Seal
Air Bleed Socket, Secondary
Air Bleed Socket, Primary
This is an incomplete list since I've left out parts like the washer for the engine block plug (where the coolant is drained) and the "mid" washer for the 18th tension bolt. Also this list is for the short block only. Long block may include parts such as exhaust manifold gaskets, LIM gaskets, UIM gaskets, throttle body gaskets, etc. Also do not to forget during this process if you have not done the silicon hose upgrade that will cost extra. If you break any solenoids that will cost extra. Various oils, gasket dressing, engine cleaners, etc. (i.e. hylomar, RTV, locktite, MMO, brake cleaner, engine degreaser) will cost extra. In addition, this assumes you have good condition rotors, side housings, exhaust housings, good bearings, eccentric shaft, front cover, OMP, etcs. All those parts will cost extra.
Attached is a quick excel spreadsheet with the parts listed above with their corresponding parts number, quantity and microfiche number and microfiche "name." I have not checked to see if the quantity is correct so use it at your own risk
. Also some parts number have been updated by Mazda (the parts numbers listed only correspond to the 1993 microfiche and some have changed - the oil control rings for one have changed).
The video by Bruce is extremely helpful if it is your first time in rebuilding an engine and I highly recommend this to anyone who has thought about rebuilding their own engine. This is not rocket science but is not as simple as taking apart your BIC pen and putting it back together. You will learn alot about a rotary engine during this process (more than you will want to know). You will finally understand how it works (and what an apex seal really is)
. It's amazing the first time you rotate a rotor within the exhaust housing and see how it moves in an elliptical motion and still fits in there
. An air compressor and air tools make life a lot easier. An engine hoist is recommended. Good luck because you will need it
.
Parts you will need:
Fuel Grommet, Secondary
Fuel Grommet, Primary
Corner Seal Rubber Plugs
Oil Control O-rings - Inner
Oil Control O-rings - Outer
Water O-rings - Inner
Water O-rings - Outer
Dowel Pin O-rings
Rear Stationary Gear Seal
Rear Main Seal
Front Housing O-ring
Oil Filter Pipe Gasket
Tension Bolt Washer
Front Oil Cover O-ring
Front Cover Gasket
Oil Pan Gasket
Front Main Oil Seal
Pilot Bearing
Pilot Bearing Oil Seal
Fuel Injector upper O-ring
Fuel Injector lower O-ring
Oil Metering Pump O-ring
Oil Filter Pedestal O-ring
Oil Strainer Gasket
Rear Water Housing Gasket
Water Pump Gasket
Parts You May Need to Replace:
Apex Seal (3 piece)
Inner Apex Seal Spring
Outer Apex Seal Spring
Side Seal Spring
Corner Seal w/ Plug
Corner Seal Spring
Front Oil Seal Spring - Inner
Front Oil Seal Spring - Outer
Rear Oil Seal Spring - Inner
Rear Oil Seal Spring - Outer
Side Seal
Air Bleed Socket, Secondary
Air Bleed Socket, Primary
This is an incomplete list since I've left out parts like the washer for the engine block plug (where the coolant is drained) and the "mid" washer for the 18th tension bolt. Also this list is for the short block only. Long block may include parts such as exhaust manifold gaskets, LIM gaskets, UIM gaskets, throttle body gaskets, etc. Also do not to forget during this process if you have not done the silicon hose upgrade that will cost extra. If you break any solenoids that will cost extra. Various oils, gasket dressing, engine cleaners, etc. (i.e. hylomar, RTV, locktite, MMO, brake cleaner, engine degreaser) will cost extra. In addition, this assumes you have good condition rotors, side housings, exhaust housings, good bearings, eccentric shaft, front cover, OMP, etcs. All those parts will cost extra.
Attached is a quick excel spreadsheet with the parts listed above with their corresponding parts number, quantity and microfiche number and microfiche "name." I have not checked to see if the quantity is correct so use it at your own risk
. Also some parts number have been updated by Mazda (the parts numbers listed only correspond to the 1993 microfiche and some have changed - the oil control rings for one have changed).The video by Bruce is extremely helpful if it is your first time in rebuilding an engine and I highly recommend this to anyone who has thought about rebuilding their own engine. This is not rocket science but is not as simple as taking apart your BIC pen and putting it back together. You will learn alot about a rotary engine during this process (more than you will want to know). You will finally understand how it works (and what an apex seal really is)
. It's amazing the first time you rotate a rotor within the exhaust housing and see how it moves in an elliptical motion and still fits in there
. An air compressor and air tools make life a lot easier. An engine hoist is recommended. Good luck because you will need it
.
I forgot to mention in my previous post. Corner seals already come with the corner seal plug so you will not have to order both if you already ordered the corner seal itself.
While you already have your engine out you might as well fix or "upgrade" your transmission. You will need the shift select spindle (for the upgrade) and its corresponding gasket and the 5th gear syncho (for the "fix"). You may also need a new throwout bearing.
Oh yeah, if you are planning on doing any kind of porting (intake and exhaust port) or port matching (UIM to LIM or LIM to the housing), carbide bits, sandpaper drums, sandpaper and etc will cost extra. Aluminum oxide bits are okay but begin to get "clogged" very easily. Good luck and Godspeed
.
While you already have your engine out you might as well fix or "upgrade" your transmission. You will need the shift select spindle (for the upgrade) and its corresponding gasket and the 5th gear syncho (for the "fix"). You may also need a new throwout bearing.
Oh yeah, if you are planning on doing any kind of porting (intake and exhaust port) or port matching (UIM to LIM or LIM to the housing), carbide bits, sandpaper drums, sandpaper and etc will cost extra. Aluminum oxide bits are okay but begin to get "clogged" very easily. Good luck and Godspeed
.
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